Bear Claw Latch Install in a 1930 Model A Coupe

Bear Claw Latch Install in a 1930 Model A Coupe

A few people have asked for more details on this so ------

Wanted something more secure than the original Ford Model A style latches. Had heard too many stories from friends of doors popping open when going around corners. Also didn’t want to have to slam the doors to close them. A more modern latch mechanism was the answer.

One of the concerns I had with bear claw mechanisms was the short amount of movement to release the latch. Seemed like it could be dangerous if someone touched the handle when driving.

Decided to use a small DUAL arm bear claw mechanism. The dual arms allow a link for the outside door handle and a seperate link for the inside handle. A link to the latches that I used, models 9-400-R and 9-400-L, similar to the 9D-400-UR and 9D-400-UL without the dovetail.

http://www.eberhard.com/series/passenger-restraints

Bought the kit at Back to the 50s in Minn. From one of the small vendors. They have two levers, one for interior and one for exterior handles. Made in Canada. Numerous other styles are also available. Also try McMAster-Carr in the US.

These units also are FMVSS approved.

One of the fun things to work around on a Model A is the windows, they go all the way back to the door frame, no room to get linkage around the window easily. The latch mechanism has to be on the inside of the window track and then protrudes about 1/2 inch further into the car than original.

The door frame was trimmed away and an adapter plate that came with the latches modified and welded on. The modification was just a trimming to angle the top and bottom back to the door frame to cover the previously mentioned ½”. This moved the latch about ¾” into the car.






The door jamb had the catch removed and a plate welded in where the latch was originally then replaced by a plate with a pin screwed into a captured nut. This plate was trimmed to match the profile of the door and an inside lip welded on to mount the wind-lacing too.





The outside handle is a stock replacement Model A item operating a modified Model A latch with the bolt section removed and the hole filled, but the lock for the driver’s door retained and the stock locking handle on the passenger side . The pivot in the original latch has an arm BRAZED on for the new linkage (cast, so it does't like being welded) and all new springs installed. Worn pivot holes were rebuilt as well. This latch also provides support for the outside handle





The inside door release is a NOS 48 Chevy remote, one that matches the splines on the window mechanism that I am using and the actuating rod has plate with a slot so the release of the latch occurs near the end of the handle travel.


If you are doing this be careful that the handle remote will not cause an over-travel on the bear-claw mechanism. Had a similar set up on a 47 Chevy using the original remote and a Mazda latch. Pulled the doors closed using the interior handle and an over-travel of the linkage bent the latch mechanism forcing us to do an exit thru the window and a lot of fun trying to get the door open.

This was rectified with a small stop fashioned out of angle iron bolted to the door at the remotes location.

A pivot in the door frame below the window track handles the change in motion and gets the linkage down and around the window. Used a bracket rosette welded to the doors frame with a removable pin and a two armed bell crank that was fashioned out of a piece of tubing and some scrap. Bell crank has a pre lubed bronze bushing for easy operation and has a slot in one arm so the release of the latch occurs near the end of the outside handle travel. The sharpie marks on the bell crank show the area of the slot where the linkage just slides without moving the arm of the latch.



A shot of the bell crank before installation.



Linkage is retained by spring clips on all ends except one with a Heim style
end to allow some adjustment. All linkage works under tension to prevent bending. Springs in the original model a latch (rebuilt) and the Chevy remote seem to be adequate. An additional spring may be added between the bell crank and door frame during assembly just to insure operation under all conditions.





Combined with the new rack and pinion style window regulator mechanism that gives a smooth positive action and the awsum hinges from Blue Chip Engineering, now called http://modelahinges.com/ (primeisnotacrime on the HAMB) the doors now work better than when they were new. Cann’t say too much about the hinges, only difference between their product and the originals is “no rust pits”, perfect fit.

Also check for a posting by AHotRod titled "Safety Door Latches in Model A with operating Windows". That was my inspiration for my build with a different approach but similar results.

Hope this gives someone some ideas.

Canuck

 

Nice work and well documented,,this really needs to be added to the tech section. HRP

 

Great post! Thank's again for taking the time to answer my
e-mails for questions on your build.
Rich

 

Thanks Canuck! I found the other thread too from Ahotrod, thanks so much for clarifying this for me! Mark

 

Man... I wish this thread still had pics. @Canuck do you still have the images?

 

This bear claw change gets done often so hopefully someone will have useful pictures if
@Canuck does not have them any more.

 

Here's Billy Lanes's old tech article for a 28 sedan....pics aren't the best - reprint out of a magazine.

https://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?16230-Model-a-tudor-bear-claw-question

 

Great tech article , but if i am reading it correctly the door handle will be at knee height. The article did not seem to cover the door handle install.

 

Do any of these bear claw latches come with an internal lock mechanism, or do we just rely on the outer door handle lock like in a Model A???

 

All the o/p pics have been deleted. Kind of useless now.

 

I have heard of locking versions, but have not, yet, used any. I recently learned that there is a proper up and down to the installation. One way allows the latch to pop open, the other helps keep that from happening. Consult before installing.

 

akoutlaw
Canuck started a new thread this August titled "Bear claw latch and window regulator's in a '30 model A, (repost)" just because the pics disappeared in his original thread and a lot of members wanted the info.

 

For those of you with search-o-phobia here's the link to the re-posted info:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...all-in-a-1930-model-a-coupe-a-repost.1102036/

 

bjinx, Thank you.