New ball joints, 55 Chevy. The nut tightens up a little high for a good lock with the cotter pin. I read where I could bend the cotter pin up a little to get it more in the slot but what about adding a washer as a spacer? What's the solution?
If it was a quality ball joint use a washer. Downside might be if it is still a little loose and down the road it gets more loose. Both sides fit the same?
Yup, same. Funny I talked to a buddy yesterday that had the same problem with different ball joints. He re-drilled his holes but I'm not wanting to go that route. The ball-joint fits fine the hole in the shaft is a bit farther from the slot then I'd like.
There are half-height and full-height castellated nuts available at most auto parts stores. If the full-height one is still too short you can use a hardened washer as a last resort.
Didn't know that, thanks. A little more is all I need. It's in the slot just not as much as I'd like.
Wouldn't hesitate to put a washer under the nut. Just get a good washer, (grade 8) and not a typical soft washer.
The position of the cotter key is not as important as everyone thinks. Most people are disturbed to know how little torque it takes to shear one off and back the nut off. You can always Loc-Tite the nut if it will make you feel better.
Yes, you can shim the nut with a washer to get the proper positioning of the nut. In the aviation world we do it all the time. If you are worried about the cotter key shearing, get a stainless steel cotter pin. Just make sure that you the proper size cotter key in the hole. Mark
For my money proper torque is what seats the taper AND holds it all together with preload and drastically reduces the chance of fatigue in the stud threads. The Cotter pin or prevailing torque locknut just makes it a little more failsafe //if// the nut should loosen, buying some time preventing the nut from winding right off in a mile or so as the loose stud rattles and bangs around. I'd hesitate to use a lockwasher there (or practically anywhere) as they chew things up a lot, making it easier for the nut to embed and the fastener to lose preload.
Cotter pins are a fail safe, if you correctly torque the nut it won't loosen in a million years, the cotter pin is there for the second million years. as long as the pin is there to keep the nut from falling on the ground all is good. chopped, you are over thinking it, kick back and have a brew. (or two) saltflats, a self locking nut will do, but the cotter pin is a visual reference that all is good.
Self locking nuts on a tapered stud may not be such a great idea. The reason being, because of the turning resistance of the self lockers, you would first have to seat the taper with a regular nut first, then remove it and install the SL nut...and hope the taper retains it's grip while you tighten the SL nut. Then, when removing it for maintenance or replacement of the steering joint, you hope it comes off first before the taper releases it's grip. Not a major issue, but something to think about.....
Most late model car use self locking nuts I guess it cuts down on another process the UAW guys dont have to do.
Now that you mention that, I think I've seen them. I seem to recall the studs have a hex shaped tip that allows holding the stud while the nut is tightened.
I was misinformed from the tech of the manufacturer of the tie rod ends for my truck. The torque is 60lbs in the Factory Assembly Manual. However, the tech said 74lbs. Now the castle nut is almost past the hole and the pins installed would seem pointless. Where do I go from here?
Back in the late 80's, I bought a ball joint or tie rod end from Big A Auto Parts. The instructions in the box said to reuse the old cotter pin. I couldn't believe my eyes, that’s one time I didn't follow the instructions. Just noticed that this thread is 5 years old. Oh, well. Lol.
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