Technical Sealing a ground bond

What is the preferred method to seal a ground bond? I've used a bonding brush to clear primer and paint from the area where a ground terminal will attach, so that a good connection can be made. What is normally used to protect the exposed bright metal not covered by the terminal? I'm thinking clear nail polish or spray bomb paint - any recommendations?

 

or grease.

You live in a relatively dry area, don't you? shouldn't take much. I never bother putting anything over electrical connections, I live in the southwest.

 

Why clear away the finish only to repaint it again. Everything around the grounds should be clean and bare metal. Star washers help dig into both the bare frame and one side of the terminal ends. I'd also use some sort of conductive grease or perhaps some of that green battery terminal coating that Interstate sells. Gary

 

Synthetic di-electric grease works well. Probably for 2 years before needing touch-up. Super Lube is one good one.
Marcus...

 

FLEX SEAL Saying it as loud as i can.
seriously, paint will do fine or por 15.

 

Star washers ... tight connections ... quality fasteners ...

 

Conductive anti seize made for electrical stuff and battery post.

 

I use dielectric grease. Comes in a little can with an applicator brush built into the can's lid like anti sieze.

 

Pretty dry climate here - not worried about anything rusting through - at least not in my lifetime! Never thought about using grease because of it collecting dirt. These are the main frame, body and engine ground points and my thought was to keep water from seeping between the terminal and bare steel. Looks like the dielectric grease will be it. Thanks for the replies.
Don

 

If you're concerned about grease making a mess, just leave it bare. If you keep the car inside and don't drive it in wet weather too much, it should be fine. Stay away from Bonneville, and don't drive to Michigan in the winter time.

 

Copper shield..

 

Permatex High-Tack gasket sealer or Aviation sealer... Absolutely the best stuff I've found for sealing electrical connections from corrosion on a car. Both are a bit messy and stay slightly tacky indefinitely (the Aviation dries a bit more), but if you get all the surfaces spotlessly clean when assembled, 'painting' the assembled joint will stop corrosion from forming (do at least two coats). You do have to make sure the ENTIRE joint is coated. I've used it on battery terminals, and they have stayed clean for years (usually for the life of the battery).

It is nasty to clean off though, the only downside.

 

Boeshield T-9

https://boeshield.com/products/

 

^. This. Use the aluminum anti seize. It help make the connection, the aluminum provides some galvanic protection and the grease helps seal the water out. Only down side is it messy. I'm in the north east. If you don't do this in a couple of years both the metal and the copper connector will corrode enough to lose the ground. Chasing bad grounds is not a fun job.

I always put a little Vaseline in electrical connectors to keep the corrosion from later causing a bad connection. .


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

A threaded hole with -
• clean threads
•dielectric grease
•star washers
Will be no problems for years and years.

 

Believe it or not Hair spray is best for battery cables hot or ground.

 

I am not too keen on using star washers in electrical connections as I think they reduce surface area of the connection and provide voids for moisture and corrosion to develop. Coating the completed bolted connections, as discussed in several posts above, is my preferred choice. Depending on location of the connection, I have used dielectric grease, gasket sealer and weld-thru primer at various times. For spade and bullet connectors, I use dielectric grease.

Ray

 

A terminal attached to a threaded hole with clean threads and adequate torque on the bolt will be fine for years, without star washers or goo on it.

adding stuff might make it last forever, which is longer than I'll be around.

 

NO-OX-ID "special", a tube or can should last years. I bet if it was thinned out and sprayable it would be a good rustproofing.

IT's cheap, and really works. Used to be required for Ma Bell electrical connections. Good for using on grounds and general anti-corrosion on bolts and fasteners too. Model train guys swear by it for the track.

Http://www.sanchem.com

 

Have a look at how they do it on aircraft- if it's good enough for Boeing, it's good enough for me.

 

In the factory they used a terminal that had the star made into it. A hole a sheet metal bolt are screw. It lasted for years and worked fine.

 

I take a stainless steel bolt of appropriate size and heli-arc the head to the frame. You will have a non corrosive stud to attach to. I always use a brass nut and some dielectric grease to seal it up.
Zero grounding issues/problems on numerous cars.

 

I can almost agree with this other than hairspray is water soluble.

 

This is a great idea. And for those of us that live in salt areas, the factory method does not last for long. Copper terminals against steel in salt results in significant galvanic corrosion and intermittent and poor connections. I have personally seen it result in all kinds of computer related problems on newer cars. (Probably not a problem here though).


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

What welding rod do you use that is compatible with mild steel (frame) and stainless bolt? Nickle?

Ray

 

309 stainless

 

Not sure if Ohio is the salt Capitol or not but they use plenty in the winter. Generally I find corrosion on the cable inside the lug and a few inches up the insulation. And hot rods hide when the salt is out.

 

Any SST welding rod will work including mild steel rod. The disadvantage with steel rod is that it will rust. But you are already painting the frame anyhow.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

309L Stainless is good for cast iron repair but is extremely hard to drill ( carbide bit) and even harder to Tap a quarter turn at a time and lots of lube.

 

Wish I had a nickel for every stainless anchor welded to a mild steel shell.
308 will stick but fail, 7018 will stick but fail, the 309 rod's weld will outlast both.

V