Don't want to get a head of myself considering I have to do some saving up for my engine project for my truck. But for some reason I just had the urge to check out Speedway Motors to take a gander at their hotrod kits. I am curious anyone here ever really done one of their kits? Me personally if I did do one I was looking at their Tribute T-Bucket kit. Its priced at $4,000 and its fiberglass but for me that isn't a big deal cause once I am finish with my old car projects I currently have I want to build a old style hotrod to actually drive around and not worry too much about being careful with it.
Lots of Speedway bashers here but I deal with them a lot. Fiberglass is heavy and straight. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a T kit from them. SPark
I was a bit wary of posting this on here cause I don't know how people around here view non original iron when it comes to hotrods and such. But I just say the T-bucket kit is $4,000 and thought that was a steal of a price for the frame and body. I'm doing a quick list using their price guide as a crutch to see what my kind of build would be price wise. Probably insane to do this considering I got 4 project vehicles I have to finish before I get to this so I probably got 10+ years before I would even get around to this. Might not even exist anymore but one can dream I guess. In any case I am thinking a T-bucket like this with old style wire rims, biasply tires, standard transmission with a mild Y-block for power. Would be more of a mid '50s style build with the Y-block over the flat head. But thing is I can get a Y-block long block easier than I can get a flat head long block.
Fred's right. Nothing wrong with a kit. It's a start, then you make it yours. Think of a stock Model A or T as a starter kit,too. Just don't say bil*et, although the HAMB's not what it used to be.
Oh I wont be using that. I'm looking more for the vintage look. Only thing is wheels. The ones I really want to run only come in 5 on 4 1/2" spacing. The Quick Change rear end comes with 5 on 4 1/2" spacing. But the kit states it uses '37-'48 ford spindles. The only option I saw on site was a '40 spindle and drum but its a 5 on 5 1/2" spacing. Just something I need to look more into when I am not so tired. Same goes with engine/transmission combination. Originally I always envisioned my hotrod as being a hotrod 292 Y8 with a standard transmission behind it. Looking at the interior of this kit it looks like there wont be much room for a clutch pedal. So I will have to look into an automatic transmission, preferably one that will bolt up to a Y8.
Consider a hand clutch, more and more race car are using them. Pretty simple. Hand operated hydraulic MC working a hyd t/o bearing or slave. SPark
You won't be at the starting level but a hell of a lot of rodders got started over the years by building a T bucket starting with a kit. My wife still wants me to build another one so she can drive it around as she had a ball in the one I built in the 70's even though that one was pretty rough around the edges. I like the Y block thing as I had planned to put a 292 in my T in the early 70's until someone offered more money than I thought it was worth and I bought a 61 Chevy from a coworker and used that engine in the car. Bought the car one week, pulled the engine that weekend, ended up giving the 61 body to my friend's wife and we swapped the 283 and glide out of her rusted and roached out 59 into the 61 the next weekend in one day and she drove it home that night. I did a ring and valve job on the 283 and put power pack heads on it. Used a 5.00 pair of swapmeet headers. Wife sneaked the T out with her sister and cousin with her a couple of weeks after I finished it and ran out of gas and the town cop took her to the gas station to get gas for it.
I will have to look into that. Would much rather have a standard as I can get a over drive standard transmission to help with lowering rpm for cruising. I was looking at running the Quick Change rear end they offer for the kit its a 3.73:1 gear ratio and I'm looking at a #3 gear set which will allow me to have a 3.48:1 or 4.11:1. Thinking about trying the 4.11:1. Nice. I thought 292 cause they have that flat head sounding exhaust since its the same firing order but they are a lot easier to locate a reman long block than it is for a flat head itself. Only problem would be trying to find a triple deuce carb setup. I did come across some lake pipe headers for a 292-312 but youd have to weld it up yourself but that's no big deal.
if you'd been around in the '70s, hot rods were dead in the water. then everybody got t-bucket fever. they were everywhere! largely responsible for the rebirth of hot rodding, imo.
