Do you guys make a washer/spacer for the backing plate bolts and the steering arm nuts? The hex heads will not clear the spindle OD. My first scratch build. The backing plates are not the thickness of the step, so the nuts will not clear to tighten. I realize I will need to cut some thread length here after I figure out what to do.
Ford Spindles have a backing plate, grease shield, and special low profile, square head fasteners that clear the spindle. As far as non stock hardware, I usually see button head fasteners being used when fed out from the inside. If there's slop, I'd put a washer in there. Make sure your hub spins free and clear before you call it job done.
It is the steering hoop that is the trouble. Just add lock washers as required. You won't have to cut the ends off the hoop. I would also use grade 8 nylocks.
I would contact the company I bought it from and ask them to explain how to install it. If they can't explain it send it back. If they won't take it back tell us who they are. It looks like they forgot to machine 4 semicircle cut outs to clear the bolt heads and nuts. Phase II, go out and buy some original Ford spindles. Charlie Stephens
Original spindles did not have the cut outs. They used square head bolts that were restrained from turning by resting against the pilot ledge.
You are correct but you need to think out the geometry on this one when using the bolt on aftermarket parts.. Where the four square bolt heads used to be you are not trying to screw in 2 bolts and install 2 nuts from the side that originally had the square heads retained by the ledge. You now need to turn something instead of restraining it from turning. As I said before, send the stuff back and get original Ford parts. Charlie Stephens
Why should he obsolete brand new parts and buy different (OEM Ford) spindles? The only spindles available for his side steer drag link are the ‘32-‘34’s and then he needs to adapt his backing plates to the smaller bolt pattern and also he may not have the torch and tools to heat and bend his steering arms. As others have already mentioned all that is needed is to space the gap with washers. I would buy heavy washers, but no matter what washers are used they will need to be ground for clearance at that backing plate register diameter. Check with Fastenal for heavy washers, but you can stack regular ones if you prefer.
Drill out the spindle hole just enough to allow the bolt to pass through. I used washer under head of steering arm bolt plus Loctite. Make sure the bolt does not bottom out in the steering arm. I used grade 8 bolts for MT Brakes backing plates and Magnum dropped steering arms. You may also need to install longer grease zerks to clear the steering arms for grease gun.
problem solved. I ordered ARP bolts and nuts. Ydopen, I could have used those also. I may snag some and see which I like best. Thanks 19fordy, pics worth many words.
They recommend button head allens, which I don't like using. I work on printing presses, large roll metal shears, and any manufacturing equipment that needs repair. Button heads are always a pain in the butt to break loose later, mainly because of the reduced allen wrench size on these VS the cap screws. Add years of paint and they are a pain. I realize the larger ones wont be as bad as the smaller, and I would use them in a pinch. As for stock Henry Ford hardware, most of my build is from the man. I opted for new wet drum brake system and spindles for the ease of install and piece of mind. This bolt thing is minor, and I was only looking for ideas from others that have been there. This is a banger build with stock rear axle, dropped (Henry) front axle. I am not going for stock points.
I used cap screws also as the spindles I used were F1 and couldn't use the stock arms. A lock washer and a bit of blue loctite goes a long way. Cliff Ramsdell
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