I bought a weber aluminum flywheel used off the classifieds here. This particular one is solid aluminum with no insert. After having it surfaced I had a new pilot bushing put in it, then installed it on my 59ab. Also had it balanced with pressure plate as well. First lesson learned, rotate engine after installing flywheel to check for clearance before putting engine in chassis. Needless to say I had a interference issue. I resolved this with button head Allen screws in the oil pump drive cover on the back of the block and having a little extra room machined in the back of flywheel. so before I learn my second lesson, is there a specific clutch or type I should be run ing on this flywheel? A friend spoke to someone who said I should be running xyz123. Friend could not remember what he was told and I searched here and didn't find a answer. Car is a 32 roadster with no fenders. Bottom line what clutch or type should I use on a aluminum flywheel that has NO insert? Or anything else relevant? thanks
I was always told an unfaced aluminum flywheel was expected to have a short life in a race car, so the racer would use whatever he wanted. He knew he'd have to reface the flywheel soon anyway. For a street car that you aren't planning on taking apart every season, I'd guess you use the softest disc you can find. Maybe send a used disc off to a rebuilder and ask them to face it with soft material?
My friend asked the guy he spoke to and he said organic disk. How do you tell if what you already have is organic?
An organic facing is what you typically find on a clutch disc, another one you may have seen is the sintered metal facing used in some racing clutches. Some organic facings are molded and some are the woven style which is preferred.
I think you should convert that to a wall hanger and get a regular flywheel... I'm pretty sure what you have is a race piece, probably intended for a sprint car. Those were popular in that application, as the only time the clutch was used was to push start/stop the car, no shifting involved. Some even used in-and-out boxes, no clutch at all. I can't think of any friction material that won't eat that aluminum in short order in street use. For street use you really need one with a facing. They make poor street flywheels in any case. I've ran one, never again. Flywheels store energy, the heavier they are the more they'll store; these store very little. Their claim to fame is instant revs, which is desirable coming off a corner in a sprint car. Mine was behind a 455" FE (and did have a facing) and even with the big torque that FE put out was still a bit tricky when taking off. You'll have issues with that less-powerful flathead. They also don't dampen vibration from the firing pulses worth a damn, I swear you could feel every one when I had my foot in it. Haven't owned a car before or since that developed rattles quicker. The instant revs they offer sounds mean and is a lot of fun, but the other issues will quickly wear you out. You'll end up being unhappy...
I found one for a guy at a scrap yard, sold it to him for the 5 $ it cost me..He had enough trouble getting the tractor on and off the trailer never mind pulling anything..I gave him a steel flywheel and all around much better..As previously said if you must use the aluminum flywheel then I would have a disc built for organic facing on the flywheel side and/or a more aggressive facing on the pressure plate side..In use some aluminum is absorbed by the clutch facing so wear is not too awfully bad with low horse power and light car...Your choice..
Had one (Wilcap) years ago.Used it on the stree t for quite awhile in SBC powered Studebaker and then for about 5-6 seasons in a dirt track car, never had a problem with it. Think I did resurface once.
Glad you asked that question. I have one kicking around the garage never used. Now I need to go find that sucker. Haven't seen it in a year or two or three.
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