My first real post here. I have a 29 Ford coupe project with a 289 sbf. The headers rub the driver side tire just a hair when the wheel is fully turned to the left. I tried to dent them until they cleared and then wrapped the headers to cover the "modification". It worked but eventually shredded the header wrap... I've looked at other options like lake headers or fender well headers (I like the look of either) but they are tough to find for SBFs and or expensive. I've even considered having this current set cut and reworked. Any helpful suggestions? Id like to avoid dropping $500+ on a new set.
Have you looked at a smaller diameter tire to clear it? Don't turn the steering wheel all the way or adjust or install steering limiters. How about more pictures of the car to see if it would be aesthetically pleasing for a smaller tire?
Kinda hard to tell with all the wrap where the tubes merge but it looks like just the front tube could be cut and re-welded.
I'd like to keep the tires, steering limiters are something that I never considered! Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well you do have a steering Stop now it's just that it's the pipe. Here is the Factory built one. The tall capped nut is designed to make contact in the machined divot spot. Most Hot Rod guys seem to think they don't need that Factory stuff till they do. There are times like maybe in your case when it's necessary to limit the turn more than stock. That is best done by just turning out a longer Tall Nut. No muss no fuss. The Wizzard
If you end up making your own take note of the chamfered end on the tall nut. That is done to match the surface in the Divot and make a flat contact in given spot. You will want to do the same thing. The Wizzard
Does your car have them or have they been removed or never even installed? If it is an aftermarket axle they may have been omitted. You may have a hole there that the original builder didn't know what it was for. Then again if it is all original it may just need adjusted out more to limit the wheel.
I just looked it over and there are limiters installed but I'm rubbing far before they would ever help (even if adjusted out or with longer purpose made nuts)... I'm thinking new headers or modifying mine are my only solution? Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
To me the header pipes come too far away from the engine in the first couple of exhaust ports. Here is photo of mine.
Your steering components are 1-800 send them to me. Nothing wrong with that, your just not done with the Build. Question; Are you happy with your turning radius if it didn't hit the exhaust? If so build a stop and get back to driving it. I sure wouldn't start cutting exhaust if it turned Okay when a little bracket would do. The Wizzard
Or select a smaller diameter front tire. I know you already said that you like the current setup but what is more aesthetically pleasing, smaller diameter tire or bashed altered shiny headers? Short of what Pist-n-Broke already said about a bracket.
I would like a tighter turning radius. I think I would lose more than I'm comfortable with trying to limit before hitting pipes. Smaller tires than now would look worse (in my mind) than wrapped headers. So my thoughts are (1)to move the front pipe, (2)build a weld up set of lakesters, or (3)findings a cheap enough set of fender well headers. Anyone have a lead on new or used affordable pipes that will fit? $450-500 is the cheapest I've found.. Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You could cut and re-work the 2 tubes for about $15.00, providing you have a welder of coarse. That would be my first choice.
.I have these five chrome inch and 5/8 pipes for a small block Chevy. I could cut one up if that would help.
You could try some block huggers, but then face the challenge I'm having: flanges interfering with the engine mounts. I can add an inch or two to the bottom of the collector and just squeeze these in. It seems all pre-made headers have interference issues somewhere.
What's your skill level for working with Tubes and Bends? What kind of welder do you have access to. How much does Visual appearance (speaking of the repair) mean to you? You are aware that your style of Exhaust is generally found on Fad T's, right? It's there extended wheel base that makes them work better. woodhawg's exhaust is a much better system as you can see. If a new system costs you about $500.oo and you maybe get $200.oo for your used system your only in a better new system $300.oo. Would that work for ya? The Wizzard
3 things come to mind after studying the photos.. 1... 2 simple pie cuts and weld the header tube up ( I would do left and right for symmetry) 2... maybe you can run the 4 bar rod ends out longer ? Just move the axle slightly forward. 3... Looking close at the wheel offset , looks like a 1" shallower wheel would clear the header ( move it in to cover the rotor and caliper ) Maybe even just 1/2 "... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I see you are in Missouri... I'm in boise I'd area. If you were closer I'd have you come over.. Saturday afternoon job to do the header tube.. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm "okay" with a the mig welder that I have. I would probably seek out a little help. The headers were on the car already and would not have been my first choice to begin with. I agree they look like what are on most T buckets. I've searched hard for a used set of anything other than these that would fit and come up short. I should add, I do like that some lake style headers have refucers at the bottom for full exhaust. Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I agree , header revamp is the answer . For some reason they really seem to be very long . Do what ever it takes to keep that Ford Power , don’t get weak and swing a Chebbie in its place !
Mine started out as a kit from Speedway. We added an additional pipe to go under the car in front of the firewall so it has mufflers for being quiet most of the time. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Smal...e-Header-Kit-1-5-8-Tube-4-Inch-Cone,9789.html
With suspension travel, it will have to be a big bend to clear the tire. And that will look even uglier than what you have now. Sorry. Bite the bullet and put headers like Woodhawg's on it. They look great.
It's blanket statements like this that gets Guys in over there head. Once the pipe is cut past the Lower hose clamp how is Wizzy going to weld the 25 percent section that is along side the 2 Pipes around it? I have built as well as modified many a set of headers and just randomly cutting out a section and sticking in a different shape piece without leaks and Goobers is not a minor job, At least not for me. I'm all about using what we have and making things work. My wallet isn't any deeper than the next guy but I like to be sure the direction I'm headed is going to work and I hate Band-Aids right next to Electric Fans. Sadly those headers look to be Chrome then add in they have been run. You are in for a Welding Challange if you decide to do this. If I were going to take the jump and just do it I know how I've done this job before and be glad to pass on the info. Know this; my way is just that and I know it's been done many other ways before. For me it's a Customers Job and they have to be happy with Looks, that it works, that it don't Leak and I have to make a Buck. Wizzy, I doubt you can change over to the Chevy motor you already own for the cost of altering those headers plus you will still need to address some kind of New exhaust system for it. The Wizzard