Technical TH350 trans went out...searching for advise and recomendations

Sorry if it was mentioned.....make sure you blow out the trans cooler and lines. Just say'n.

 

Ya...I replaced the radiator with a nice alum one that has fittings for that in the bottom and I never hooked it up to those...
The plan is to eliminate the external cooler and use those...

 

double d has a good point. There isn't a real good way to clean out that trans cooler that's in the radiator. you can circulate solvent through it with a electric fuel pump but you cant see inside it to tell if its clean. I would get a aftermarket cooler and mount it behind the radiator. The transmission is designed to run at engine operating temp. That's where all the clearances are set up for when the expansion from the heat is present. Best thing for a automatic transmission in cold weather is go start the engine. Go back inside and eat breakfast or do something for a half hour before driving off.

 

Get the 400 and put it in. Don't worry about the short time since it has been rebuilt and sitting. I have a 400 in my 49 Buick that sat inside my shop with the engine for 25 years. It works perfect. Sounds like it should bolt up to the flex plate from what squirrel said.

 

The radiator has never had a trany hooked up to it and the fittings have been plugged since new...

 

lots of semi trucks have the steering collum between your feet. Sounds like a place for a hyd clutch release. I dunno if they are available for chevys but the newer case backhoes have a electric operated throwout bearing. just a thumb button on the top of the bucket control lever.

 

Even tho is has never been in a car....sitting in the garage...? Up north in New England...????? Plus, keep in mind that it is 1000 miles away so getting it here is also gonna cost me time and money...

 

Try Greyhound or Fastenall for shipping.

 

From reading this thread, I guess you should just buy a 350TH from Jegs or summit, and be done.

 

That is exactly what I am beginning to think....easy, dependable, fast...DONE

 

Hey squirrel...please do me a favor and check out the specs on these two items and tell me if you think these would be good choices for me and my application...
I think I have decided to go the easy, quick, dependable route...
Click, buy, install...done...
Anybody else care to have a look see and give me opinions would be great as well
Thank you to all that helped me make this decision....
I realize this is not the way some of you with more knowledge, time and better facilities would go but for me this works best...

 

I expect that trans and converter would work, although I would recommend about 2000 stall speed with the cam in the spec sheet for your engine.

Another thing...if you are planning to sell the car, then you probably ought to put an overdrive in it, either 200-4R or 700-R4. Seems that everyone who buys cars these days expects them to have overdrive, and won't buy something without it

 

Is a 200 a direct swap with my 350...?

what advantage will the 2000 stall give me...? I have no idea about stall speeds...
Would this be the one...?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/60402/10002/-1

 

The earlier suggestion about using a 2004R is what I would suggest. The 2004R AOT trans is the same size as a 350, they have a multiple bolt pattern so they will bolt to any GM engine. Like the 700R4, the 2004R does not require any electronics. The 2004R's had some problems in the early days, however they have been overcome. A 2004R can be built up to run behind a 500hp engine. I have one in my '49 Olds with a well built Olds V8.
The only problem with a AOD trans is you will have to possibly regear your rear end to about 325/350, depending on the tire size.
If you want to just "key and drive" your car, get a rebuilt 350TH and drive it till it drops.

 

Stall speed....that's when the converter fully engages, under load. With a longer duration camshaft, the engine runs rough and doesn't make much torque at low RPM, so you want to let the engine rev up a bit before the torque converter engages. A cam with 220 degrees duration at .050" lift will be running just fine at 2000 rpm, so you don't really want the torque converter slipping up to 2500 RPM, like the one you asked about, which is rated 2300-2700 stall.

 

Would this be the one...?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/60402/10002/-1

 

That's what I would pick for that engine.

You are a quick learner.

 

You said that traveling 2-3hrs to save on shipping is not an issue.Surely there is a shop within 2-3 hrs that can rebuild a 350.
As far as the 4 speed rebuild, today there aren't a lot of folks who CAN rebuild a 4 speed today.
keep us posted.

 

Thanx man....
So... Right when I think I have made up my mind someone brought up the 200...
That would NOT be a direct swap would it...?
Other things will have to be changed.....bought etc....????

 

Time is an issue as this is my daily driver....
The 4 speed worked fine but was shoddy....as I asked for it to look great as well because that was more of a car that I showed as well and they pretty much hosed it off and there were parts of it that were not even disassembled...
Just all round shoddy work....pretty much threw a kit in it and that was it...when I had told them cost was not an issue....it seemed like a "hurry up" job...

 

Daily drive is a whole different ball game. I would look close at craig list. 3 different lengths 350.Good luck

 

Length difference is all tailshaft....correct?
Mine is 6 inch.....
BTW....daily driver yes but this is my daily driver...

 

200-4R is the same length and output shaft as a 350, but the dipstick tube, crossmember location, shifter travel, and TV cable are different.

It also has a lockup converter, so it requires a power wire to lock it up.

 

The cases on those and TH400s were prone to cracking at the valve body. What is the problem with the existing one, how does the fluid look? Sometimes it can be as simple as a bad governor.

 

Yeah i think thats right. Coupe is cool. My daily driver for years was 59 el camino. if it broke i had to get it fixed quick.Just thinking that if you used the one that came out, should go back in quick . again best of luck

 

Any local or not too far away performance trans shops? Most of those will ship next day if they have a unit on the shelf.

 

I started hearing some faint crackling sounds.....a few days later it has started slipping...
Fluid looks and smells fine and is full...

 

I have a bunch of car buddies over in Spring Hill. I'm sure they'd be glad to help you get your trans. rebuilt. They do a lot of car building and I'm sure they have some good contacts. Would be cheaper, I'm sure. If interested, PM me and I'll put ya in contact with one of them. Paul

 

57 posts to this thread, and no answers from Floriduh!

 

Hi I see that you are in`Chobe.I was born and raised in Vero Beach.That`s only about 75 miles from you.So you have many choices to look at.North from Vero is Melbourne about 35 miles.Then South is Ft Pierce,then Stuart and West Palm Beach.Not that far to Tampa/St Petersburg and Orlando.WPB has from what I remember has a bunch of transmission shops and speed shops.So take your choice.You have many.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo