Hot Rods Recipe for "Traditional" Model A coupe

Here's another $.02 for your collection. Sit back, have a couple beverages and use the search feature. Grab a pen and paper and take notes. Be honest with yourself about how you want to drive it, your budget and where you want to compromise on "traditional Style" to meet that goal. My current banger powered A is a pretty close pre war type of car. I don't honestly know how common the 2x2 intake and strombergs would have been at that time. It is fun around town but that's about it. Therefore I am building a flathead powered 32 frame for it with a modern 5-speed trans. It'll have the outward appearance of a mid century style hotrod, but have a little better drivability in theory. Like others have said, build what you want to suit you. The outside shell is a pretty simple task to make look the part.

 

I can't resist so I'll jump in!
There is a very good reason for looking at the old magazines if
you want to build to a period. If you pick a year or a couple
that you like, get the mags from those dates.
If you look at the cars you like and find out what
parts were used you can't go wrong because anything newer
than the newest year book didn't exist! If you read alchemy's list
it's really that way. You will find subtle but significant
differences even in the early '50s. Lots of things were tried.
Some wound up cooler than others. If you hang here,you have
tons of information available, for free. And most of the guys
are willing to share the info.
Basically, anything you will build has been built before.
And the info is all out there.
Like if you use a '32 frame with an A rear crossmember, and mount the
crossmember back, you can use a '36-'40 rear
and a stock spring. The rear will be lowered and the wheel will line up
great with the wheel well molding.
Good luck on your adventure!

 

Mr. Martino is definitely correct for a no compromise period correct style build. It takes more time than just throwing a question out here for all of us to opine about. Not to mention untold time hunting for the parts you want and time taken to recondition them to your standard. You have come to a good place to get a start. Not trying to argue with anyone here or to downplay your question. Just trying to help focus your plan a little. Have Fun!

 

Motor: 1996 geo metro
Transmission: model a
Frame:73 datsun pickup
Spindles: fabtech 3 inch lift spindles
Steering box: 1985 delorian
Backing plates: 1906 model t
Wheels: boyd coddingtons
Tires:bfg all terrain
Rear end: jag
Front axle: vw bug
Closed or open driveshaft closed shaft

 

HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Looks like you coupe was about to be made into a coupester by one of those Rat Rodders.
But okay l'II play by your rules.
Motor: Caddillac
Transsmission: Chevy PG
Frame: '32 Ford
Spindles: Buick
Steering box:'56 Ford F-1 Pickup
Backing plates: Buick finned aluminum
Wheels: steel
Tires: ???
Rear end: Banjo
Front axle: '32 Ford ( droped yourself)

 

Well, here’s my .02 worth...
Drop the front
Drop the back
Lose the fenders
40 Ford juice brakes
Steelies, no hubcaps or Kelsey Hayes 16s with bias ply 700/16s rear and 550/16s front.
39 tranny
Pre 50s = AV8 flattie.....or.....Late 50s= Desoto Hemi, 331 Caddie, 265/283 SBC or AV8 flattie
No shiny paint and little if any new chrome
Banjo steering wheel
Original bench seat with diamond tuck or tuck and roll
NO automatic tranny, and last but not least
Springy style registration holder wrapped around the steering column.

Fixin to do this myself, even as we speak....

Oh yeah, one more thing...WHAT THE HELL YOU BEEN UP TO TONY MARTINO

 

There is no "carved in stone" recipe for a Traditonal Model A outside of Following the Tardel book to the letter and even it has a few slight changes from the way they did things in the late 40's or early 50's that don't change the car but make it a better and more reliable driver without resorting to later model parts.
An absolutely period correct car that fits a 1947 Build is going to be a bunch different than a quite similar car built to match a 1953 build and a world different than a 1956 build. Main thing is that the 56 build would probably be running an overhead valve engine such as a Cad, Olds or Chrysler. That's why you go and buy those "little books" and hot rod And other magazines from the chosen time frame and do your homework as to what they ran at that time.
My 31 Victoria will come close to passing the 30 ft test and maybe even the 20 ft test for being reasonably faithful to being traditional. Flathead with old speed equipment, dropped I beam, either 35 wires or steelies but the steelies are starting to win the contest and it may have 15's rather than `16's more like a later 50's build. It won't have any blatantly new parts but is getting AC simply because a pair of 70 year olds who have been hot rodding for almost 50 years together have earned their creds for driving without. I've already done the road trip to Texas in 100+ heat with no AC and we don't have anything to prove.
That said I have no issue with going after the perfect period correct build with no components dating after a certain date. It's no different than restoring a vintage car back to it's exact showroom condition. You either hunt down original parts or exact reproductions and original vintage gets bonus points most of the time. I'd do it myself If I wasn't planning some serious road trips in my rigs. Meanwhile the nit pickers can stand back 20 ft.

'v

 

Hey Ron,
How the hell are you?
I'm in the middle of an OT Restoration.........
My house!
No car and no time to play!
Still scrounging parts but garage is full of no-auto stuff!!!
I'll be back in it soon.
Getting itchy!!!
Good to hear from you and great advice!!!

PS: Love the springy reggie holder!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Good to hear from ya. Im fine, retired 2 mos ago and lovin life..cant wait for your next project....oh yeah, I live by my recommendations.

 

Hey !
I like the rake/stance on the third from the top. What do you think have been done the frame? Someone know if theres a article/buildthread anywere to be found??? Like it a lot

 

Well, I went with what felt right! Still a work in progress but it's driveable.

Build:
47 59a flathead
Model Engineering trans adapter
40 crossmember
39 pedals
34 spoon pedal
34 steering box
47 Ford steering wheel
Dropped A axle
Reversed eye A front spring
Modified A spindles with 40 backing plates
41 rear axle
Open drive conversion
Tremec T170 TOD trans
31 A grill shell
32 JW Rod Garage rails
16" x 5" rear with Firestone 7.50s
16" x 4" front with Firestone 4.50-4.75s
5" chop
57 generator fields and commutator in 40 case
57 Tbird voltage regulator
Custom headers

I have an Edelbrock Slingshot and 2-97's ready to go, just looking for Edelbrock heads with block script.