Hi guys, I want to remove a leaf from the rear spring-pack on my 1930 Model A. The spring is still on the car. I'm pretty fearless when it comes to tearing things down with a wrench, but springs scare me. Any advice before I land myself in the hospital? Thanks, Carl
Unbolt rear end, remove shackles, put 2 c clamps on spring, unbolt clamps, knock out center pin with a 3lb hammer. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320AZ using Tapatalk
I'd leave the spring mounted on the axle. If it's one of the top three you can just c clamp the forth leaf, c clamp the the whole spring near the center bolt, remove the center bolt and loosen the c clamp next to it, pull the leaf and reassemble. I use a spare brake rod for aligning the springs when I clamp the whole thing back together for reassembling. Might not be necessary with the top leafs though. If it's a lower leaf I'd still leave it mounted to the axle and use a similar process for disassembling the whole spring, it will just take longer. The scariest part for me is breaking one loose from the shackles, that's why I'll usually break it down to just the main leaf before I remove it from the shackles.
Very helpful, thanks. This is what I'm thinking, but with the addition of all-thread replacing the center bolt. I'm looking to lower the car. PorknBeaner suggest removing the second to the main.
I also left my spring ends attached to the axle, jacked it up and supported the frame on stands, then dropped the banjo/spring just far enough for me to get the center bolt out. I have a few big, forged c-clamps, used one on each side to clamp it before I took the bolt out. Then just eased off on it, one side at a time, bit by bit. I also used the all-thread, just for a little security in case one of the clamps slipped, and also to line it up when I put it all back. I completely disassemble mine and took out every other leaf, but my car is really light. In my case, it was pretty anti-climactic, and much easier than I expected. Good luck.
George, the rear spring on a Model A is under tremendous pressure. I highly recommend not pulling the shackles off. O.P., If you have to remove the shackles, get a spring spreader, this way you won't die. Sent from my E6810 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I just installed my reverse eye spring on my banjo and landed it under the frame yesterday. I had to disassemble the whole spring pack to get the main leaf on the shackles. It was uneventful, and safe. I used c clamps and a carriage bolt for the task. I left all leaves in mine as it is a fordor body, heavy.
to get it off the banjo, wrap a chain around it and then cut the center bolt with a torch. after the pack is apart, put a 2x4 under each shackle and have a fat girl sit on the spring until the shackles are loose, then unbolt em
At this stage I plan to do as advised above. Leave the main attached, use all thread in the center and c-clamps and slowly remove one by one. If I decide to go reverse springs in the future I will get a spreader. Thanks again all - it's very helpful to see hot you all approached it. ~ Carl
DO NOT, as the second post suggests, try to remove the shackles unless you use a spring spreader to relieve the tension. If you leave the main spring, once you get your job completed, use "C" clamps to secure the leaves and replace the grade 2 "all thread" with the proper square head center bolt.
You need a spring spreader to remove the spring. You can drop the rearend down and clamp the spring on both sides of the center bolt with large C clamps and remove it. Then slowly let the pressure off to remove a couple of leaves, install a new long bolt and pull the spring back together. You will need a spacer when you change the thickness of the spring or the u-bolt clamps won't be tight on the spring.
Buy or borrow a spring spreader. $100 from Macs, which is probably cheaper than your health insurance deductible.
you only need the spreader if you are not planning to take the spring apart, and wish to put it back in all together. the one main bottom leaf is easy to remove and install by itself. the op said he plans to remove some leafs, so it comes apart, with a chain around it, on the axle. if no fat girl around, you could use a hydraulic jack and a plank to the ceiling, maybe even by yourself sitting on it with the 2x4's under the shackle to stop it from swinging. its not a big deal. the one leaf goes back on easy, then you stack the rest of the springs with the new center bolt that is extra long just for that purpose.
As everyone has said but I like to replace the spring pin with a piece of 3/8’s read rod so I can remove C clamps. I then back the nuts off until spring is relaxed. I reverse the process for assembly. IMO much safer Walter Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When you replace the main leaf with a reversed eye main, use the spring spreader for removal of the spring. When installing the reversed eye main the spreader will not work until you make an adapter to grab the top of the eye, not too hard when you look at it a bit. Basically modify a bit of strap or angle iron and bolt it to both sides of both ends. Putting the spring ack together, use c clamps (I use 4 to have backup) and all thread to keep alignment and additional backup against losing a C clamp while tightening the spring pack or adding a leaf. Remember to add short pieces of spring to the bottom, below the main leaf, so spring height at the center clamps is maintained whenever you remove a leaf.
again, you dont need a spreader if you install the main leaf all by itself. they are quite workable when its only one leaf, reversed or not. spreader is a great tool, easy and cheap to make, i have one myself, but if you are taking the spring apart anyway, its a waste of time. rap a chain around it, not even hooked, just rapped several times, and cut the head off the square bolt that is always shot anyway, it goes pop, and then you can muscle the main leaf off by hand. really, at this point the spring needs to come apart to smooth out the decades of rub marks in the leafs so it can travel, and smooth the ends, etc, it 80 + years old and needs to get fixed like the rest of the car
Awesome - thanks again everyone for your feedback. I'm feeling much better about tackling this job now. ~ Carl
Resurfacing this thread as I now finally have a little time to do this. The car is a fully stock 1930 Model A coupe. How many/which springs should I remove to drop the rear approx 1.5 inches? Thanks, Carl
I've honestly undone one shackle and knocked the spring off with a 3 pound sledge. Like every time I take any banjo apart. I just did it on my 34. It contracts in. It doesn't explode or launch across the garage just don't stand over it as it pops up a little but not even a lot. As far as reassembly I attach the main leaf to the axle and use threaded rod and 2 clamps to assemble in place. Again make sure to use the clamps. I've stripped threaded rod assembling a spring and that is dangerous potentially. It'll take your fuckin jaw off. Seriously. Chamfer the bottom edge of the ends of the leaves and grease between them for smooth operation. Let the hate mail begin haha
Well, of course you guys are right, and for anyone in the future that might find this helpful... A recap in full. My goal is the lower the rear of my full stock 1930 A coupe. The car is running and completely stock. With the frame supported on jack stands I removed the shackles and shocks and lowered the rear end to the floor. I did not detach the manual brake rods and they seem fine. Then I attached some C clamps and replaced the center bold with all-thread. Then one at a time I removed the top two springs. This resulted in lowering the car by 3/4 of an inch. In the upcoming days I will remove the third spring in hopes that it get me the 1" to 1.5" that I'm looking for. The hope is that this will keep me driving in style as I re-assemble my 8BA and start collecting parts for a full V8 conversion, lowered front end and juice brakes next summer. ...at least thats the plan. ~ Carl
i am looking to remove a leaf to improve ride quality. did removing the top springs change ride quality at all? thanks Chappy
Hi Chappy, I'll report back when I get back on the road, but on the streets of Brooklyn I'm not exactly sure what constitutes "good" ride quality.
So I pulled out the top three and I got my 1.5" drop - just enough the clear my low garage door with the new tires and wheels. This should keep me happy threw out the summer as I rebuild the 8AB. Next summer when the motor is finished I'll be modifying the whole drivetrain and rolling gear. At that time I'll fine-tune the stance including a drop axel in the front, but as I said I'm pleased for now. See for yourself. Chappy, I've only had the car around the block a few times but I do think she's a little less "stiff" which I would consider an improvement.
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