I have a rebel wire 9 plus 3 circuit wiring kit I'm wiring the headlights I have an aftermarket light switch that doesn't match the diagram my question is the blue dimmer power wire what switch location that go screwed too also the yellow headlight power wire what location on switch is that screwed on
The blue wire to the dimmer switch would go to the HEAD connection. That is power to the headlights, the dimmer switch selects whether they get low beam or high beam. I don't understand your question about the yellow wire...
You could try putting the dash lights with the tail lights, they both come on in both positions when you pull out the switch.
Headlamp switch has TWO power feeds? What brand of switch is this? I had one from an Olds Vista Cruiser that had the same setup...Is this the new 'standard'?
Similar but different than this one: Just a switch I had in the shop. Probably bought from Piston Ring (Canadian Auto Part Supplier) as a replacment. Not a standard, just one type of switch and the way it was wired. Not helping the OP much, his best bet is to get a multi-meter and figure out what each terminal is suppose to do and take it from there.
I had a switch like the OP shows that feeds the headlights and tail lights through the same power input. I found out the hard way,on a dark night in a sweeping turn, that the circuit breaker on the switch was marginal for my use. I replaced it with the GM style like Ron Francis sells (and like the one Canuck posted) with a separate power input for the tail lights and haven't had any more problems, knock on wood. Gary
You see the terminal at the front of your switch ,that white block is a rheostat that is where the dash lights connect to so when you turn the knob they will brighten & dim.
Most universal wiring harnesses are "GM friendly" even with the color codes,the GM style switches have have two power leads going in Fords only use one power lead in. This is why guys with Fords end up calling Rebel Tech to find out how to wire the headlight switch. If you've ever driven a Chevy and the dash lights go out the tail lights are usually out too,got reminded about that by a friendly officer of the law once. Plenty of youtube videos on wiring harnesses. And highly recommend this little book https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Book-How-To-Wire-Your-Street-Rod,2824.html
Here is the same GM style switch Rebel sells for $10 less https://www.ebay.com/itm/Street-Rat...ash=item3a5455505b:g:M0AAAMXQSnVRZI5i&vxp=mtr
Ok ,I'm almost done.I was checking the tailights,so ..I have lights but no brake lights.In the wiring I have white"brake switch" wire,orange "brake switch pwr",and another orange wire"3rd brake light"which I am not running...I must have these wrong..can you guys clarify where these wires go...thanks again..
Take your test light and check if you have power to the orange wire with key off. Make sure your using the 14ga. Org. To the brake switch. 3rd. brake is 18ga. This is designed this way. No brake lights with key off. They have been asked about this design. They say why do we need brake lights when the key is off. Still a good dollar value.
Got that issue done..Thanks for ur help..how do I check my "1 wire alternator"to see if it is charging.. I pulled positive cable off batt and the engine shut off..
^^^^X2-bad idea. Check voltage at alt terminal not running-should be 12.5 volts or close. Start it up and rev it a bit then check again at idle-13.5-14 volts
Just wanted to post this for you guys if anyone needs it. Shows a little more detail than the older one. Not really sure where would be the best place to post it, but figured you guys could pass it around if needed. If anyone ever needs any help, don't hesitate to call us, 423-263-5399 or [email protected] . We have a lot of other diagrams, but to put them all in the manual would add a couple hundred pounds
Like the new diagram, makes it easy to understand. How about putting a bunch of those diagrams up on your web site or on a link list provided with your wiring kits? Used a 9-3 kit a few years ago and knew I was in for some grief because of how I wanted to run wiring. Had to start by unbundling the kit and tracing the circuits to fuse panel, through it and to their destination before I could start. Canuck
Just thought to add a comment. My car has a 40 Ford dash and the GM headlight switch is a tad too big to fit so I used a Mopar headlight switch that has similar wiring with the separate feeds for headlights and taillights. It is just a bit smaller. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app