Technical 250-6 cyl into 61 Chevy Biscayne

I've got a 61 Biscayne with a tired 235 stove bolt motor and a slipping iron powerglide. I've scored a 67 250/aluminum glide for next to nothing (from a Malibu) that is fresh. I've had a lot of experience with 194-230-250 series engines. I don't want to do another SBC crate swap. I was curious about a couple of key hurdles, and see if anyone can chime in with some wisdom?

-Frame to motor mount spacers, difference between the later 250 and existing 235? Overall engine mounting (they put the later 230's in the X-Frame cars starting in 63)

-Trans mount/crossmember?

-Big thing, Driveshaft length? (Has the two-piece shaft, but with new U-Joints and new center support bearing.

ANY basic guidance would be appreciated. Thanks all!

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I would use the factory steel brackets that bolt to the block, and the original 58-64 mount brackets for a small block to bolt to the frame, for a 63-64 car. The engine brackets were also used on stuff like 63-72 trucks with the 230 or 250, and the frame brackets were used on V8 equipped 58-64 cars.

driveshaft will probably need to be shortened, and might need a fine spline yoke.

 

Thanks Squirrel, great info....

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The engine stands should be the same as the X-Frame cars that used the later style 194-215-230-250-292 sixes. Bolt or weld the stands in, get the correct motor mounts, and you're done. However, the X-Frame cars also used a 25 inch long Powerglide (both the cast iron and aluminum cased Powerglide were 25 inches long); the other cars/trucks used 28 inch long Powerglides (there is a rare, big truck Powerglide that is 32 inches long; have never seen one of those myself). You need to shorten your front driveshaft 3 inches to use a 28 inch long trans. Transmission mounts are in the same place for all of them. Time to hit the wrecking yards or after market sources; start with Eckler's. Depeneding on the year of thew aluminum Powerglide, you may also have to swap to a different yoke; your yoke is a course spline, aluminum Powerglides after 64 (I think that's the year) switched to a fine spline yoke.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery

Look's like squirrel was typing just a little bit faster than I was.

 

Thanks a ton, I had zero idea they made aluminum glides in different lengths....

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I think the front part of a 4 speed drive shaft will work. Probably easier and cheaper to get your shortened.

 

As they said it should be a bolt in with the 63/64 mounts, throw in the 63/64 throttle linkage and you are home free.

 

I think you are correct, and I also think that some 3 speed manual ones will work.

 

^^^Correct^^^. As long as it's a stock 3 speed manual; anything with an overdrive unit, or a 4 speed, and the front shaft has to be shortened, and possibly a different slip yoke used. If you can find the front half of a 3 speed manual car ,or Powerglide equipped car , will also get you there. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

these days it's kind of hard to find good used drive shafts out of early 60s cars, but it's pretty easy to find the right yoke for a later transmission, and get the shaft you have, cut and balanced.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions fellas. I'll be hunting for some frame spacers and throttle linkage. I'll for sure have the shaft cut/balanced. Thanks again!

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The cooling fan will set lower on the 250, so you may have to play with radiator hight and hoses. The 250 is slightly longer to.

 

Got the motor and trans picked up, looks as good as advertised. Bagged a set of 63/64 Frame stands and motor mounts for a 230 Full Size Car. (Score). Only issue is, the trans is an air cooled glide (useless)...

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the good thing is many other transmissions will work to replace the PG. Way more options than with the 235

 

And all of them a better option than the PG.

 

boy, did we celebrate when the turbo 350 replaced the powerglide!

 

That's what I'm thinking, TH350's are belly buttons, but those sixes love that extra gear...its just too easy not too...

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The new engine is home, test fired it yesterday. No knocks, taps, and 25 psi oil pressure at idle. I think with some fresh gaskets, and some odds and ends we will be good to go!

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IF the engine came from a Chevy II/Nova (62-67), you may have to swap oil pans. Chevy II/Nova up until 67 were front sump oil pans (can't see enough in your photo), all other cars/trucks were rear sump. The air cooled Glide will be fine, especially if it still has the converter with a vane on it, and the "turbine" housing (takes place of the inspection cover). Or, you can just remove the fluid line plugs and connect up to the radiator cooler. There is "supposed" to have a bypass valve installed in the front pump, but the air cooled ones I've used in the past worked fine just by connecting a cooler up. We used an air cooled Glide in my 51 Business Coupe, and with a slightly higher stall speed converter, and never a problem; believe me, we "challenged" that often. Car had a mildly built 350 engine also. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

the short aluminum PGs with the coarse splines also have a rear pump allowing for push starts,but it's driven by a pin about the size [and strength] of a pop rivet-it won't take too much abuse

 

Swapping in the 250 is a great idea!! I think if it is not TOO trouble, use that PG. If you run into any more than small issues, upgrade to the TH350. This is of course, my opinion...
After you regasket the engine, you ARE going to paint it, correct?

 

That 250 should haul it down the road well. Its blasphemy, but a 700r4 behind it would be pretty cool, Ive never seen one. That low first gear and OD would make for a real nice driver.

 

After coding the casting numbers and buying the engine from the guy who pulled it himself, it is a 230 out of a 64 Chevy Malibu. I've made my mind up on running a TH350, and of course, the engine will get fresh gaskets, and a thorough detailing and painting. That little 6 banger fired off on the first turn, sounded great!

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...those 250's are diehard engines, should make a fine driver...wish I could find a decent 60-62 Biscayne/Bel Air,..I'd do the same as you're doing....someone may want the P'glide,,,

 

I would inspect the timing gears and replace if questionable. I would also replace the oil pump (stock-volume should be fine). Maybe a hotter cam to give it a little more ooommph? Not wild, but like an "RV"-type cam.

 

Check the distributor shaft for wear on the upper end. They like to wear there, and will drive you nuts with dwell variation.

 

The plan is to take the head off and make the seats aren't knocked out of it. I thought about oil pump, and all new gaskets, water pump, HEI swap, new flexplate (existing one is bent), new balancer (rubber coming out of mine), and new seals and gaskets. Sounds like a lot, but parts are cheap!

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I LOVE the six in my GMC. 250 with Langdons carbs and split cast manifolds. Can't get enough of the sound.

 

The added bonus is going to be seeing who figures out that you even changed anything. Even some of the self style Chevy experts may miss that one.

 

nice, i have 250 in my avatar..!!