Projects Dagel's 29 Model A SDN from junk and castoffs

I believe I am going with a truck arm(2 link)system to save space it will use Johnny joint at the frount



This is the ones I prefer they come from ballistic industry in AZ. The adapter fit 1.5"I'd tubing so 2x2x.25wall works best but you can get it in 2x2x3/16 if you freeze the adapt and heat the tubing t0 400deg.
Shaft will be 4.6foot long.


There are some that say this won't work that it will bind here is my 53 with the same setup and no bind




I believe that this would've go in and out any drive. There is 6"more travel then my 93 D250 pu


12" of travel limited by the shocks


Any way it's what I plan on and may put bags on the back or transverse spring

 

Enjoying your build up. Thanks.

 

I have a pu I am working on to and since I had my air condition room clear out to bead blast the model a I thought I would shoot some paint first At
Paint price have gotten crazy
$340 a gallon plus $65 for hardener plus reducer I will just have to screech the 3 quarts of Orange I have left.

only way I know is to use my small touch up gun got this shot with 1 quart so I have 2 left to shot the lower part of the doors in side and out and the lower part of the bed. hope I make it . not there no over spray on the floor all the paint is on the parts yea.
paint nason $340
paint Wanda $405
paint sherwilliams $425
kerker sell some for $150 wonder is it will hold its collar


fender for 63 pu

the other one

headers and valance

Rims for my 53 ford custom line I must like orange


the rims go on this




the fender and front end parts go on this


can you say HEMI !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Oh hell yeah! A HEMI in the F100. Dig it!

 

Fantastic stuff. You do good work and must have a little desert rat DNA to drag the kind of goodies out from your rat hole, as seen so far. Wow! Chevy had a spy at Ford judging from some the similarities in certain areas of the engines, but the stacked intake ports are another matter. Same thinking that put three exhaust ports on the Flathead., I guess. I for one am going to sacrifice having my A lower, in order to put the tie rod behind the axle; though you say you're restoring the frame horns and, hopefully using Nerf bars, or something for protection. My gripe has always been the danger of it taking a lick, hanging out in the wind, on the open road like it does, and causing steering issues leading to a major accide ,nt. Animals are every where, as is road debris and alligators (the curled up carcasses of blown out big-truck tires). Just saying. Is the 2Door going to be orange, too? Your '53 is a good looking car. Is it a daily driver? Looking forward to more.

 

All will be daily drivers.
On the A I worry more someone using it as a chair and blending it. If I got it dropped low enough behinds the axle I had speed bumps and Everthing over 3"tall to worry about. Only other choice was move the radiator forward another 4" and run elect fans. The A will get paint not sure what collar yet

 

Yep removing all the petin 70%done and only 3 pin holes and 2 of them were under the canvas top


Good thing good thick rust free metal

Bad thing is the hind mounting area is all busted out on pass side



In side had been under coated at one time little more work

 

good progress!

 

got the rest bead blasted and prepend for epoxy primer on the in side body came out solid










also pulled most the wood I have both wood kits




not worried about the sub frame it is getting curt out and channeled 3"




also will need to fix the pass door post





did not prime lower 6 " since there will be lots of welding also the pass door post get major repairs the 2 lower hinges are torn out




went ahead and blasted the core support and painted it, it is for the 63 F-100 truck

 

ran a DA over it .with 80 grit paper





went around it and marked the dents and dings with a sharpie it will bleed through the white primer making them easy to fix when we get that far



no rust through gust a lot of small dings




this is the only major damage I have a new t trim I will put in when we work this area




so do we leave the bullet holes or fix them?


thin coat of Trans stare uro prime in white so it does not rust every where you touch it


and if you look you can see the dents marked with a sharpie

 

What can I say.well been cleaning the paint room out and getting the hemi done for the 63 f100







Had to cut the oil pan back to give some room since the truck got a crown Vic sub frame.
A few more days and this engine trans will be off the floor and in the truck.
I need more floor space to get back on the A and only way to do that is put other stuff together.

 

Still side tracked but that's how projects go in real life



I finished putting the hemi together and built some mounts.



There not fancy they are functional



And a chain rear mount now to build a cross member.



Also on last coat of paint in the paint room.
Note to self.
THE PAINT ROOM IS NOT FOR MEDIA BLASTING.

 

Got done cleaning the paint room and now back on the A and the truck.



Tomarow ill start the passenger side hing piller(a piller) the hinges are torn out.

Today I got the plug wires for the hemi done



And the 5/16 torque converter bolts in. It has a hot heads/Chrysler adapter on it with a 518A trans. I can tell you that with a racing pan on the engine these are dam hard to do and the truck was on a lift 3 hr to get them in.

 

The car sets the way I want it to so time to channel the body.

I bent up some 4 1/2"X 2 1/2" Angela out of 12 g sheet metal. My sheer and brake did not like that job.




The angle is welder to the skin the skin is bent over the bottem of the angal and also welded


Any place that had pitted sheet metal got replaced even if it's not rusted through.
Pannels are ease to make out of 18g a 4x8 sheet goes a long way.

The 2x2 tubing is used to keep everything straight
It lays on top of the old sub floor and under the new angle. Once the angle is in a fram made of 1x2 and 1x3 is made and welded to the angal to finish the sub floor.



