I have a 31 Ford on a pinched aftermarket 1932 frame with boxed rails. Bought it as uncompleted project. I hope to do some cross-country cruising (all of Route 66) in this car and some test and tune at the local drag strip. The car came with a 307, which I pulled; now I’m going back in with a hot 350. I pulled the old motor with the fuel pump installed and just put the new motor in with the fuel pump installed. I wanted to stay mechanical pump for long term reliability. Well, now that the motor is back in, you can’t get a playing card between the fuel pump and the inside of the frame rail! I just tried to remove the pump and there isn’t room to do it. So, motor is coming back out. It looks like I’m gonna have to yank the motor to service this simple item, and that’s gonna eat away at me... Probably easier to carry a spare electric pump with me than to yank a motor on the side of the highway... I wanted to know if I’m always gonna have to pull the motor in order to replace the fuel pump? If so, I might as well go to an electric pump! What have other 1932 Ford owners experienced with this? Is this just something I need to accept?
That style Fuel pump Holly the big one , Will not work unless you notch the frame, Especially if frame is boxed . Install Stock style big block 1967 427 Dual / tri carb , good for around 500 hp or any sb/bb With just inlet and outlet, if you go to advance auto or AutoZone etc. lot of mechanical fuel pump on the shelf the diaphragms are dry rotted so use a good aftermarket or ac delco
I saw a '32 chassis ('29 Hiboy) with SBC, frame was close at fuel pump. There was a patch of the frame neatly cut out of the top flange, (like the masking tape patch in photo #1) but with a neat hinge at the outer corner. Looked 'Factory'! Frame was partially boxed, very professional job. But, ??? Seen at Eagle Field, 3 yrs ago...
Go get a stock 15 dollar pump from orielly it will be about an inch smaller on diameter I believe , I ran into clearance problems on those rebuildable type pumps before
I like to use the smaller stamped steel version pump with the threaded outlet and hose barb inlet pointing forward. It's easier to find on the road, cheaper and more compact than the bigger after market pumps.
As stated use the fits all crimped design pump and all will be well . I ran into this years ago , I fixed the issue by yanking the SBC and installing a SBF !
as others have said , use a stock mechanical pump. put that electric back by the fuel tank with a switch so you can use it as needed
>>> It looks like I’m gonna have to yank the motor to service this simple item, and that’s gonna eat away at me...>>> Nah. Just take the nuts off the front mounts, jack it up a bit, and replace the pump if/when it ever fails. Jack E/NJ
I would machine a small amount off the edge of the pump for clearance [frame] and roll with it ,as said pick the mill up a bit for repairs.
My roadster chassis is pinched 3/4"/side, no problems with AC Delco fuel pump clearing but my alternator required a notch in the frame, not that hard to do and it doesn't show from the outside. Yours would be easier yet if a piece of round tubing was sectioned in.
Thanks fellas-perfect replies and very helpful. I went to the stamped steel pump as recommended and I’m in business-I can remove the pump without difficulty. Seems my motor sits lower in chassis than the Helmuth Coupe (beautiful car). I hate that forward facing input nipple, but I gotta live with it. I guess I will just run the line from the tank forward past the pump and try to put a smooth 180-degree bend in it to a rubber line. Dino64-is that an aluminum fuel line from the pump to the carb? Can you share with me how (what fittings) to make up a line like that for mine? I’d like to avoid a long rubber hose in that area.
I know it's not period correct but I see nothing wrong with an electrical fuel pump and if you buy a good one they are very reliable.
Those appear to be Jic fittings , very much like a/n fitting, anyone who sells hydraulic fittings should have them ..or you could use inverted flare fitting like OEM did...
This pic of Frame , the builder made the frame mount higher them most use , majority of A frame & 32 for SBC frame mount is level with the top of the frame ,, Jic fittings are also called A/N ( Army navy ) Most of your Russell , Aeroquip Earls are Jic A/N