Technical 283 CHEVY CAM SUGGESTIONS?

I already have a rebuilt 700R4 trans and converter, so buying a higher stall didn't make sense. The body and frame will be beefed up, but still don't want to risk twisting them with a high HP or Torque engine.

 

Getting the engine screwed together is a big accomplishment in itself, but something people fail to do is set up the distributor for THAT engine, just buying a new MSD distributor and stabbing it in isn't the end of it.
All one has to do is open up an oem shop manual and scan through the engine specs section to see the various ignition settings. Big difference between a heavy truck and a lightweight car such as a Chevy II.
You can build an engine with all the best parts but if the ignition system isn't "married" to it, it could be unresponsive in certain rpm ranges.
Rearend gear ratio ties in also, especially with the overdrive transmissions that are so popular now.

 

Needs a Stude Engine

 

It may have gotten one if I didn't have the 283 sitting around nobody wanted!

 

He's got one, a 283 Chevy!

 

I've built a few 283 engines and if a lopey cam was going in it I used to angle milled the heads 1/16 with a .025 flat mill. I don't remember the exact number, but takes the chamber volume down into the low 50s. It really help off idle performance by keeping the cylinder pressure up.
1.88 valves from the 305 engine help too.

 

I may be wrong...I'd have to reread all the chatter to be sure...but this may be the FIRST discussion of Duntov cam in which no one conflated the Duntov and the "60-60" cam! There's ALWAYS been confused championing of the fabled "Duntov 60-60 097" before! Has education actually...worked?

 

lots to chose from

 

You guys are making me wanna build another one....

 

Do It!

 

A wide LDA will have less valve overlap 114 cams act smaller than a 108 at idle Comps thumper cams have tight LDAs

 

All I know is that I have an .097 cam in a stock rebuild 65 283 with power pack heads. Runs a 600 Edelbrock carb.It has great looking idle revs very fast ,& makes great power. Haven't had to adjust valves in 2yrs. In my 2000lb roadster with a 4spd trans it runs like a scalded dog. Makes you just want to bang gears.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Let's revive this thread and go a DIFFERENT angle...................What cam would you use if you wanted good mileage in a daily driver? With the understanding of course that a carb'd V8 will only do so good in the MPG area.

 

Comp Cams 260H

 

Tell me what you really think!?

 

It’s basically an RV cam. It’s the perfect cam for a 283. I bought the 097 Comp Cams version for my 265, but honestly the 260H wasn’t that different.

I used to average 16 in town, if I kept my foot out of it. I had a 500 cam Edelbrock carb, TH-350, 3.36 gear and a 235/70-15 tire.
21 was the best on the highway. 3500# truck

 

I hope what was ever chosen was put in with 6* advance…

 

If the L79 cam has a 114 LSA, it should have a pretty smooth idle.

Keep in mind that a 283 has 44 fewer cubic inches than a 327. Any cam meant for a 327 will seem bigger in a 283.

You do need to consider vehicle weight, axle ratio, torque converter stall speed, and tire diameter. The 700R4 does have a low 1st to get you moving, but broader gap between 1st and 2nd. If you are not making any other internal modifications to the engine, I wouldn't go too big on the cam. If set on a hydraulic flat-tappet cam, I would go no higher than an advertised duration of 262. It's been suggested that once you select the cam you think you want, go one step smaller.

 

Sounds like what I had in my 54

 

If going for fuel milage and mild performance an Edelbrock Performer Plus or it's equivalent. Its gentle on the valve train, has a noticeable idle, and probably available in a Melling, Speed-pro or house brand at Summit or Jegs.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/gm-factory-cams-specs.1227162/

Here's all the specs for the factory cams that are being thrown out as suggestions.


First 3 are typical RV cams from Summit. Usually based on 350. Specs on Comp 260H as it has been suggested.

RV CAM 1 (summit)
Lift .450/.450
Dur @ .050 218/218 LSA 106

RV CAM 2 (summit)
Lift .443/.465
Dur @ .050" 214/224 LSA 112

RV CAM 3 / street performance (summit)
Lift .465/.465
Dur @ .050" 224/224 LSA 112

Comp Cam 260H
.440 / .440
Dur @ 050 212 / 212

Since you wanna keep the duration a little lower on a 283 versus 327 or 350, consider this cam. Plenty of lift for street cam with shorter duration.

Isky 190162
Lift .465/.465
Dur @ .050" 208/208 LSA 108

 

The cam he chose advanced 4 degrees. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/200102/10002/-1

 

Kinda OT. I did a quick ring and bearing, lap valves on a decent running 350 - 70s smog heads, flat top pistons, 465/465 lift 222/222 dur catalog cam, random alum intake, 600 vac secondary. 700 R4. 373 gear.

That car kicked ass, way faster than it had any right to be for a pile of spare parts.

 

the 327-350 hp cam mentioned above is a great one for that motor. Crane cams used to have one for a 283 that was really good also-unfortunately i don't know the model but it was built for 283-327's in the day.

 

I would go with RV cam 2/Comp 260H (based on numbers alone). However, I don't see the need for more exhaust duration for RV cam 2. Chevys tend to flow better on the exhaust side, unless you have a restricted exhaust system. If going with a hydraulic cam, keep duration @ .050 under 220. Unless you want a rough idle, stay away from 106 LSA. 110-112 LSA better.