Consult your factory issued owners manual. I'd imagine the engineers that designed the vehicle knew what was appropriate, i.e. "safe".
You can give her quite a bit, but gotta do it slooooowly. Sent from my LG-TP450 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You can beat on the stock drivetrain like a government mule. Slow and steady but they will take a lot Trying to burn the tires and fly down the hwy .... not so much Read the top post about a stick over your knee if this is what your thinking
I put a '62 235 (150 hp ?) in my '37 about 20-years ago. It originally had an 85 hp engine in it and I drive the snot out of it.
I have a 261 bored .060 with RV cam and 3:55 rear gear and original transmission and torque-tube in my daily driver 48 coupe with drum brakes and pertronics ignition. Got 60K freeway and city miles on it thus far with no sweat or tears. Same setup but with a 235 in my 52 truck for over 100K miles and hauled full loads many times. Going strong for 23 years and never owned or needed another ride.
I believe OP question was about '40 Chevy stock drive train, of which I admittedly don't have any personal experience with, hence my earlier suggestion.
"I believe OP question was about '40 Chevy stock drive train, of which I admittedly don't have any personal experience with, hence my earlier suggestion." 1937 & 1940 Chevy drive trains are not much different from each other.
The ‘37-39 trans is similar. The ‘40 trans has an improved synchro assembly which is a much better trans. The later trans also has bearings instead of shaft bushings. I went thru a bunch of the ‘37 versions due to blown synchros.
Probably last indefinitely, until you start beatin' on it. Smooth & easy= long time, hammer down= aww shit...