Technical Magnesium Wheel Corrosion?

So, I just picked up a pair of 15x4 magnesium wheels. Like all old things, they have their issues - and when it comes to magnesium in these sizes, beggers can't be choosers. In the end, I'm just lucky that I have them.

The wheels have corrosion at the inner lip where the bead seats. My understanding that this corrosion is pretty common as not much care was taken back in the day not to use liquid when when mounting tires to the wheels. Yet, I have not found one post discussing it. Is this kind of discussion "taboo" in the magnesium world?

Anyone experience this issue before? What was your remedy?

Should I just run some tubes and call it a day?

Thanks!

 

I wonder if you could use JB Weld to fill those? Just a thought.

 

Mag wheels where not made to last 50 years either. Halibrands were painted with epoxy right out of the factory. Stand wayyyyy back when you air them up as the wheel lip could be compromised and break during inflation

 

Air them up. If they leak, put a little sealer there, I've used silicone, but I don't know if it's compatible with magnesium.

Sent from my LG-TP450 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Good gawd man, show us the rest of the wheel!

 

Thanks for the replies guys!

Akoutlaw:
I thought about some fillers, specifically all metal but, would hate to place something on them that would only lead to more corrosion.

Dreracecar:
I don't think that the corrosion is necessarily that bad. Looks like .100 or less at the deepest.

Terrible80:
That's what my buddy said! Definitely a consideration as it's easily removed.

DDDeny:
LOL! Here you go... I always wanted a pair of 15x4 lemans! These ones are in chevy pattern too so, I'm beyond happy to have them!

I've also thought about chuckin em up in the lathe and clean it up with some emery cloth but, wasn't sure if that would be the best route. Figured I'd reach out to the HAMB first. Surely someone with magnesium wheels has experienced this issue before. Hopefully they will chime in.

 

I can't give any advice on the strength of the wheel, but I can say you will want to use tubes. Even of there were no corrosion pits you would want tubes. The magnesium seems to be pourous and let the air out gradually.

 

I would never buy a mag wheel without seeing the inner mounting surface. Those are nasty. Now that you have them run tubes. Check to see that the stem fits the rim first. Drilling larger may be required.

 

Don't do any sanding on the inside of the wheel, especially anything that will change the diameter of the rim where the tire sits.

If you think you need to put a coating on the wheel, you need to make sure they are absolutely clean and then coat them immediately. I've listened to guys tell stories of clearcoating their wheels and then a year later they have small worm paths under the coating where the corrosion has eaten. They either didn't have them completely clean, or waited too long before coating (how long is too long?). Probably looks similar to the worm paths on your wheel.

 

Those are a tad rare, when you saw them on the gas class cars of the 60's you knew it was a serious race car, not often seen on street cars.

 

Mag. is a highly reactive metal. Seems someone bolstered the output of their woodstove (so the tale goes) w/VW engine blocks.

 

Alchemy:
That's what I've been told. I've always assumed that they hold pressure just like any other wheel. Lol!

Racer-x:
I was made very aware of their condition at the time of purchase; the seller was very informative and straightforward about their condition. Unfortunately, these wheels have been very hard to come by, especially in chevy pattern. I feel fortunate to own them. Besides, I feel like I got a fair deal on them. I'd hate to drill for the stem but, it is what it is I suppose! Lol

 

Mount the tires dry. I take my wheels off the car during the off season. They go in the house were its dry. Moisture is the killer. You cant stop the corrosion only slow it down. I have all my wheels polished just for this reason. They require constant upkeep.

 

The wheels are not throw always by any means. Sure there is some corrosion but it's a usable wheel. You can try to mount them without tubes. Worst thing is they leak. Then put in tubes. What style of wheel are they?

 

Alchemy:
I'll take your advice on that! I thought about a coating on the inner portion of the wheel however, my fear is more corrosion, like you stated. Surprisingly, the exterior of them are in great shape.

DDDenny:
That's awesome to hear! Not sure why but, I have grown to like these a lot more than the round spokes. They look muck more "aggresive" to me..

Racer-X:
Any special care taken to protect the inner portion of the wheel? Or do those stay pretty dry with the tubes?

 

That's reassuring! Not gonna lie, got a little worried when Dreracecar said air them up and stand waaaaay back! lol They are 15x4 Lemans, in chevy pattern.

 

The only thing that protects mag is Dow-7 coating. It turns the mag a golden color. Even with that it's not a permanent fix. Regardless of what's put on it's still going to corrode from underneath the coating. Its only a matter of time. I mount mine without any coatings; sealers; paint or water. It works for me.

 

Those are tube style wheels. The tubeless type have the air fill between the spokes, tube type are facing out like yours. I have never seen Lemans style made in the tubeless type. Personally I would brush on a thick coat of rustoleum primer on that pitting. If your afraid of them, get them Xrayed first.

 

If you know a mechanic that works in the aviation industry they can check for cracks. I have heard but dont know for sure that it takes a special machine to mana flux aluminum and mag. I knew a racer who brought all his parts to work for inspection. Mag wheels are actually strong. If they are bad it should be obvious. I have been running them for years on the track and the street covering thousands of miles on midwest rough roads.

 

Bowie:
Interesting in regards to tubes and placement of the valve stem. Never knew that!
Do you think that the rustoleum primer will generate further corrosion due to the moisture in the paint when applied?

Racer-X:
Thank you for the info! I think I may me over thinking it. My other wheels have no issues so, this was something I really wanted to look into.

I find it crazy that this type of corrosion is so common with these old wheels yet, not widely talked about. Surely someone has to be running ones with similar issues, if not worse.

 

Use Gibbs brand penetrating oil ,( was developed for NASA ) used several applications after setting between coatings , it will moisten ( like lotion for skin ) into the Magnesium ,
But will not fix pits
W--D 40 was originally developed for military use but over the lat 20 years ingredients has changed, not as good

 

I have a couple that had similar pitting, that the rustolium looks the same now; as when it was put on about 30 years ago. That’s a nice looking pair you’ve got!

 

19eddy30:
Thanks for the tip. I have read great things about that spray so, I took the plunge and bought a couple cans.

Bowie:
Thanks! Overall, I think they are in great shape.. Can't wait to mount them up!
Which product in particular did you use? I see that there is the "rusty metal" "clean metal" and "aluminum" latex primer.

 

I don't imagine that it is taboo but you may have to use bead sealer to get tires to run tubeless.

I would run 'em and never look back.

 

Mag is porous. Always use tubes, even on brand new mag wheels. Dow 7 only works on virgin magnesium. And it's not a sealer anyway.

 

I think the process for checking nonferrous items is Zyglo, a dye/penetrant with developer deal. Magnaflux can only be used on materials the will sustain a magnetic field and mag won't do that.

My information may be a little old. If so, pretend I didn't say anything.

 

Here is the warning page that came with New Halibrand Magnesium wheels, and we were sure they went out with every wheel sold, Soap is a BIG NO-NO. Frank

 

Dye testing is still a viable way to check for cracks. Actually for the home mechanic it is the most affordable way to get the job done. Some of the more modern kits (they run less that a Benjamin) are really sensitive and use a black light to test for cracks. I think that a dye test kits should be part of everyone's tool kit of they are going to be the one turning the wrenches.

 

"I don't think that the corrosion is necessarily that bad"
Famous last words ! not saying it will or will not, just be careful

 

Op those wheel you do not see that much, kida rare like DDDDenny said , I looked for a pair of 15x4 for a few yrs , Dow7 like Dean Lowe said