Technical Recoating thin spots in fresh single stage

So I googled and searched and determined that because of the silliness of my mistake theres not a clear answer.

Yesterday I did my first single stage paint job on a car thats "nice" but not perfect (few door dings). My problem is that I didnt buy enough paint and basically ran out causing thin spots where you can see some of the lighter colored primer below (paint color is a deep green).

Now, I know I can scuff and reshoot the whole thing with that new green as a base and infact thats what alot of professionals do. However, like I said this car isnt perfect and the owner just wanted it a solid even color ( I should also add that this is a free job for a good friend whom I dont want to swindle but dont need to spend another week perfecting a paint job for, ha). The finish looks great, just thin in places.

What Id like to do is spot paint the thin places but my question is how? Im shooting with a devilbiss tekna with a 14 tip, and I have a small matco gun that has a 08 tip. Would the smaller be better for this? Do I need to worry about all that crazy mixing with more reducer to blend the areas?

Any and all thoughts appreciated. Im essentially learning through mistakes but at this rate Im really running through em haha!

 

Sand it with 600 wet and reshoot it. If you try to spot it, the color won't match and you will be forever trying to buff your blends. Next time, use a good sealer. It creates a good barrier between your primer and color and it allows better hiding of your topcoat. You can get it in diffetent shades of gray to black. Some are even tintable to get close to your color.

 

Agree with above, if nothing else at least paint the thin areas as panels, as in if the hood and doors are thin but the rest of the panels are good then paint the hood and doors complete.

Like stated above if it's all thin, sand and do it again.

 

I would probably just scuff and reshoot. It will make you the happiest in the end. You will just be chasing your tail otherwise. Light scuff with 600 and 2 coats will be good to go.

 

Don't even attempt to blend it in. You need to do entire panels as stated above. Otherwise you will be just chasing your work around the body.

 

Ooh I like the thought of just panels. I guess I could clarify that I didn't start to run out til the driver's door and rear quarter. The whole passenger side and hood look good! I didn't have enough to do the trunk of course.

 

In the old days if we wanted to do a perfect paint job with single stage (all we had back then) we would shoot 2 coats, let it dry for a week or 2, wet sand and fix any flaws, then shoot 2 more coats, wet sand and polish. It was a lot of extra work but we turned out some awfully nice looking cars.

In other words you should be able to lightly sand and repaint the car, or panels, with no other preparation unless paint formulas have changed.

 

You will end up with a blotchy, mismatched mess if you try to just spot or panel shoot. For one, who is to say the guy mixing your paint is going to mix it exactly like the first batch. Secondly, there are many variables that are out of your control such as weather that affect paint. Just take it as a learning experience, the more you shoot, the better you will become.

 

Thanks for all the advice guys, sometimes when youre learning it helps to hear someone say what youre already thinking. I ended up trying out some new sandpaper (3m hookit discs with a foam backer pad) and knocked the whole thing down at 600. Got a couple runs this time around but at least now I know I have plenty to color sand.

 

Had the same problem with my coupe, sanded with 600 and reshot it. Since you already have a good base in the same color it won't take that much paint. If you just shoot panels you might end up with color difference due to the number of coats.