Milner, three ducesfor the Y block are still out there, fairly easy to find. Put the Ford a matic auto behind the y block that’s what came with it. Was a good transmission for it’s time , drove a lot of the with no problems. Might have a little trouble getting one rebuilt, but I bet there’s someone out there that does it. Bones
Owned/driven about ten cars from the 30's to early 60's. Found an empty f'glass carcus in a field in Monteray, Ca, and made it into a custom with 302/AOD/4-link 9" rear end. The decision maker to build it was the dorsal fin. Go for it!
I’ve also wanted to build one of these ever since they started making them I’m just afraid I’ll dump the money into it and build it and realize I’m too big and can’t drive it around like I want Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Interesting. I know my dad had a hotrod he was building back in the late 60`s early 70`s and he sold it partially complete for $1,000 to a friend that wanted it badly. Never did build one. Me all I have is the '63 my dad started on that I am finishing up slowly which is more of a vintage style street rod than a hotrod. For me I would like to finish my little vehicle collection out with a vintage style hot rod and I would prefer like a 32 coupe but I was looking and the T-bucket would be the cheapest option for me. Maybe later on sell the T-bucket then build a 32 coupe like I would really like but with how long its taking me with my current projects I have time to change my mind on it lol. That's what I was thinking was if I have to go automatic, go Ford-O-Matic and just hook it up in the stock format. Was doing some reading and saw some people were stuffing T5`s behind the Y-blocks so I might be able to get a newer style transmission such as a FMX or even a light duty C4 and run it instead. Nice. I think I will go for it. If I can get the money together I might just go ahead and buy the body/frame kit then put it on the back burner and build it when my current projects are finished.
That's something I think about as well with me being 6ft 1in. But Ideally Id love to build a 32 Ford coupe and take some styling from the coupe from American Graffiti. Thing is just the fiberglass body alone is $12,000. I could buy a fiberglass lowboy coupe for $7,000 but its a convertible. But if I find this isn't driveable for me due to my size then I would just out right sell it then use the money to get a 32 Ford coupe to build.
they could be built cheap, but it takes a lot of work, parts scrounging and dealings to keep it cheap. i have heard more than a few times how surprised guys were to find out how much they had in building a "cheap" t bucket.
Yep, for this Tbucket I would expect around $14,000 for the finish product. A 32 Coupe, just to get a 5 window body would set me back $21,000. Then the frame another $4,600. I would probably have around $40,000 in a 32 Coupe by time I am finished. Given I am able to do 99% of the work myself so that saves me labor costs for paying someone else to do it. But I still have to pay shipping for parts and still have to pay for the body which is expensive. I could get a fiber glass 32 coupe body for $6,000 but it has the suicide door which I am not fond of and its a 3 window coupe vs the 5 window that I think looks better. In the end it might be cheaper to try and locate a used 32 body and just weld in new patch panels.
I’ve been wanting a T bucket , ever since my cousin gave me a ride in his back in ‘67. I guess I’d better get started if I’m going to beat the Grimm reaper. Bones
Go for the Y block. I’m doing the same thing as you, building a car for the first time, but doing a ‘32. 312, three deuces, C4, glass body. Sanderson headers makes headers for the Y block as well. Flat-O Products makes bell housing adapters for C4, very nice kit. Been fun so far, still have plenty to do! Have fun with yours. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice. Id much rather do a '32 but just too pricy for me. A fiberglass 3 window '32 body is $6,000 and I am not too crazy about the look of a 3 window. Like the 5 window better. Those are $21,000. But I found the Sanderson headers I believe they were online at Speedway, the ones I saw you have to weld up yourself but that's no big deal. The only big thing I started recently thinking about is where do you really put the battery on one of these t-buckets. Wouldn't look right mounted on the firewall plus its fiberglass wouldn't trust it. Guess I could mount it on the frame behind the body.
