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Hot Rods how to clean auto badges?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by str8axle63, Mar 15, 2018.

  1. str8axle63
    Joined: Dec 16, 2015
    Posts: 34

    str8axle63

    Does anyone know how to clean / restore auto badges? They actually look better in these pictures then they are. I not looking for them to look new, just so they are readable on the truck.
    Thanks for you help badge.jpg badge1.jpg badge2.jpg
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. Oxyclean..... although probably not on aluminum.
     
  3. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    Be careful! If too clean, you'll have no contrast between the background and the lettering, and they'll look worse than now. You may want to consider painting the background or letters, as they would have been when originally produced. After cleaning, I wash with lacquer thinner to remove any contaminants before painting.
     
  4. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,679

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As far as the rust removal part goes...
    At least for anything made of steel, the most thorough and safe (to the part and us) that I've found is citric acid. I've been doing this on my rusty tools lately...works great. You'll find it in powder form in the baking aisle at the grocery store. Mix some in water, soak the part for however long it takes, then rinse in a solution of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid, then rinse in water. Let it dry. There will be a light coating of dark gray remaining. On my tools and stuff, I wire wheel them...way more aggressive than needed...but it's quick and scratches don't matter. But in this case, use a much lighter method...maybe a toothbrush and soap and water or similar. You can dump the citric acid solution almost anywhere...no harm.
    As for the rest of the cleaning, restoration process, I'll let others make suggestions.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.

  5. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 867

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    Why not just polish them on a bench grinder with a polishing wheel or two and some cutting compound. If you want the black background, just spray paint them when done and CAREFULLY wipe away the paint on the letters with thinner
     
  6. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,396

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    IMG_20180304_165127778.jpg
    I just did this one. It takes patience. If you notice, the letters are raised above the surface. Clean it up so the paint will stick. No don't wire wheel it, bead blast it, your Martin Harrington will probably work with a solvent wash like lacquer cleaner.
    Paint it with the color you want, rattle can black works. Not too heavy a coat. Let it dry for a week at least. Take 2000 grit wet/dry and sand the paint off the high surfaces. I take it to the kitchen sink and run a slight stream of cold water over it while I sand. It takes time but the letter s and graphics start to appear. You want to make sure you don't let the paper sand off paint on the low areas. It takes a little technique. If you mess up, repeat....
    Hope it helps and show the outcome.
    Larry

    Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

  8. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,277

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    I probably don't have to tell you what the Marmon-Herrington badge is worth, so before you do anything to it, you might want to just leave it as is.
     
    kidcampbell71 and Clay Belt like this.
  9. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    Try some toothpaste and toothbrush. Very mild abrasive and safe. You can get more aggressive if you want, but ease into it.

    I keep a tube of paste toothbaste in the toolbox, quick easy polish.

    Minty Fresh
     
  10. Lepus
    Joined: Nov 18, 2016
    Posts: 453

    Lepus
    Member

    If you're going to sand after painting, I would get a metal plate that's been milled or ground flat,tape some wet or dry emory paper down to it, (600 grit or finer to start with, so you don't remove too much metal while removing paint ) wet it, and keep it wet while sanding so it doesn't load up with paint. Try to keep the pressure even, and check often in case you are putting more pressure on one area, or the badge isn't perfectly flat. If you don't have a large flat plate, a piece of scrap about 2" square with one nice flat side with the emory paper wrapped around it works well.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  11. They do reproduce them but I don't know who they is. If you find out please let us know. marmon-herrington-emblem.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  12. What Winduptoy and Lepus said .
     
  13. str8axle63
    Joined: Dec 16, 2015
    Posts: 34

    str8axle63

    Thanks for all the reply going to try one or more? I'll post when done.
    I did see a guy on eBay selling replica's for $185 pr little high for me.
     
  14. I have a friend that collects State Farm Badges. I don't think he has a New Mexico one. Just wondering if it is something you would sell or if not, any idea where to get one?
     
  15. I just bought a brand new I.D. plate for a '52 AD Chevy truck I sold. The buyer was nervous about dealing with the truck title Nazis in his state. I told him "No problem. I'll just age the plate to the appropriate decade for you." He reported back that everything went smooth and the inspector didn't even squint at the tag.

    You know what a new one looks like. This the after shot......
    DSCN1494.JPG
     
  16. Sorry if this is a duplicate request but I am new to this page. I have a friend that collects State Farm badges and he doesn't have a New Mexico one. Is yours for sale? If not, any idea where I could find one? Thanks for your time.
     

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