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Technical Sbc mechanical fuel pump in 1932 frame

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Choppedcoupe, Jan 20, 2019.

  1. Choppedcoupe
    Joined: Oct 17, 2016
    Posts: 211

    Choppedcoupe
    Member

    I have a 31 Ford on a pinched aftermarket 1932 frame with boxed rails. Bought it as uncompleted project. I hope to do some cross-country cruising (all of Route 66) in this car and some test and tune at the local drag strip. The car came with a 307, which I pulled; now I’m going back in with a hot 350. I pulled the old motor with the fuel pump installed and just put the new motor in with the fuel pump installed. I wanted to stay mechanical pump for long term reliability. Well, now that the motor is back in, you can’t get a playing card between the fuel pump and the inside of the frame rail! I just tried to remove the pump and there isn’t room to do it. So, motor is coming back out. It looks like I’m gonna have to yank the motor to service this simple item, and that’s gonna eat away at me...

    Probably easier to carry a spare electric pump with me than to yank a motor on the side of the highway...

    I wanted to know if I’m always gonna have to pull the motor in order to replace the fuel pump? If so, I might as well go to an electric pump! What have other 1932 Ford owners experienced with this? Is this just something I need to accept?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 2,320

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    That style Fuel pump Holly the big one , Will not work unless you notch the frame, Especially if frame is boxed . Install Stock style big block 1967 427 Dual / tri carb , good for around 500 hp or any sb/bb
    With just inlet and outlet, if you go to advance auto or AutoZone etc. lot of mechanical fuel pump on the shelf the diaphragms are dry rotted so use a good aftermarket or ac delco
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2019
  3. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,408

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Who made the chassis ? Which pump are you using ?
     
  4. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,408

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    93BFDAB7-8E91-4513-96CE-CF6EA27F1C1B.jpeg 4CEE7EF2-4ED4-4CA8-AFDC-A0848F888065.jpeg Pic of the Helmuth coupe with a Pete&Jakes chassis and not sure which pump
     
    LOU WELLS and Just Gary like this.

  5. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    I saw a '32 chassis ('29 Hiboy) with SBC, frame was close at fuel pump. There was a patch of the frame neatly cut out of the top flange, (like the masking tape patch in photo #1) but with a neat hinge at the outer corner. Looked 'Factory'! Frame was partially boxed, very professional job. But, ???
    Seen at Eagle Field, 3 yrs ago...
     
  6. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,639

    thirtytwo
    Member

    Go get a stock 15 dollar pump from orielly it will be about an inch smaller on diameter I believe , I ran into clearance problems on those rebuildable type pumps before
     
    Dino 64 and 36-3window like this.
  7. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,472

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    I like to use the smaller stamped steel version pump with the threaded outlet and hose barb inlet pointing forward. It's easier to find on the road, cheaper and more compact than the bigger after market pumps.
     
    beater32 likes this.
  8. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 3,554

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    As stated use the fits all crimped design pump and all will be well . I ran into this years ago , I fixed the issue by yanking the SBC and installing a SBF !
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. as others have said , use a stock mechanical pump. put that electric back by the fuel tank with a switch so you can use it as needed
     
    LOU WELLS, pprather and Dino 64 like this.
  10. Jack E/NJ
    Joined: Mar 5, 2011
    Posts: 839

    Jack E/NJ
    Member
    from NJ

    >>> It looks like I’m gonna have to yank the motor to service this simple item, and that’s gonna eat away at me...>>>

    Nah. Just take the nuts off the front mounts, jack it up a bit, and replace the pump if/when it ever fails. Jack E/NJ
     
  11. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 3,554

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    No need to yank the motor ! Raise it a bit and all will be well .
     
    Blade58 likes this.
  12. lumpy 63
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 2,607

    lumpy 63
    Member

    I put a small contoured notch in the top of my frame rail . 29 roadster on pinched 32 chassis.
     
  13. harpo1313
    Joined: Jan 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,586

    harpo1313
    Member
    from wareham,ma

    I would machine a small amount off the edge of the pump for clearance [frame] and roll with it ,as said pick the mill up a bit for repairs.
     
  14. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,265

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    My roadster chassis is pinched 3/4"/side, no problems with AC Delco fuel pump clearing but my alternator required a notch in the frame, not that hard to do and it doesn't show from the outside.
    Yours would be easier yet if a piece of round tubing was sectioned in.
    20161107_010143.jpg
     
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  15. Choppedcoupe
    Joined: Oct 17, 2016
    Posts: 211

    Choppedcoupe
    Member

    Thanks fellas-perfect replies and very helpful. I went to the stamped steel pump as recommended and I’m in business-I can remove the pump without difficulty. Seems my motor sits lower in chassis than the Helmuth Coupe (beautiful car). I hate that forward facing input nipple, but I gotta live with it. I guess I will just run the line from the tank forward past the pump and try to put a smooth 180-degree bend in it to a rubber line.

    Dino64-is that an aluminum fuel line from the pump to the carb? Can you share with me how (what fittings) to make up a line like that for mine? I’d like to avoid a long rubber hose in that area.
     
    harpo1313 and LOU WELLS like this.
  16. cometman98006
    Joined: Sep 4, 2011
    Posts: 223

    cometman98006
    Member

    I know it's not period correct but I see nothing wrong with an electrical fuel pump and if you buy a good one they are very reliable.
     
    clem likes this.
  17. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,263

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Those appear to be Jic fittings , very much like a/n fitting, anyone who sells hydraulic fittings should have them ..or you could use inverted flare fitting like OEM did...
     
  18. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 2,320

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    This pic of Frame , the builder made the frame mount higher them most use , majority of A frame & 32 for SBC frame mount is level with the top of the frame ,,

    Jic fittings are also called A/N ( Army navy )
    Most of your Russell , Aeroquip Earls are Jic A/N
     
    Just Gary likes this.

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