I know someone on here has dealt with this before: I have a 460 that has a distributor stuck in it. In saying stuck, I mean I went to time the car, and after loosening up the hold-down, it refuses to move left or right. I sprayed some PB blaster on it, but it still refuses to budge. I couldn't really get a good angle on it, but the base has a small projection that I deemed strong enough to support hammer blows without cracking the fragile aluminum housing...long thin board and raps with a hammer still wouldn't budge it. I'm assuming it's the corrosion factor between 27 years of contact between the aluminum and iorn...but I hate to destroy/replace the distributor housing to be able to tune the car. Any suggestions?
Told ya all them car covers holdin' moisture in would come around ta bite ya in the ass! Seriously, though...had it happen on my old 429...it's just that whole "dissimilar metals" thing working against ya...no big crisis. Don't know about this PB Blaster shit, but I SOAKED mine with WD-40 overnight, then tapped the distributor housing several times with a hammer the next day. (It's tougher than you think!). In MY case, I also grabbed the housing with a Missouri Filter Wrench (BIG pair of channel locks ) and gave it a heave-ho. Popped loose after a couple yanks in each direction. (Take your distributor OUT once you free it up, clean the housing real good and do your best to clean the hole where it goes (without dumping TOO much crud into the engine!). Then, apply a coat of anti-seize to the distributor housing everywhere it contacts the engine, so this doesn't happen again!).
Thanks for the ideas, Hack...I do have a big-ass set of channel locks, but I'm trying to NOT destroy the looks of the distributor either. Maybe I'll try that but wrap it with something first. I'll shoot some WD on it too and see what happens. In my experience, WD is a bit on the WEAK side, and I've had good luck with the PB Blaster shit...
I've had good luck with Krall oil(sp). It works good for good for getting the aluminum rims off late 70's Cougars & T-birds as well as freeing up stuck engines. Billy
I've had those be a real pain. Ended up destroying a couple tring to get them loose. One time we put the cherry picker on one and had the front wheels of a 74 Grand Marque off the ground and it still wouldn't budge.
Ford 429/460 and FE motors are well known for the "Stuck Distributor" syndrome. I have a Snap-On brand slide hammer with a fork attachment that works well. There are times though when the only way to remove one is by literally breaking it apart. Good Luck!
try the WD-40 as Hack said -Then take a 1x2 peice of wood and an air chisel with the round flat hammer like bit and rap the distributor [with the board in between] the chisel and distributor....this will vibrate it allownig pentrating oild to seep down in the gap.-a little vibration or even Heat sometimse can perform miracles.......
I had the same problem a couple of months ago. What I ended up doing was put a cherry picker on it. I had the front end off the ground also and a few hard blows from a sledge hammer and out it went into my rafters. Like someone else said sometimes the only way it to get them out in pieces. Good luck. Just look at it this way it might be faster to break it out of there and buy a new one. You'll be on the road faster. Just my .02
Dealing with the same thing right now. Boss said "I need the dump truck this afternoon, is it fueled and ready?" I replied "sure boss, just give me 20 min to change the distributor......" Famous last words before a wasted weekend. Been prying, tapping, heating, pb blasting, and finally chiseling for 2 days now. Finally got it broke off even with the deck, remaining part of base will move up and down 1 1/2" but still wont turn or come out of the hole without busting it and dropping even more metal in the pan.
I have been successful getting seized distributors out by welding a large nut to the shaft and threading a large slide hammer onto it. A little heat around the base wouldn’t hurt. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I havent tried it but ...there is a freeze agent in a pressure pack for freezing water in pipes so you can repair broken or seized valves..it might shrink the housing enough to break it free from the block... should be avaiable at your plumbers supplies
I actually used dry ice after heat and it moves more but still wont come out. I think its a ring of carbon around the base. hammered with a slide a little but scared of shearing the pin that holds the gear on so now its constant pressure (Old valve spring and vice grips on the shaft) and heat/oil maybe add a cold cycle. took today off for family, when I show up tomorrow hopefully the ford gods have it all apart for me or find that the spring launched the shaft through the hood....
Once you figure out that the dist. is going to be junk anyway. Weld a nut to the shaft. Pull it out with a slide hammer.
Yep... A little heat on the block around the distributor hole and then chill the distributor housing. I seem to remember hearing of using a CO2 fire extinguisher to give 'er a blast of cold.
I've got a 429 had the same thing happen .I used two crowbars one on each side and pow.... its out .SORRY did not look at the year...………..
Naw, I hijacked that old thread by comiserating with the OP. Didn't expect any responses, just a digital shoulder to cry on. but thanks for everyones suggestions. It came out all at ince with a lil help from a hyster. Launched probably 15' in the air and came down in pieces, leaving the gear in the motor which i fished out. I'll let this old thread die now, but thanks again for the suggestions. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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