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Technical Shavings in new motor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Master Brian, Aug 18, 2017.

  1. Master Brian
    Joined: Apr 10, 2017
    Posts: 144

    Master Brian

    Approx 500 miles on fresh 350 sbc with flat tappet cam. If anyone recalls I had oiling issue at break in, so went through 15-20+ quarts of oil and two-three filters to get to this point. Ended up being an oil pump issue, but machinist never saw anything concerning during that period.

    I'm running the stock idiot light and an aftermarket electrical oil gauge. My gauge generally reads about 25psi on general driving, if I really get on it, she jumps up to 50ish. The last few times out, I've heard a small squeal at times, but gauge reading normal. I've also at idle and backing into drive noticed gauge seemed to dip really low, almost to nothing, then jump up if I rev the motor.

    The idiot light never comes on, minus key in ignition and motor off. I also had to build a fiberglass fan shroud as I couldn't find one to fit. It's normally About 1/4"-1/2" off the flex fan engine off, but I noticed it seemed to settle a little and the fan has rubbed it a bit and put small groove on inner side. I'm actually thinking maybe that's the squeal, but haven't confirmed. Engine makes no other sounds and absolutely no lifter noise.

    I drained oil and changed filter tonight. The magnetic plug had some shavings, but no large chunks and I didn't seem to catch anything when strained through paint filter. I also cut filter and didn't really see much. If I rubbed a magnet through, I might pick up tiny particles.

    Should I be worried? When should I check oil again?

    Btw...I tried lifting shroud back up to see if I can get it to clear, if not I'll pull shroud and do some more clearance work.
     
  2. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,275

    Budget36
    Member

    Who assembled the engine?
     
  3. Master Brian
    Joined: Apr 10, 2017
    Posts: 144

    Master Brian

    I assembled it. Just started engine after change, pressure good and idiot light did stay on split second after start so it obviously works. It's never done that, that I recall at least not unless oil change.
     
  4. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,275

    Budget36
    Member

    Did you clean out all the oil passages before assembly? Shops never do (least the ones I've used) when you take something in and just have them machine it.
     

  5. TVC
    Joined: Jun 21, 2017
    Posts: 68

    TVC
    Member

    Realistically, no shaving is too small and those oil pressure readings are a signal of bad things to come. Pull the crank, have it checked and replace all of the bearings. Why risk it for a few dollars worth of bearings and a little time.
     
  6. Master Brian
    Joined: Apr 10, 2017
    Posts: 144

    Master Brian

    Everything was cleaned. I actually built this engine twice before it ever ran. Machined twenty years shop for a vehicle that I sold before installing engine, so tore it down and put it back for current vehicle. So basically gone through thoroughly twice.
     
  7. use oil with zinc in it for startup, the new oils will grind your cam flat, old style zinc oils will help breakin.
     
  8. Master Brian
    Joined: Apr 10, 2017
    Posts: 144

    Master Brian

    Broke in with comp cams break in oil. Just added Lucas hot rod oil.should be good on oil.
     
  9. small amounts of metal in fresh motors is normal
    what RPM for the oil pressure readings?
    my fresh 350 with stock oil pump reads around 15-20 at idle around 750-850 RPM and 48-52 cruising at 2500 RPM (readings with engine warm)
    it will hit 60 on a rev
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2017
    Hnstray and loudbang like this.
  10. If I remember correctly, GM recommended 35psi at 1500 rpm as normal
    the light comes on below 6 psi
     
  11. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Crap had to come from somewhere. That almost nothing on the oil pressure deal would scare me. Something is amiss I think. If I don't have at least 30 on the guage always I freak. It's not going to miraculously repair itself And get better I don't think. JMO.
     
  12. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Anthony you snuck in on me! I agree with you a SMALL amount of something in the oil on a new engine is tolerable. Better not be anything over negligible though. Lippy
     
  13. what color are the 'shavings'
    dull grey metal ones are normal
    the copper/brass ones usually are not good
    post a pic
     
    loudbang likes this.
  14. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,275

    Budget36
    Member

    If they are sticking to the magnet, it's not going to be bearings...
     
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  15. Master Brian
    Joined: Apr 10, 2017
    Posts: 144

    Master Brian

    Sounds about where my readings are.

    Didn't get pic, had gloves on and too hard to unlock phone like that. Fingerprint reader and all... DON'T recall them being shiny out brassy looking. My understanding is some are normal on fresh motor, but still worries me. I'll check the filter more and maybe stick magnet in oil that I filtered.
     
  16. Master Brian
    Joined: Apr 10, 2017
    Posts: 144

    Master Brian

    Then that makes me feel better. Because if I got nothing in the paint filter, so I'm hopeful the squeal isn't a bearing. Wasn't there on drive tonight. So what causes the shavings? I'm guessing cam, pistons, etc mating with the surfaces.
     
  17. drive the crap out of it then
     
  18. Master Brian
    Joined: Apr 10, 2017
    Posts: 144

    Master Brian

    I do my best!
     
    anthony myrick likes this.
  19. every fresh motor I have messed with, even crate engines have dull gray metal in the first oil change or two
    the factory uses a magnet for a reason
     
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  20. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,275

    Budget36
    Member

    I've lost a few mains and rods in my time, never heard one squeal,,,squealing is usually something outside the engine, alt bearing, water pump, belt, etc.
     
    Master Brian and tommyd like this.
  21. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    I'd hook up a direct reading oil pressure gauge and see what readings you get.

    Gary
     
  22. I always remove a valve cover and look at the oil puddled on the head on a fresh engine. This tells you what is traveling with the oil. I dropped my oil & filter after my cam break-in, saw some stuff and this is normal. I have 4000 miles on it now, no issues of any kind. My oil pressure is 40 at idle (cold) and as low as 20 at idle (hot). On the road at speed it runs between 32 and 38 depending on how fast I'm going.
     
  23. 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPMs.....
    depending on your bearing clearance you should have 20 to 30 PSI at idle
    Squealing could be from dry rocker arms......
     
  24. so the 10 psi per 1000 rpm 'myth' means 7.5-8 psi at idle
    Smokey used this 10psi x1000 rpm rule at higher rpm use in performance engines
    if GM took back every SBC that didn't have 20 PSI at idle, we would have very few to play with
     
  25. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    I would also like to have $5 for each and every SBC that guys chased a low idle oil pressure issue. If it meets the 10 psi per 1000 rpm, I'd drive the wheels off it.

    Gary
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  26. Fitty Toomuch
    Joined: Jun 29, 2010
    Posts: 328

    Fitty Toomuch
    Member
    from WVa

    A squeal can definitely come from inside a motor, hopefully not your case, cause there will be a lockup.
     

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