My 65 Studebaker Lark has the original 283 in it. It has not been run a lot lately and now I can't keep it running long enough to check the timing. Today I got it started but if I get out of the car it stalls before I can do anything to it. The engine is stock except for a Hei ignition and a 4 barrel carb. It supposedly has 36000 miles on the engine. I am getting discouraged and need some help. I have limited mechanical experience but can do things if I am guided. I would love to be able to start driving the car. I feel that I need a plan to follow. My feeling is it is a combination of old gas, wrong timing (probably distributor is not installed in the right position) and maybe too big of a carb. It is a 650 Holley. I really don't have the money for a new carb right now but I could put the old intake and 2 barrel carb back on. THANKS FOR AND HELP YOU CAN GIVE. Enjoy your Labor Day
Sounds like it's starving for gas What does the holley look like in the bowls, do you have a fuel filter, what's the condition of gas and the tank it is in? Sent from my VS996 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No filter . Gas in the front bowl looked clean . I took off the plug on the side ( awhile back when the car was running). I will look further when I go back to the car.(Its not at my house until my garage is built) THANKS
Set the idle up so it will run without you having to keep it running Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Take some pictures of motor from different positions. Maybe that would help with something you might be overlooking. Check for a broken vacuum line..or a cracked vacuum plug. Gas is really bad when it sits. Carb could be all gummed up. Carb isn't too big for that motor..I don't think that's the problem. And why would timing change? Did it run ok when you parked it? Need more info.. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A 650 Holley on a stock 283; just a little overkill. Maybe you can "trade" for something more "appropriate". You're probably right about fuel quality, especially with these "modern fuels" we have with alcohol in them, that seem to evaporate quickly, leaving residues behind. Start with a remote tank, with good fuel, just to get it running. You may have to drain-clean out-replace, various fuel tank/lines, just to be sure. You really need to get that Rudabaker going! Everyone has provided good advice so far. Pay attention to what everyone is saying, and report back. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I beg to differ on the carb being too big. In 1956 the factory installed two 4 bbl carbs on the 265. At 380 CFM each that was 760 CFM. So how is 650 CFM too big for a 283? Yea your gonna say the two four was progressive. But the secondairys on a single four holley are vacuum operated. My bet is your entire fuel system will need to be cleaned and the carb rebuilt before you can actually drive and depend on it. Todays gas goes stale and turns to varnish real fast.
I will let everyone know when I find something. I can't work on it again until the middle of the week. Thanks for the help.
A 650 CFM carb on the stock 1965 2 barrel 283 used by Studebaker is TOO BIG! But that isn't keeping it from running. Once you get it sorted out, it just will not run very well at lower RPM. Manyolcars suggested to turn up the idle (use the curb idle screw) to a sufficiently high RPM (1500?) so that it will continue to run, and you can do some testing. Old gas will NOT help. Can you borrow a portable marine tank, and fill it with fresh fuel to use for testing? If not, use the high idle to get the engine up to normal operating temperature. Old gas will burn better in a hot engine. As to carburetor size: the 1957 power-pack 283 4-barrel was approximately 450 CFM. As mentioned previously, the dual quad 283 had two carbs that were approximately 375 each. However, CFM IN A MULTIPLE CARBURETOR CONFIGURATION IS NOT ADDITIVE! We normally figure 60~75 percent, so two 375 CFM are going to flow maybe 450 to 560 CFM. And this on an engine with cam, compression, and better exhaust. Carter made aftermarket AFB carbs for the 283, and suggested a 400 CFM to replace the 450 on the power pack engine. So not just my opinion. When the 327 came along, Mr. Duntov used a 600 CFM on the highest HP non-fuel-injected 327. My guess would be if Mr. Duntov thought the 327 could use a larger carb, he would have used one. Depending on what you wish to do with the car: I would suggest getting it running first, to see how you like how it runs with the 650. If you are happy, leave it alone. If you are not happy, then the original 2-barrel (since you have one) is your least-expensive option, and will run almost as well as if you spend the money for a 400 CFM, unless you update the internals of the engine. But you CAN get it running on the 650. Jon.
