I’m setting up my rear and have a model a rear sprig it’s the standard one (not the high arch one) it has reverse eyes ad is mounted pretty much directly over the axle.. the question is I don’t get much movement maybe 2 inches of travel before it feels like it bottoms out.. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Any thoughts on this is this normal for it to feel like it bottoms out Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sorry not the best pics but hard to get a great shot of it.. it appears that the springs bug is actually hitting the farm after 2” of up and down movement Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Got any more pic's from a little further back. I'd like to see more of the surrounding if it is possible, then I could give you a much better assessment.
Man I just read what I wrote damn son... so what I was trying to say is the spring hits the frame as it travels up and down with only about 2 inch’s of travel before it feels like it bottoms out Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I kinda went through the same thing. I just replaced my pack with a new pack from Posie's.....cured my problem.
Ok I was thinking that but doing standard eyelet instead of reversed Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Spring is new...so what most of us builders would do is take the spring out, then take the main leaf out of the pack and use a hydraulic press to make a non-reversed eye spring leaf . It's easy. Take the main leaf and lay it on it's side on the floor, then use a marker to trace the curve it has now. Then use the hydraulic press every couple inches, a bit at a time, to make it the same curve as the marks on the floor, but in the opposite direction. . .
Spring looks awfully flat to me, appears that you are running 40-48 brakes so I assume you are running a banjo rearend. Are you sure the banjo isn't hitting the center of the spring ? I've used several stock rear springs and never had one that flat, they are all about the same except for the number of leaves. I attached a picture of a stock spring with several leaves removed that is under my coupe, didn't have a good picture with the rearend in place. I did find a picture before I put the body back on and you can see the clearance with no weight, also a picture of the car mocked up to show the ride height. Spring compresses quite a bit under weight. Put a picture of my avatar in too, stock spring with a couple of leaves removed and frame stepped like the coupe I'm building now.
I like what your saying, and yup I’m running a banjo rear end. Definitely not hitting the axle the spring is hitting the out side portion of the frame.. I would like to go to a standard eye instead of the reversed I don’t quite understand how to reverse it without buying anew one.. the picture you sent looks like a standard eye spring pack Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was thinks by about taking out the second longest spring and see if I get more play Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Something ain't right, but until we get a better feel for what is going on with better pic's we will all be guessing and possibly wasting our time...
F&J's post (and a HAMB SEARCH on reversing spring eyes) and you've got all you need. Just rebend it gradually. (Assuming you have an A spring!)
I first thought it was some kind of fairly flat spring?...but now I cannot tell if the spring crossmember (in one pic), might be turning upwards like an Model "A" crossmember? I agree with fiftyv8 that a better pic of the complete spring is needed. I don't think I'd like the job of reversing an "A" spring main leaf. I feel it would be difficult to match the curve in the hoop center of those? But if it is like a 32-48 "flatter" spring, then yes, it is easy
In picture 2 is the old shock mount tube right through to the other side of the crossmember? If so then you may find that the second leaf is bottoming out on that. Phill.
Yes the shock mount tube runs through the crossmember.. do you think if I cut that out I will get more travel Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Do ya think if you cut the obstruction out you will have more room? Uh, yea. But, it looks like you have a really flat spring, compared to most A springs. Somebody built that spring like that for some reason. Did you order it special? You talk about removing leaves. This will NOT give you more room. It will make the spring even flatter. Worse problem.
Still the better pic's are required, but if those are what you call shock bracket holes go all the way thru, then you must realise that the spring will hit them. My view is that going by the diameter of the hole in those rods in what you call shock brackets, I think they were actually mounting points for coil over shocks in a past life. You got the best view of the situation, take stock of your predicament and think it thru.
#91043105....says it's a "medium arch spring"...10 inch arch. I think I'd go with a stock model A spring or a new repro in original dimensions. I just sold a fair spring at the last swap meet for $15....had a little wear on top of the leafs but usable.
Awesome that you guys.. I definitely have a lot of great valuable information.. I will update next weekend Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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