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Hot Rods T Bucket Interiors

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tfeverfred, Aug 12, 2017.

  1. Fred, you may want to use some #8 x 5/8" Phillips head sheetmetal screws, if the plywood is 3/4", on the backside to keep them in. If you assemble and disassemble multiple times you may push one of them out.
     
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  2. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Pictures or it didn’t happen Fred ;) :D
     
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  3. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Pictures? Yes, and a little text, as well!:D

    Okay, here's the installed lag bolts. On the back, since it's a little longer, I used 5 on each leg. I used 4 on each leg of the bottom. They screwed in very securely. The images of the tee nuts, long forgotten. Later today, I'll trim the excess material for a cleaner look.
    [​IMG]

    Next, I installed a center brace. I used one longer than Rotten Leonards because it just seemed right. Over kill? Maybe.
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    And finally, the finished seat.
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    And installed.... temporarily.
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    "ARE YOU NOT ENTERTAINED!?" - "The Gladiator"
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2017
    brEad, patmanta, Blue One and 3 others like this.
  4. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,485

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    That seat is killer! Well done Fred.
     
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  5. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 5,640

    atch
    Member

    Well done. We'll be awaiting the finished car when you can road test the seat and tell us how comfy it is on a long drive.
     
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  6. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,716

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Fred, the seat base looks very good, the back needs to be restretched so it looks as good as the base does! :)
     
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  7. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    It actually is, but where the bottom and top piece meet, they're REALLY squished together. I should have left a little gap between the two. Again.... the learning continues.
     
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  8. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    It's not stable enough now, to sit on it, but I pushed my hand down where the webbing is and it gave enough to let me know that there is a nice amount of "cush", even beyond what the foam provides. So, it should be good on a drive.
     
  9. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    So, I've been checking seat height and angle. I had my seat all the way back, but when I sat in it, it seemed like I was sitting straight up! Couldn't figure out what the hell was going on. Then, I remembered a while back, that I raised my rear shocks to the highest setting, fearing that the body may be too wide for tire clearance. This had given me a bigger rake. So, today I dropped the shocks to the lowest level (5" below axle center), have plenty of tire clearance and my seat angle is about 13 degrees and feels good. All is right in the world.:)

    That got me feeling good, so I ordered the material for the body panels. I ordered twice what I should need, because honestly, doing the panels is feeling like they're going to be a real bitch. The inner lip of the body starts out at about 5/8" deep on the passenger side and as it goes along towards the back, it becomes a little deeper. In the middle of the back, it's 3/4". Goes to 5/8" after the other curve, then widens to 1" at the door.

    So, I figure I can go with 1/4" thick wood strips along the top edge and since I was going to use a thin layer of foam on the panels, add more foam where the lip gets wider. I think 1/4" wood strips would be enough for the screws that will hold the upholstery. I plan on using 1/8" Luan for the panels. As for the rear curved areas.......... I'm still not sure what I'm going to do, but I have a few ideas.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2017
  10. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Hmm.......on second thought, I think I can go with 1/2" wood strips. More meat for the screw threads.
     
  11. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,716

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Good idea! :D
     
  12. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Got off work and loaded up on supplies for the side and back panels. What I didn't get, I priced and noted the location. I plan on building the base for my seat tonight.
     
  13. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    The classic rock station on the radio came through. I had already measured and marked my wood. A T Bucket base is pretty simple, so I didn't take any assembly pics. It's just a matter of planning and putting it together so it's strong. I used 3/4" plywood for the middle piece. 3/4" yellow pine for the back and side pieces. Those pieces were attached to 2 x 4's front and rear. I used the 2 x 4's as an anchor for all the other pieces. I installed corner braces in all the corners. I also cut a hole in the lower side of the middle and side pieces, in order to run my wiring through to the fuse box, which will be installed in one of the compartments.

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    Later today, I'll paint it black and call it done!
     
  14. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 5,640

    atch
    Member

    "I see your red door, I want it painted black
    No colors any more, I want them to turn black..."

    "...I could not foresee this thing happening to you..."
     
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  15. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    And now, wallet talk. My choice for bucket seats would have been $425 for a pair. My DIY bench seat came to about $250. Half of that was for Rotten Leonard's seat brackets. So, I think I did very well. The bucket seats would have looked better than my DIY seat and they may find their way into my car one day. But for now, I'm very happy with what I have.
     
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  16. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,015

    belair
    Member

    "Quality is king, but price is God," and "poor people got poor ways." You're not cheaping it out, you're being frugal and learning. Glad to see some progress. Is this thing going to be on the road this summer?
     
  17. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,299

    upspirate
    Member

    If you take a sheet of vinyl, fold over the edges and staple around the edges, it'll cover up the bare plywood and improve the backside looks,Also, you could cover the base support with vinyl to match the seat or carpet to match the floor
     
  18. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    I'm waiting for the new vinyl to show up. I was surprised I ordered just enough for the seats the first time. I trimmed the excess vinyl this afternoon, so it doesn't look as bad, as the pics I posted already.
     
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  19. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    My target is Thanksgiving 2018. In time for Houston's Autorama. Not that I'll enter, it's just a realistic goal.
     
  20. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,015

    belair
    Member

    When you're ready for paint, and if you need some help, let me know.I might be able to shake loose and lend a hand some weekend.
     
  21. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Will do, thanks!
     
  22. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

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  23. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Seat base is painted. BLACK! Supplies for the panels are forth coming.
     
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  24. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    And the seat base is done.

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    [​IMG]
     
  25. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,299

    upspirate
    Member

    Looks nice,but I think I'd still cover it with matching vinyl.Of course the extra weight might.......
     
  26. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    My thinking is it will rarely be seen by anyone but me. I painted it mainly to protect it.
     
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  27. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Slight delay on the stainless steel screws and cup washers. They didn't charge my card until today.o_O Hopefully, it will ship tomorrow. On the flip side, the foam arrives tomorrow.:D
     
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  28. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Today. I'm going to hunt down some cardboard and plan out the interior panels.
     
  29. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Well, using cardboard I made templates for the interior panels and the door. The first thing I noticed, was that I ordered a LOT more material than I'll need. So, I've got enough to screw this up a few times.:D I'll still need 3M Adhesive for attaching the wood pieces to the body, but I'll get that, when I get the Luan or ABS sheet. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do about the corners, but I'll make up my mind soon.

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    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    patmanta likes this.
  30. Have you thought about just putting some metal tabs made out of l shaped material around the perimeter of the body so you could use hidden upholstery clips rather than screws for the installation of the panels? It would look a lot cleaner.
     

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