Technical What's up with round axles...?

I'm with alchemy 100%

First note that we aren't trying to bust your chops

We are just trying to save you money and time. If the threads are junk on your spindles then by all means replace them.

Again alchemy is right on the spindle king pins. I do frame, suspension work every day for a living and over 35 years and I still prefer bronze bushings. Find a good local shop and have them ream new ones. Around 60 to 75 bucks.

I've played with lots of high tech stuff and a lot of it goes away and people revert back to what's tried and true and proven and bronze bushings are part of that.

Again alchemy is correct on heim joints. Make the car a pleasurable and fun experience not one that beats you to death on the road. Bushings are a lot more forgiving when things happen, curbs, speed bumps, pot holes etc.

It's better to have a car that handles and drives good that you want to drive every day then one you only want to drive on special occasions AND with that solid front axle those heim joints will make sure you feel every nook and cranny in the road....

 

Thanx...good info...
I would like to do the bushings myself and I am sure that I can with guidance...
Like I said...I have never done it...
So, to do that I would need a spindle/king pin kit that includes bushings...???

As far as the heim joints go, I had no idea that those adjustable ends even existed!
That is definitely the ticket!
Thank you so much for your guidance

 

Points well taken...thanx man

 

If you have a big vise and a socket set you can press the old bushings out and the new ones in. Make sure to line up the holes in the bushings with the zerks. You will need to have them honed to a hand-press fit on the kingpin by a machine shop with a long hone. A DIYer wheel cylinder hone won't do the job correctly. Both bushings need to be honed in line to get a perfect fit on the kingpin.

 

It seems like I have read on here where guys honed them themselves...???
And...ya...I have a big vise and plenty of tools and do all of my own work...
This whole "king pin" thing is just new to me...
I just need some guidance and I am sure I can do it...

 

If you have a special kingpin hone, sure you can do it yourself. Both bushings need to be concentric, so the tool needs to center in the opposite bushing as it cuts the other. If you do them one at a time you are wasting your time. They won't last as long because the clearances are loose. Search it and you'll find others agree.

 

Correct me if I am wrong but if I am replacing the spindles I will not have to do any honing/reaming...???
It is the spindles and NOT the axles that get reamed...right?
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1928-1948-Ford-Forged-Spindles-w-King-Pins,34489.html

Also...are the Super Bell spindles any better or are the Speedway ones as good...?

I noticed that it says "The Super Bell Ford spindles are a cast spindle. Our Speedway spindles number 91032104 are a forged spindle.:

It looks as tho the SBs might come with more shims etc...?
Maybe it's just the way the photos were taken...?
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Super-Bell-1928-1948-Ford-Spindles-w-King-Pins-Installed,6617.html

I also noticed Bronze shackle bushings...? Never heard of those before...Snake oil...?

 

If you buy new spindles with the kingpins fitted, you won't have any labor to hone the bushings.

Both those spindles say they are forged on the Speedway website, so they are hopefully equal quality. The only difference I can see is the location of the zerk. The Speedway brand has the zerk pointing straight in. The Superbell has them pointing to the front. What does your current setup use, and would a different direction zerk require different steering arms to give clearance? You need to look at your parts to determine.

I would bet (no money back guarantee though) that a kingpin kit includes a full set of shims, and the lock pin as well.

I've seen bronze shackle bushings and think they might be a good idea, but haven't used any yet.

 

The king pin set pictured, as well as many others, might only come with 3/8-24 nuts to retain the spindle locks.
If there are longer nuts that are made from a bigger hex stock and have a chamfered end already on your present set up then keep those. Those are the steering stops, when turned to full lock the spindle will contact them. If they are on there then keep and reuse them, if not then look into getting some.

 

Don't ever use a tube axle with split bones,just hair pins and 4 bars,these aftermarket axles are not designed to twist like a conventional I beam. HRP

 

My zerks point straight in as well...thanx!

 

Bronze spring bushings were standard fare on Duesenberg, Packard and many other high end cars of the 30s. I've seen some originals with very little to no wear on em and it's likely that automatic lube systems were the reason. Everything on the old stuff needs regular care, those cars usually always got well serviced.