So, I recently finished a 1930 Ford Model A coupe and had every intention of building a 1930 Roadster, but something else nudged that project out of the way. The encroachment of a 1947 Ford COE happened upon me and now takes precedent over other personal projects. It’s in remarkably good shape give it’s age and life as a work truck. First step was to pull off the fenders and straighten them up. That required a lot of hammer and dolly work coupled with welding up several years in the metal. Once those were relatively smooth, they each went into planishing hammer for further smoothing. They then were set aside. Next was the lower door patches. Started with a paper template slightly oversized so that I could throw it in the brake and bend it to wrap around door frame. Once I had the General shape they went into a shrinker stretcher to get the correct contour and bend of the original door. Cut the old out and as to be expected the internal structure was gone so I had to make that first. So, I made that and then put the new panel in place. Did this for both sides. Just tacked the panels in place. At this time I also realized that the original door gaps from factory were an afterthought at best. Body stampings at the door seam are curved and not even side to side. I will correct that later. The latest progress is the lower perimeter bead. I am a bit stumped over this but reached out to Matt at Iron Trap Garage for ideas. Simple answer is there are no easy ways to make this piece. I machined a die to use in a hydraulic press to form the bead profile which works but over such a long span it deviates from straight. So, it looks like I will machine some dies for the bead roller to start the profile and the. Run it through the die press and then again through the bead roller. For the corners it looks like I will machine a big thick piece of plate with the bead profile and bend it like the corners. I’ll use this plate as a buck to form. Fingers crossed. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I had a little time this evening and got up to the shop. I made a set of dies for the bead roller. By making a bead first, it allows the piece to seat easier and straighter in the die. Getting there. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looking good so far. Before you scrap the stock bumper, let me know. If the price is right, I'd be interested in buying it from you.
Only had a few hours to mess with it today so I went after the grill. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Had a couple hours. First bead rolled the lower piece to the correct profile. Then tacked it in place. Then it was on the the center spine. I had to remake it because something was a hair off. Gettin’ there.
Had about 3 hrs to play this evening. Welded up the grill, hammered some high spots and low spots and set it in place. Then got started on lower bead along entire lower cab.
I got a few more hours in at the shop. Hoping to have all the body sheet metal repaired and/or replaced by next weekend.
A little more time to peck away at it. Straightening the step on driver side. Also got the remaining lower bead all the around to driver side as well. The nice thing about these big trucks is they were built with thick metal and higher quality metal it seems. Yes there is some rust in spots but the good metal is a mother to cut through compared to the newer steel these days.
Lower bead is complete. Gas filler hole closed and started lower door jambs. Have work tomorrow but should. E back at it and finished with body sheet metal by Friday.
Had a break to mess with the front lower sheet metal. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hard to stay on this while I build a mobile coffee truck for a friend. Made some cold/fresh air mesh screens to replace the old rusted ones. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice project, good to see you have the tools & skills to get this moving along. First time I've noticed the later cabs kept the three ribbed belt mounding like the 38-39 pickups. Bob
Yep, the cabs are all the same from 38-47 for COEs. Only variance is in the grill shell for 38/39. Those had the oval insert but all interchange between years. They also look good with the matching baby brother regular pick up with the same belt line as you eluded to. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I had the 47 media blasted which did show a few minor pinholes in random locations. Likely due to the inconsistency in the metal 70years ago. Rather than cut out I leaded the small spots. Also had some time to repair the irreparable steps that had rusted through the bead area. Finally, last night I made a few mi or repairs to the driver side fender and gave it a mock up. Gap needs work lower front but should be straight forward. Then on to the other side.
Found some more rot that needed to be removed. Also a pic as I left the shop. Other fender mocked up.
Nice build so far..... Maybe I missed it but what is your plan for the finished truck? Flatbed car hauler, truck bed, camper box. What are you wanting to end up with? Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Seeing this brings back loads of memories, stripping down and rebuilding my 41 COE Looking really good best of luck with it, and have fun.
I actually haven’t had a chance to mess with this since my last post with the door. The plan is to use a toronado front end with a transaxle. This will eliminate the need for a rear drive shaft. I have bogies from a 12k lb motorhome and they will serve as rear “axles”. I will have a bed “look” but the inside deck will tilt like a flat bed. I want my cake and eat it too. Not gonna be easy but I have the idea based on Denny’s Hot Rods but with some additional tweaks. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Happy to see another COE project! Looks good. I've been killing myself on the other side of the state for a 2 speed rear axle and a few original (lock ring, not 2 piece split rim) wheels for my flatty powered '39 COE project. Do you scrap the chassis?