So I'm rebuilding a 1952 8BA for a future AV8 project. I have the original 6v generator but no idea if it works. I would love to use it but on 12 volts. Can my electric guy convert it to 12v? Can he convert it to an alternator? Do I care if it's a generator or alternator? Clearly I have a lot to learn - anyone care to school me? Thanks, Carl
Assuming your AV8 is a basic hot rod, the generator will have sufficient output and be fine. A rebuilder can check it out and rebuild the mechanical parts, convert for 12v (also need 12v regulator), and you are set. You want to keep the generator for appearance in an open engine compartment on an old flathead powered hot rod. In mid-50's, when the OEMs converted from 6v to 12v they used generators up until alternators became popular in the mid 60's. An alternator is required when you have more electrical draw and need the extra capacity. You can't make a generator into an alternator. Some people have stuffed real small alternators into a generator case, but it is a poor solution. If you really want the extra capacity, there are aftermarket new alternators that look similar to a generator case.
I vote altenator. After converting a couple Ford generators to 12 volt on a couple of flat head cars (a 32 and a 49) we still had charging problems. We run electric fans and etc. Got tired of the fight and installed a Powergen alternator on both cars. Bingo! Problems solved. They are pricey but look like an old style generator.
Cederholm, I've been combing the Internet, trying to find non-contradictory instructions for converting a 6V flathead generator into a 12V generator. The basic idea is replacing the 6V field coils with 12V coils (such as can be found in early Falcons and Mustangs - reportedly '60 to '64). Replacing the brushes and bearings at the same time is a good idea. But if you search long enough, there is a lot of chatter about armature shaft lengths, three-wire vs. two-wire generators, 12V armatures, output ratings, etc. Maybe someone reading this thread can provide the whole story and convince us he's right.
I rolled over and went Powergen. I want a bitchin sound system in an otherwise period looking car. Hidden of course. My resistance was their first entries and reported failures but they seem to have worked it out. I'll let you know in a year or so...
I have a car with a generator again. It's so fun...you get to deal with stuff that alternators let you ignore. and we also figured out how to power the killer (not hidden) sound system. But solar engergy is probably off topic here. And it looks like shit.
I call it impression of needs. We are surrounded by technology, and assume we can't function with out this or that. No one could have driven more miles and driven more recklessly than I did when I was young. We didn't think about the fact that our cars were 6 volt, or that we had internal expanding brakes. If you are building an old car, treat it like an old car. Put all new electrical components in it, with plenty of ground straps, and go have fun. There's no cooler sound than a flatty starter on 6 volts. Remember people drove there cars every day in the past, and never thought twice about how many volts their electrical system had. Really, as mentioned in a prior post the manufactures went to 12 volt systems when overhead engines were developing more compression, and cubic inches. Your flathead will be perfectly happy on 6 volts and a generator.
My brother and I ran F1 trucks for years, we ran 12 volt systems.... Took the starter to the shop, he said the 6 v. will do fine with 12 v.... Yeh it does, but it slams the side of the flywheel quite hard, does so because it gets twice the push down the starter shaft... It would jam the starter gear teeth into the ring gear, kept a thick, dull screwdriver in the glovebox that would pry the starter out of the ring gear... loosened the bolts, tapped the screwdiver between the starter and motor with a hammer or rock, whatever, to force the starter gear off the ring-gear ... Brother had his ring gear welded on, years later when we pulled the motor one of the welds was cracked... IMO... taking you foot off the clutch while starting helped... why, who knows . . Today I would have the starter rebuilt to turn slower if possible, as I still love the sound of the old 6 volt engaging the ring gear...
A good starter/generator/alternator shop can change it to 12 volt as a couple of the guys mentioned. 38Chevy454 hit the main points. 1. appearance if you are shooting for that perfect traditional period correct look. 1. draw/ load meaning what accessories do you plan to run right down to what headlights are you going to run? The main reason car manufactures went from generators to alternators in the early 60's because the loads and demands on the systems were higher. AC, sound systems, electric windows and what not. A plain little flathead powered car with maybe and AM-FM hidden in the glove box with a couple of speakers, no ac and no other electrical accessories can get along great with a generator unless you get stuck in heavy traffic at night with the headlights on and then the lights may draw more amps than the generator can put out at and idle. If you have been to or go to cruise nights it is easy to spot the cars with generators at night as when the engines slow down the lights get dimmer. Speed up the engine and the lights get brighter. Us old farts lived with that all the time back when we primarily drove cars with generators. No biggie to us then and not a big deal now unless we want a few accessories that draw more power than a generator can put out. I have seen guys who cruise around with a generator car at night with a sound system kicking out sounds and the headlights on actually have the battery go dead while they were driving because the lights and sound system drew more power than the generator put out. One reason back in the day we would leave the cruise loop and go out on the highway to "clear it out" along with the engine loading up, blasting up the highway charged the battery back up.
Unlike alternators, generators are cutout at low RPM to prevent backfeed, the entire electrical system, lights and ignition, is dependent on the battery at those times. Vintage cars are more prone to weak and sulfated batteries because they aren't usually driven very often and might only have a weak surface charge. Best to have a large battery with plenty of a-h reserve capacity.
No question that the alternator is a better, more efficient, more reliable unit but a local rebuild shop can convert your 6V to 12 V. You use the starter as is, buy a 12V regulator and a 12V coil and your in business. That is my exact plan for my truck when my coupe is done, unless something fails first.
Unless you hook up a battery backwards an alternator is pretty much fool proof. Two big problems with generators brushes and reverse current cutouts are gone with alternators.
The best part of an old car, is treating it like an old car. You guys on HAMB know that. Don't be influenced with well meaning drive ability suggestions or you'll end up with a street rod.
The good ol US of A won WWII with only generators....just say'n. If it were easy, women and little kids would be doing it Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
On A 37 chev pick up i had, with 12 volt gen, I put 2 6 volt batteries in parallel, took the starter power from the first and ran the headlights etc off the last. Just had to swap them around once and a while to keep them even Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
This roadster has 12volts, with a flathead 6 volt converted generator. All the early 60's stuff fits, pick up a 12volt, 30amp regulator and you good to go.
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