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Technical Manual brakes question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dtwbcs, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    1960 Bel Air. Converted from 4wheel drum to disc up front. Dual manual master cylinder. Do I need to add residual valves?

    Thanks in advance,
     
  2. I am going to say no. Most newer masters have them built in, but since the master is higher than the calipers, you should be good to go. How does it stop? I used a Ford style disc/drum master when I did the conversion on my '59 Ford and it stops fine.
     
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  3. If you used one of those aftermarket "Corvette" style master cylinders and you may find you need to install a 10 psi residual for the rear brakes.
     
  4. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Residuals, either internally in the master cylinder or 10# external, are needed on older drum brakes, and will also benefit later ones.
     

  5. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    Ok so it won’t hurt to add them?have red and blue residual valves. I haven’t driven the car yet; was waiting for some feedback.
     
  6. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
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    The 10# valves are for drum brakes; the 2# valve is for disc brakes only when the master is located below the floor.
     
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  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,088

    squirrel
    Member

    I doubt you'll find a residual pressure valve in a disc/drum dual master cylinder. If you can, please show me a picture of one?

    Residual pressure valves seem to have gone away, in new cars, about 40 some years ago.
     
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  8. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,088

    squirrel
    Member

    I wouldn't add them, but I'm also an idiot....look what I drive! and with no RPVs.

    wheelie2017.jpg
     
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  10. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    All the late '60s/early '70s Ford disc/drum masters I have or have purchased recently have the drum residual in the rear brake port. Residuals did go away by the mid-'70s, mainly because of wheel cylinder cup expanders, but if you buy a vintage disc/drum master, the residual should be included.
    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,381

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You all handled the residual valve issue nicely, but what about the need for a proportioning valve on his disc/drum set up he just changed to?
    dtbbcs, did you add a proportioning valve to that new M/C?
     
  12. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't know of any master cylinders that did not have internal residuals for drum brakes, up to the mid '70s. Has nothing to do with bleed back on drums. Now, with discs and a master located below the calipers, the aftermarket 2# residual is sometimes needed.
     
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  13. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I recommend installing an adjustable proportioning valve in any disc/drum or disc/disc conversion or custom system.
     
  14. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    Not yet was going to see how the brakes act. I can put one on the front if you think it’s necessary;as I will have to add the residual valves also


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  15. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
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    The proportioning is installed in the rear system, not the front.
     
  16. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,381

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think you are going to need it, better to add it now than open the lines back up later and do it over. CPP makes a nice little PV that is adjustable and a bracket that makes it easy and attractive to add. JMHO
     
  17. Never mind I would have no idea what I am talking about, listen to the experts and I'll just bow out of this thread.
     
  18. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    Dumb question time. If I’m using the 10 on the rear end and 2 on the front why would I need the adjustable PR on the rear and not the front


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  19. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    Don’t you want to slow down the front from grabbing too soon


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile appto even the brakes
     
  20. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,275

    Budget36
    Member


    You want to keep the rear drums from locking up.

    The residual valve(s) is/are not for that purpose.
     
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  21. Relic Stew
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,209

    Relic Stew
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    That's a metering, or hold-off valve. It prevents pressure from going to the fronts until there is enough pressure to activate the drums. Disks start to work at about 5psi, but drums need as much as 100 psi. Activating the rear brakes first makes braking more stable.

    (random example) https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Brake-Metering-Hold-Off-Valve,8904.html

    The proportioning valve limits the maximum pressure to the rear. As the brakes slow the car, weight transfers off the rear wheels to the front. Limiting the rear pressure keeps the rears from locking up as weight comes off.

    Factory disk/drum cars have a combination valve. This includes the metering and proportioning valve in one unit. For a conversion, you'll probably have separate, adjustable units to dial the braking in.
     
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  22. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,495

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    I've learned how not to start..
     
  23. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member Emeritus
    from Iowa

    It would depend on your master cylinder. If it's a disc/drum MC then you don't need additional valves. If it's a disc/disc MC then you need one on the drum end.

    Proportioning valve controls how fast the rear's hit compared to the fronts.

    SPark
     
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  24. Yea I'm still trying to determine which windmill is worth my time. But some of them seem like such worthy opponents. LOL
     
  25. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    I am putting residual valves on both the front and rear lines . Do I need to put an adjustable proportioning valve on one or the other??
     
  26. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yup. Me too.

    I'm just a senior engineer at General Motors these days. What the hell do I know.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  27. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,381

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Please get some expert advice and follow their instruction. If you mess up a paint job no one dies, that is not true of brakes.
     
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  28. trollst
    Joined: Jan 27, 2012
    Posts: 2,108

    trollst
    Member

    Okay.....if you have a firewall mounted master, disc disc system, DO NOT ADD RESIDUAL VALVES. Got that?
    If you have a below the floor master, on a disc disc system, add a two pound residual valve in both the front and rear brake lines, it keeps very slight pressure on the calipers and stops fluid from travelling back to the master.

    In a drum brake system, a 10 lb residual valve keeps the cups inside the wheel cylinder pressurized so they don't leak. There should be one already in the rear brake port of the disc drum master, if not, add one.

    Firewall mounted masters are mounted high enough so that the fluid is slightly pressurized by gravity keeping the calipers from retracting far enough to stop excessive brake pedal travel.
    So....if you want your front brakes to drag and spend a long time pulling your hair out trying to figure out why, go ahead and install them, it'll be good for a laugh.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018
    bobss396 and deucemac like this.
  29. Don't add anything yet, IF your master has the res valve installed in the rear (smaller cup or pot) then you need NOTHING. To check, take off the line for the rear brakes, insert a un bent paper clip into the center hole and push in GENTLY.....you should feel a slight spring back if the res valve is inside. The reason I say to check is I've had a few rebuilt masters from parts stores that they were missing.

    After this you might still have a brake bias issue, with that you would use a prop valve.
     
  30. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    I went back to see what mc I have. It is a universal power/manual master cylinder 1" bore corvette style .Ported on both left &right sides.3/8"-24 openings on all 4 ports. Part # 9103447 at Speedway motors. Getting different responses here. Do I need the residual valves added and possibly an adjustable proportioning valve also?
     

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