Technical HELP: 30 WEIGHT NON - DETERGENT - CALIFORNIA SUCKS

Tell me what brand you want and how many quarts, gallons, or 55 gallon drums. I'll need an address and payment before shipping.

 

I bought some 10w non detergent for my windmill off amazon. It showed up. Cant believe you cant order it. Or just plan a day trip to arizona and buy a bunch of it.

 

I see these guys on U Tube. Doing a first start on some vehicle that has been setting and rotting for a long time. They pull the dipstick and remark how clean the oil is. And all that has occurred is the dirt and crud has settled to the bottom of the oil pan. Back in the early days of the oil boom is south Ark. the stored raw crude in big earthen ponds. the crude floated on the water and the dirt & crud when to the bottom. then they pumped off the top layer and heated it up and the tar settled to the bottom then the grease and lighter oil ect. The gas and coal oil evaporated and was distilled. The oil sold for crankcase wasn't all that clean. Some folks used honey instead of oil.

 

I was with right you until the end.

 

The owners manual for my 1950 Chrysler Windsor says 30w oil for between -10 degrees to +100 degrees.
Clean the pan and pick-up tube and just use the your favorite brand and flavor. Straight weight oils, multi weight oils, I just don't use any of the newer "0" weight oils as I feel that's TOO thin for older engines. Even on a freshly rebuilt one.

 

Well I have a 56 230 in my car. It was rebuilt 13 years ago. When I bought it had a bypass can and element on it. According to the buyer the car had not run since the mid 70's. He pulled it without starting it in favor of a v8. When I pulled it down it was pretty clean inside. There was some deposits in the pan but the pick up screen was clear. There was a build up of what I called lead pudding in the bottom of the valve spring galleys, some to the point that the drain holes were nearly plugged. Everything else was remarkably clean. I was told the engine had 70k on it. Since the rebuild I have been using Traveler 15w40 diesel oil from Tractor Supply Co. I used to change it every fall after putting 3000 miles on prior to its winter nap. I have since gone to every other year so about 5 to 6 k on the oil. I have a can and element bypass (read that about 30% of total flow gets to go to the filter per running session). I have put about 40 k miles on since the rebuild. I now change the filter every other year.
Last time we're took a trip was an 800 mile trek to Maine and back, which required a half quart top up at about the 3 rd tank of gas @ 620 miles or so.
So how is your compression, and how much vacuum does it pull? They will give you a good pic of engine condition, and some insight of how much crap detergent oil will free up.

 

Probably a 235 in your 56. the 230 never came out until 1963.

 

I was working in an Exxon station in Lompoc, CA in the mid and late 60s. There was a fellow that sold Frantz filters and covered a large part of the central California coast. The man drove a 63 Pontiac with six Frantz filters set up in series. It was impressive to see his hood come up and all those canisters. His big selling point was that he NEVER changed his oil. He only changed the first filter and added a quart then. My boss would listen to the guys pitch every time he came in but never did become a distributor for Frantz. I think Exxon would have taken exception to the boss selling someone else's product.

 

The 230 was available several years before 1963. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

 

I guess ya got a Plymouth? The 230 chevy made its debut in 63.

 

Typical of the 50's my dad used non detergent oil in his Y-blocks since to him they had solid lifters and didn't need it. My oil 216 Chev ran on Savon Drugstore 10 cent a can 30 wt because it was what I could afford.
The Y I have today has been getting 10-30 and Wix filters since it gets about 2000 miles a year. The last change I put in 5-20 and I see a little more oil up on the rockers which is always a concern. I don't know if the revision was done to the center cam bearing but I'm going to stick with from now on. The factory recommended oil was 20w in 1956.
My GMC 6 racing engines have been converted to full flow and run Mobil 1 and pan heaters. Everything I've ever read says cold oil is the enemy so I do my best to help protect them.

 

It's 2018, and there are still folks that think that lubrication technology from the 1920's is superior to current.