Anyone know where I can get a digital angle finder??? I need to set my front axle and the bones on my A. I want to get it dead on the nuts and prefer not to use a cheapo dial finder...but I don't want to break the bank either!!! Any help is much appreciated. Mike
seems like Mark Williams has 'em. might try Currie ent. or one of the other rear end guys too. i wanna say they ran about 70 bucks but don't quote me.... i still use the cheapos...
Many harware stores carry the SmartTool, about $110.00.... a digital level that reads in tenths of a degree. I got mine years ago and use it frequently.
I got a Craftsman digital from Sears, it works as good as the high buck stuff....it zeros out really cool. We use the heck out of it.
This is the one all the race car guys around me use ... $104.95 Click on the link below ... even a 1 - 800 number to order it ... http://quickcar.net/chassis/ch_angle.html
I just ordered the SmartTool...looks to be the preference round here. Should work well for my Dads T Frame (when I get to it!). Thanks for the input! Mike
Machinist levels are far more accurate. Whether or not you NEED that kind of accuracy is another topic altogether. One thing I have noticed with most of the digiatal units is that their accuracy goes DOWN as the angle increases. Look in you instructions to see if yours is like this. Some will greatly reduce their accuracy after 10 or 20 degrees of inclination. Believe it or not a GOOD bubble level is tough to beat!!!!
Been using my machinists bevel protractor for years. (with built in bubble) Plus it's good for layout work too. Try that with a Digital! (and how many times do you plan on using it?? )
I use a 24" SmartTool level during chassis construction and remove the digital module from the frame for setting smaller things like caster, etc. I also have an angle finder with a 4" diameter face. It helps these old eyes out with the larger degree markings on it compared to those smaller units.
Hummmb. Wonder how Art Chrisman and the guys out at Bonneville who building 200+ cars 50 years ago did it befor even the word DIGITAL hadn't even been invented. My bit of sarcasm for the day. Ted h
The fuuny thing is that we tend to think more modern stuff like digital levels are more accurate than those "old fashion" bubble levels when the truth of the matter is that it just isn't so. Here's a simple rule of thumb for angular error. You'll be "off" .0175" per inch / per degree. Doesn't SOUND like squat does it??? The typical digital level has an accuracy of +/- .1 degree - that's .2 error - still doesn't SOUND like squat does it?? Apply this to a chassis - say we are looking for reference points side to side on a chassis. Let's say the frame rails are 48" apart and our digital level says it's dead nuts flat - but in reality is "off" by the .2 degrees that it's allowed to be....that quickly figures out at: (.2 ) x (48) x (.0175") = Error which figures to be .168 - or not quite 3/16" of an inch. Compare this to a "standard" machinist level which has an error of about .005" per foot (high side) - which would translate to an error of .020" compared to our .168 "digiatal" error from before. Compare this to a "real good" machinist level - error of .0005" per foot - for a comparison of .002" error in our hypothetical situation. .002" !!!! were LITERALLY SPLITTING HAIRS here. Bottom line - there's a BIG difference which may or may not be important to you. But regardless of which level you use you NEED to first make sure it's any good!!!! By this I mean that it's "in calibration" - levels which get "bounced" around are rarely "right". So before using your favorite level first go find a flat spot in your shop and place your level there - take a reading - now carefully spin your level around 180 degrees -being very careful to position it exactly where it was before - if it's in "CAL" it will read exactly the same amount as before. If it's OFF - you now know roughly how much error you have. Speaking of the "old" builders - I remember seeing a picture of Fuller checking a chassis with a TRANSIT. I don't know the accuracy of those, but I'd venture a guess that it is FAR more accurate than a digital level!!!!! I bet the "old chassis" guys can do a better job with a roll of string than a guy with a digital level. Now before I get the digital level guys all in a huff - keep in mind - I am NOT bashing them - hell I have 2 or three myself - you just have to know what to expect out of them - that's all I'm really trying to say.
Just bought my second digital protractor (use them everyday in the shop) from a place called Travelers Tool Company. 800-221-0270 Part #C57-020-505 called a 360 degree electronic digital protractor. $159.95 Very accurate. K32
Sometimes I display a signal with my middle digit but I never thought to check the angle.... In fact many times my hand is moving and covers most angles.... I gotta fix that HORN
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