I bolted on my new IMI mini starter onto my YBlock. Apparently it’s equipped with a built in solenoid so the usual Ford remote solenoid relay won’t be required. Since my car isn’t wired yet, I have a couple of questions. First of all how do you run the wiring for one of these starters? It has the usual power from the battery post and one other blade connector for another wire. The next question, is it possible to power up the starter before I do any wiring to test how it engages and spins the engine to see if it’s positioned properly. If so how?
Apply power to the small terminal energizes it. Battery cable connects to the larger one. You can hook it up thru the Ford style relay by running a cable from the starter side of the relay to the large terminal and a jumper wire from that to the small terminal.
battery positive cable to the big screw terminal, solenoid wire from the ignition switch to the small terminal. Put power to the small one, it will engage the starter
I'd leave the stock Ford solenoid in place (it's a much better place to connect your charging system/power wiring to the rest of the harness), then just put a jumper between the terminals on the starter and connect the starter cable as per stock.
How about a couple of diagrams of the different ways to wire this thing. Or maybe that’s too much to ask for
Since your car isn't wired yet, it would be kind of silly to install an extra relay... just connect the big screw terminal to the battery cable, and connect the small terminal to the S connector on the ignition switch. it's as simple as can be
That diagram is drawn wrong ... Wire from switch should be from starter terminal not ignition terminal.
I Chose to mount my battery in the trunk and did not want a hot 12 volt cable 24/7 running to the starter. I used a ford style solenoid in the trunk near the battery and ran my starter power forward to the hi torque. In this configuration, you just add a jumper wire on the starter between the S terminal and the power lug to bypass the starters solenoid. There are cheaper and more simple ways to accomplish the same task as stated above.
Bandit Billy, did you buy a “ continuous duty” solenoid? The Ford solenoid is only good for a short time, it is used to power a starter. It will burn out in when applied to power a circuit fir any length of time. Continuous duty solenoids sometimes have two small terminals, one needs ground and one needs 12V, doesn’t matter which way it gets power. Comes in handy if you want to energize with a ground. Bones
Squirrel is right as usual, no advantage to cluttering things up with an extra relay. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You are just overthinking things and trying to make it too hard. Jim gave the simple version in post 6. Rather than run the battery cable from battery to to Ford Solenoid and from Solenoid to starter you run the battery cable from the battery directly to the starter (just like a Chevy lol) then run the start lead from the switch to the solenoid on the starter. Then two months from now you start a new post asking how to fix things after the aftermarket high torque starter screwed up your ring gear that can be added to the 50 other how do I fix it after the high torque starter screwed it up. Threads on here.
It is not continuous, the solenoid is only powered when the start button is pressed. Off when the button is released. There is no power to the starter unless cranking. All of that was run through a 4 post shut off switch under the rear end. When switched to "Off", it kills the running motor (isolated alternator circuit), all power to the accessories, the starter solenoid and the power flow from the battery. There are cheaper and simpler methods, I don't go cheap on wiring, brakes, fuel or steering...or really anything else. For motor sports applications I would mount this switch inside the car so it can be reached in the event of a roll over or serious crash, without removing your seat restraints. Go deep or go home...or go cheap. Whatever.
Got ya, Billy. Went back and reread your post a couple times, understand what you are saying now. Have seen the Ford solenoids in the trunk doing continuous duty, thought that was what you were doing, till I read more closely. Sorry about that, Bones
Well I’m impressed It took a while but captain negative showed up to help me out and to enlighten and inform us.
After cleaning up my little shop and putting my tools away I hooked up some cables to the battery and tested away. I wanted to be sure the starter was positioned properly and didn’t do anything odd like grind or make strange noises. I did find that the starter bolt holes in my Flat O bellhousing are 5/16 and the mounting holes in the starter are larger than 3/8” I’ll look for some shouldered bolts however for now I made some sleeves to serve the purpose. The starter spins the YBlock perfectly. It’s not going to be a problem, it works exactly like Gene at Flat O said it would.
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