For reference. I just bought a custom Pete and Jakes rolling chassis with almost all of the options for right at $12,000. Also bought a New Age Motorsports 3” chopped 5 window body with almost all their options for $12,000. With a Brookville shell and insert on a Walker Radiator, my new tires and wheels, a Tanks stock style tank and stainless exhaust I will be bumping $30,000 real hard. Still need my seat and the Rootlieb 25 louvre Henry Hood. Figure for $33,000 I will have everything except paint and upholstery. There are rolling ‘32 5 window deals out there for $18,500 that are pretty nice. SPark
I'll just address the wheel issue because you'll get plenty of (good) advice on the car. I know it's really easy to spend other peoples' money but it's a fact that the wheels make or break the finished product. There is no project component that has more flexability than tire/wheel choices. I see no reason to start a project putting limitations on yourself unless you foresee no possibility that your budget will ever increase, the key to this is the passage of time. I see it all the time, using time restraints (translated as "I want it now") and choosing conponents purely based on what you can afford now (or short term). Granted, T projects, specifically those purchased in kit form can be the most cost effective entry level way to start off, the problem is there are usually compromises involved. The outcome from accepting compromises are usually a recipe for an unhappy ending.
You could use an Optima or Odyssey dry cell and mount it any way you like, sideways to have clearance. The ‘32 I’m doing is a Roadster, and yes, the price is up there for everything. I’m doing 90% of it all myself, farming out very little, but am happy with the results so far. Good luck on whatever you choose to do, and don’t keep track of the cost, it’ll only make you scream! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Spirit Industries in Flippin, AR makes and sells extended T bodies and chassis. Their quality looks to be pretty good and the prices are comparable to Speedway.
I looked on Craigslist and was finding complete ready to drive built '32 5 window hotrods going for $30k. That's why I could never justify spending $21k on just a Ford licensed body that still requires the dash and firewall to be purchased. But I will look around and see cause I saw a '32 5 window hotrod years ago in I think it was Hot Rod magazine it was a father/son hotrod where they both built the same hotrod but their own way. I really liked the flat hotrod black on the '32 5 window and really loved the indian style saddle blanket upholstery. Figured that would be the route I would go but would probably lose the fenders and running board. I understand what you mean. I tried to do that with my retro Indian motor bicycle I built from pieces ended up costing me about $750 more than I had planned on. In this case I found some Vintiques 64 Series chrome steel rims, 15x5" with 3" back spacing with both 5x4.5" and 5x5.5" bolt pattern. Would run these rims without hubcaps and as far as tires goes I am not sure. Ideally I would like to run some of the American classic bias look radials all around in the same size but even with a 292 Y-block powering it I think the light weight will reduce traction for me. I do see coker sells a 800x15 firestone dragster cheater slick. Could run that but then Id have to run a close look alike tire up front which would be the Firestone grooved dirt track tire. But I probably will go with the flow in this case long as I can get the basics down cheap enough to purchase to get started on before I lose interest in waiting to obtain enough parts to start. lol Yep I wish I didn't figure up how much my Indian motor bicycle project cost cause I never would have done it. Could have used that money and bought this new motor for my daily driver vs having to ride the bike to work till I got enough saved up to make the $3,600 purchase. Might need to check them out. Going to be a while before I make a purchase but doesn't hurt to have some kind of idea before settling. For me it would be bad because I have four vehicles currently that needs to be refinished. Once I finish these I have only one more project I can do and it would have to be either a hot rod or a factory five kit car. Even then I might get pressured into selling one of my current vehicles since might not have room. The T-bucket or even a '32 5 window would be small enough that I could in theory park it on the 2 post lift I will have once I move so it will be out of the way. Really? I need to look more into it cause just looking on speedway they only have the one hub and one drum offered.
Wouldn't surprise me. I still kick myself for not looking more into it. Shop down here was selling a '53 Ford customline 4 door with the original flat head. Orignal one owner running looked damn good for its age. Was asking $6,000 but after about 2 years he finally dropped it down to $4,500 and it sold.
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