Hot Rods Is there a mini starter that will fit this stearing setup?

Hey Hambers

I have been putting together a 283 for my 53 Chevy. I have Walton motor mounts. Today I put the starter in and noticed that when I turn hard right the (original right hand drive) steering arm comes back and fouls on the starter motor. It doesn't foul by much but I do lose a little bit of my steering and I'm worried about damaging something. The steering arm touches the side of the main body then taps the back of the solenoid. Its one of those 10" starters with the solenoid offset at around 10 o clock(as pictured). I think what I need is one that has a smaller main body and a solenoid that sits right on top at 12 o clock. Any suggestions out there what I should use?


Cheers guys!

 

Other components to consider like belhousing, flywheel etc.
Start here.
https://www.google.com/search?q=imi...m6HbAhXqxYMKHZ79CrkQ_AUIEigC&biw=1280&bih=752

 

I've been googling. Its hard to say whats what as hardly any of the starters have their dimensions listed. There are a bunch that look like they could work but I gotta avoid shopping by picture. That can get ya into trouble.

 

I'm anxious that there isn't one out there that will fit

 

Check these out.
http://www.hitorque.com/Gear_Reduction_Starter_Chevrolet_IMI_102N_p/imi-102n.htm

 

Most of those starters are bolted to an adapter plate with a number of locating holes so you can clock it to your application. It's true that you will need one that fits you flywheel size. I've used several mini starters on 350 small blocks, but not familiar with 283 blocks, may have a different bolting.

 

There may be a bellhousing mount that does the job but I’ll explore this option a little more first. I could also modify the pitman arm. Bringing the bottom of it in by about 1 cm closer to the chassis would rectify the problem but could potentially hurt the steering geometry


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I'm very surprised that the GM mini your using is giving you issues. But then again I have no idea what the factory right hand conversion looks like and how it's causing you problem other that what you've written. Can you post a picture?

 

Here are some of the offending machinery:











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Forged pitman arm correct? Heat and bend it then.

 

The housing of the starter motor is 80mm wide and you can see where the steering linkage hits the plastic on the back of the solenoid


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I’m scared! Couldn’t that be a can of worms regarding geometry?


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Is there adjustment on the drag link that goes to the bell crank?

 

There is. Like, I can’t see anything that could negatively effect this mod but I’ve been wrong before. Might just have to go for it


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What flywheel do you have? A 153 tooth at 10 3/4" bolt circle or at 168 tooth at 11 1/2" bolt circle.

 

It’s a 153 tooth setup


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OK ! I used this to refresh my memory. I let my 53 Chevy go over 20 years ago. So to your post #12 in concern to geometry. No problem what so ever.

 

So much for putting a smaller flywheel in then !

 

Does the steering box mounts outside the frame rail with a 3 bolt flange? If so why not make a 3/8" (1 cm) (or thinner) spacer to move the box over to the left?

 

I could do that, however that’ll move the steering wheel over too as it’s a direct mount. More worms!


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They sell factory Delco mini starters in both 153 tooth an 168 tooth that are dead nuts reliable.
If you have the holes in the block to bolt it up this delco should work. I checked and a 96 Camaro with a 350 runs a 153 tooth ring gear. https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-337-1023-Professional-Starter/dp/B007QBT1CY
That Delco number will get a starter at any parts house.

 

Cheers 48 Chev, but I think that starter is the same size as the one I’ve already got in there

 

I don't know if it will work in your case. But Petronix makes a line of "contour" starters that may fit. They have a funky shape and an internal solenoid. They also are made where you can rotate/clock the body for more clearance. Google them and see what ya think.

 

I think you need a powermaster gear reduction starter.
They’re pretty small , maybe small enough to solve the problem.

 

GM/Delco 153 tooth flywheel
For my 67 Nova 327

 

IMI
168 tooth flywheel

 

Thanks so much everyone for your input. The Delco style looks like might juuuust clear on the starter body, but I’d say it’ll still hit the solenoid. I’ll get the tape measure out tonight. I really appreciate everyone’s help. Those tilton style starters might do the trick. Can they be set up to have the solenoid at the bottom? It looks as though they can.

 

True that.

 

It was late when I did that and I could have been off on my selection. I was looking for the same one DDDenny showed in post 25.
Reading the complete thread in detail this morrning I'd just heat and bend the pitman arm enough to clear and call it good. You aren't going to be moving it a lot, maybe a half inch at the end. Looking at it again it appears that moving the end about half the distance you have between it and the frame rail will work. It's still pushing/pulling on the bell crank the same with maybe 1/2 degree angle change. With that setup I don't see an issue with it.

 

My vote is for heating and tweaking the pitman arm.