At this very moment my 55 chevy has a stock 65 220 hp 283. 100,000 mile engine. only thing I did was clean the pan and install a new timing chain. I also adapted a 625 CFM edelbrock carb and hedders. And it runs and idles great. Small block chevys are the best breathing flowing engines and in stock form can handle larger carbs better than things like a Y block ford. The first 55 I ever owned was a 265 bored to a 283 . power pack heads and topped by a 300 hp 327 cast iron intake and carter afb carb. Bought it from Eddie Smith. And he told me it ran like a raped Ape! and he wasn't lying. Way back in 55 a company called Man A Free sold a intake that put four 2bbl carbs on the stock 265,s and they worked pretty good.
The 327/350 hp engines had a factory rated 585 cfm Holley, basically a 600. I had a stock 283 in my 57 that was originally a 2 barrel engine out of a 1964 Impala, had a cast iron intake with an aluminum adapter and an #1850 Holley (600 cfm), it was perfect.
Will a stock 283 run and idle with a 650 on it? Yep it will . is it the optimum set up ? probably not . Think the OP has other problems , crap fuel, vacuum leak etc. So hard to diagnose stuff over the phone or on line. Pics of the set up or the list # on the air horn more helpfull.
Ok so I took pictures but can't get them to upload. The carb is a holly 750 . I assume it is too big. I am going to find tdc and make sure the distributor is in the right spot and go from there . Any carb suggestions. I think I want a 4 barrel but I want something I won't have to mess around with to make work. I will post pictures soon. Thanks
You originally said it was a 650, even that is more cfm than a stock 283 needs. Myself and others here have said it often, the Edelbrock 600 electric choke is pretty hard to beat right out of the box and IF it needed any adjustments their little tuning booklet is pretty thorough, they have any replacement jet/rod combination you would ever need too. Not to sound preachy but you could spend a few extra hours working to afford the new carb instead of the time (most of us) spend in front of a computer.
I did think the carb was a 650. I do appreciate the help and I hear what you are saying about getting a new carb. My question is ,isn't the 600 a bit too big also? I just want to make sure I buy the right carb. I am semi retired . I was a fireman for 32 years and a dental lab tech for almost forty. I am still doing the lab work part time but really don't want to work more because I am enjoying not working 70 hr weeks anymore. It just takes longer to get parts but I now have time to work on things and am enjoying life. I really do appreciate everyone's advise and replies.
Edelbrock also has a 500 cfm 4bbl . I'm thinking that would be a good fit for your application. Still wondering what intake you have, square bore or spreadbore? I have found with Edelbrock carbs you'll want to use an insulated baseplate gasket and a fuel pressure regulator, As sometimes they have heat soak issues especially with shitty ethanol fuel.
You're right, that might be smarter, hell, a Holley 390 might even work. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/classic_holley/parts/0-8007
Never tried a 390 on a V8 ....anybody else tried this? I prefer Holley carbs , But lately the 390 is a little spendy...
My problem with a holley or even a stock 4GC unless you regularly open the four bbl up all the way and deplete & replenish the fuel in the rear bowl that fuel goes bad and gums up the carb.
Ok old wolf ..I'm gonna apologize in advance ...If your a hot rodder don't you open up the secondaries every time you drive it? Gotta blow the carbon out some how . Looks like the OP is done with this anyhow
Thanks for the replies I am not done. I just haven't been able to do anything to the car. We just moved to a new house and I am currently building a deck. I think it's rude when you ask for help and don't post the results of the fix. I am hoping to work on the car saturday and will post my results. THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE HOW HAS GIVEN ME ADVICE!!!!!
Still wondering also. Some of these carbs mentioned won't even bolt to a stock PP manifold, let alone, even open, so we know it's not one of them. Some of the dual plane aftermarket items are way too big to go on an otherwise stock 195 hp engine, for a "driver". I'll wait for the pictures...Thanks
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