Technical Taffy Pulled Dropped Axle

Guys I purchased a filled taffy pulled dropped axle and at some time during it's life someone has slightly wallowed out the bottom spring perch bolt holes or it possibly was made that way (Not Sure)? If not any suggestions on the best way to have it repaired or does it even need to be repaired? Thanks Guys and "Merry Christmas"!

 

Do you mean they stretched the holes when they dropped the axle? Will the perch pins fit?

 

A picture would help alot.

 

Well in the beginning the perch bolt holes were as tight as the King pin holes. Were I going to take on a repair as you've described it would mean setting the Axle up in the Mill, boaring out the hole to round. Pressing in a plug, welding it in place the re sizing it back to perch pin size.
The Wizzard

 

When they pulled your taffy did they heat the axle red hot ? ...
that will bake some carbon out of the steel making it shrink...
steel shrinking = larger hole ...

 

It was purchased at a swap meet years ago and I'm afraid I don't know the history. That could be it? Perch bolts fit tight at the top, don't really wiggle at bottom. When I inserted the perch bolts through the axle I just noticed the excess clearance around the bolt at the bottom hole? Is this common or does it need to be repaired? Thanks!

 

I thought you were talking about a axle like this. HRP

 

Sorry i cant tell you anything from personal experience. Ive heard of guys repairing kingpin bores. Perch pin bores importance would be different if they had the spring on top , in front or behind . Personally i would want very tight tolerances just because thats the way they were designed. Most times they are very hard to remove.
Are they wallowed out side to side or front to back?

 

In Factory form the wish bone loops that the perch bolts mount in have a taper in the top and bottom loops. The perch pin is tapered just below the shackle hanger and self centers in the top loop. As the matching nut that looks like a large lug bolt and is of Castle style tightens up everything comes into center as tightened. Just the shank of the perch bolt is a machine fit to the Axle. Aftermarket parts are not always the same.
The Wizzard

 

It will be fine when repaired as stated . Bore the axle ,bushing installed , weld , ream the finished busing to fit the perch bolt and drive it till the cows return home .


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Holy crap that's cool. Never seen one like that.

 

That bore is probably stretched longitudinally from the drop process. It is a common issue when an axle is dropped and I find that it’s occurrence is quite random. I always keep the heat directed away from the bores which helps to prevent this but sometimes there is no avoiding it. Perch bores are not a precision fit like kingpin bores as stated above but they should be snug. That egg shape damage is typically only about 1/2” or less on the bottom of the bore. I preheat a bit, tig weld it up, and redrill the bore round from the top side. Sleeving in this instance is unnecessary and time consuming and I reserve it for damaged kingpin bores on valuable axles. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the all the advice!

 

Throw it together and run it, not gona' move when it's all together.

 

If it was mine I would call Nostalga Sid in Oklahoma. He has been repairing axles since they were new!

 

You need to understand the dynamics of what is going on when you step on and release the brakes. The axle twists. So it is moving on the perch which acts like a pivot. If you haven't the tools or knowledge to fix it, send it to Sid.