Looking for info on replacing gaskets on a 1940 ford rear end.. I believe that’s all it needs. Any help on this would be much appreciated... thank you Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The gaskets on the sides of the centersection set the clearances for the gears. Very important to replicate the thickness of the current gaskets to maintain the right clearances (assuming it is set up correctly now). Note the bolt holes on the centersection have tight clearance threads and SHOULD NOT be tapped out, or they WILL LEAK.
Ok I’m pretty sure there are no gaskets on it currently but is spins smooth Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
as long as you are replacing the center section gaskets, you should also replace the axle seals. they are inside the axle bells on the ends by the wheels. takes kinda of a special tool, which you can make
If it spins smooth now with no gaskets, it will be loose when you install gaskets. Those gaskets are very thin. You might be surprised when you pull it apart and find them. Measure them and keep track of the size on each side.
Ok sounds great.. over all would you guys say that if it spins smoothly and solid I should be good will new gaskets and new seals with oil and call it a day Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This is the motor I’m running 270 hemi... so not a lot of horsepower Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That is a wonderful explanation of an early Ford rearend rebuild. Alex should be aware the Model A rear in the lesson has a couple differences from his 1940 (mainly the pinion's end support bearing, and not one piece with the driveshaft). But overall a great set of instructions.
I even numbered those 8 close tolerance banjo to torque tube bolts just to make sure they went back into the same holes. I would do the same on the rest of the banjo to axle tube bolts also. Don't chase or tap the threads on bolts or holes. I used permatex non-hardening sealer and snugged them up tight but, not over doing it. You can make a new banjo to torque tube gasket out of a manilla envelope. Start all those bolts by hand.
Awesome, I think I am going to convert to open drive Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Very good book, but his method for safety wiring the ring gear is NOT correct. You probably won't get in that deep, but I want to point it out wherever possible. For correct safety wire practice, go with the gold standard, FAA AC43.13-1B. Just because "Henry did it this way" doesn't make it correct. https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_43.13-1B_w-chg1.pdf
Alexanderkustom; Save all that banjo and torque tube hardware as it's getting really hard to find since most folks "toss it"'. WMS to WMS on a 40 rear is 59 1/2 in. for your open drive line conversion info, but measure yours to make sure.
Haha! Yeah, there's a whole lot of info in there. I recommend to anyone who works on their own stuff to pick one up though, there's a lot of really interesting stuff in there that proves very useful for these old cars. And safety wire starts on page 7-19 for anyone interested in looking.
The Jalopy Journal