You might notice I clamped the doors shut with 2 paint sticks as shims for door gap miss this and you door may not work When done

More picture later

 

Pass side frount the angle and 1x3 tubing is in still needs a brace

I use 1 pc of 1x3 tubing and 2.5_4.5 angle(made from 11 g) 4 foot long from the wheel well to the front .
the angle has 1 pie cut in top at hing side of door.


What has to go



2.5x4.5 11g angle on drivers side



Installing the 1x3 tubing marking sure Everthing is where it needs to be also check how the door work.
It takers ever clamp I have to do this part.

It's very important that body lines, door gap and operations is right at this point.
You don't want to do like gas monkey and find out after the welding is done that you have screw up.

 

you spend what seam for ever on some thing thinking some one took the light bulb out of the tunnel.
but I think I see the end of the floors


same thing on driver side first the angel then the 1x3 tubing got welded in


today got to start on the cross members ya. still the same thing measure make sure everything is still where it should the weld note the 2x3 tubing clamped under the cross member keeping everything where it belongs. once welded check door for fit and function.

clamps


got enough structer in to trial fit the frame now is the time to find out it does not work not when you complete the last weld


everything look good so fare


with 32" tall tires I have 7"ground clearance with the 30" when done it will 5" with 4" travel should be just right. or 3" with bags dumped. the channel is 3.25" plus I added 1" to the bottom of body I wanted some body below the door just me !


at the back there is 9" it will wind up at 7" when done

 

2X2X1/4 sq tubing for the truck arms

Grind out the seem so the bung will go in.
I also drill 2 5X8 holes to roset weld




Front of truck arms done


Next the cross member same 2X4X1/4 the frame is made of. A notch in center for trans clearance and 2 holes for exhaust to go through tubing in holes is 3"of 1/4 wall. Still need mounts for truck arms.



Also 6 of the body mounts ✂ out of 2X3X3/16 tubing

 

This is going to be one awesome hot rod. The stance is really good. I think I'm going to steal your floor plan, Really like the way it turned out. Nice fab work.

 

Mike thanks.

 

Fun

got the Crossmember cleaned up.



Built the brackets out of 1/4 plate.



that's left is weld the brackets to the Crossmember and weld the Crossmember in the car

 

Love my Esab welder especially for the heavy stuff.035 wire




Everything is 1/4" min. 2X4X1/4 Crossmember

9/16 fine thread grade 8 bolts

Holes for exhaust pipe and small dip for trans


Should get by with a small drive shaft tunnel.

 

Some pretty nice fab work going on here. Maybe I missed it, but did you make the bungs for the truck arms or did you purchase them? If you bought them, where from?

 

The ones I buy come from ballistic industry I believe there in Arizona.
They also sell on eBay.
There's as 3/8" longer then the ones from 4wheel parts.. I will post part# later

 

Time to make some axle pads



I need 2.5" more drop so I made the axle pads out of 2X4X1/4 tubing. Boy they look warped and twisted.the notch for the axle tube has to be at an angel becouse the rams are at an angel.



Here is a side view since I had to notch the pads at an angel figured I would build the drop blocks right in.



Took some serious work the get to the point of welding the lads on.
I put the rear end in the car install the blocks Ubolts set the pinion angel clamped Everthing down tight and tacked the pads(blocked)in place.
Pulled it back out and welded it up.





Put the rear back in Got it close to where it goes for now.
When I get the frount done and the body bolted down I will squair it all up.
If you pool close there are holes in the pads that will be used for alignment bolts the arms need to be drilled and taped at that time.



Need the spring or bag and wats link yet.

 

Cut brace weld, cut brace weld, cut brace weld, cut brace weld, I'm tired of this game.


Floor going in



1x3, 1x2 thick wall tubing. Loops 4x1/4"

 

This is really a cool build.

 

Thanks

 

More of the same cut brace and weld.


I have decided that if it needs a clutch or trans I will pull the body.floor space is mote import to me.
Plus the body will pull easy 8 bolts,clutch and brake pedal and 1 wiring plug.





Startling drivers floor need to hang master clyinder and clutch pedal before I can finish.


Here is the pass side welded in.

 

Working on the clutch pedal and brake pedal. I had so from a 40? Ford.

Pedals got new bushing

Shaft is from a washing machine adjator.
It just happened to be there right size. And who needs clean clothes anyway

Got the patterns for the bracket. I will cut it out or 3/8" plate.



The only thongs I don't like is the master's clyinder will be 1"below frame. And don't know how I will run exhaust pipe.

 

Used a 3/4" bar from a washing machine,a stepped washer from a ball joint press and a 3/4"nut.plus a stepped bronz bushing. Looks strange but it works.
Also drilled the 3/4"hole through the frame.



Makes a solid pivot point a plus the shaft is chrome.



The outer mount is 2 pc of 1/4 bar stock and 3/8 plate and another stepped bushing.
Still need 1 more gusset but there will never be any flex.




Once the brake and clutch arm were figured out it was back to the floor sub frame.




And now some 3"x3/16" strap for the trans tunnel support. Trying to keep everything close as possible to give the max floor space. I will probably regret this later but the body can come off perty easy and how often do you have clutch or trans problems any way.