I am rebuilding my 392 hemi I purchased a set of best gaskets with the neoprene rear seal it seems to fit well in the bearing cap or around the crank itself but when I install it in the block the ends sit below the surface like the grove is machined too big or deep .My builder said to clean it well put in some rtv silicone set the seal into it and leave the ends slightly protruding let the silicone harden then install the cap. he said he has had to do this on a coulpe of BBC and had sucess has anyone else had this problem I am not a big fan of the rope seals Thanks
According to my Hemi book, it will look like it fits but it really doesn't. It goes on to say that the rope seals are fine, but if you want neoprene Junior Thompson sells the correct ones. Good Luck!
What do they mean it will look like it fits but it doesn't the Best gasket set says it its for the 392 does junior have a catalogue to order from
You most likely have a FE Ford seal. Racers have been using them for years by setting them in silicone. I have heard of a few guys making a metal holder.
The rear seal i got from best gasket came with a strip of paper to shim it to the correct hight and directions.
Ok, had to look it up because my memory bank is failing. It says that a 440 MoPar seal is commonly used to substitute for the 392 rope seal. The shaft diameters are the same but the outside diameter and the shape of the groove in the block and cap are different. You can fill the void with silicone or call Junior, which is what I plan on doing. Here is a link for him. http://www.jrthompson.net/jrtcatalog.html
Not sure what is up with the Best Seal they have some pretty good stuff. I am using there head gaskets and really like them but the rest of my gaskets are Victor which can be ordered through your local NAPA dealer and if I remember correctly they do have the correct neoprene replacement for the old rope seal.
I recently used that Best seal with the "paper" spacer. I admit I had a raised eyebrow when I got it especially when I saw that paper shim, but tried it anyways. So far so good. I was also concerned with the knurl, but that too has seemed to be a non-issue thus far. I've also had pretty good luck with the rope seals - getting them right can be a challenge though.
My best seal was in a complete gasket kit there was no papershim included how thick was the paper if you put it in without it did the seal ends sit below the mating surface. \did it include2 shims one for the cap and the other for the block
I'm going off memory, but I'd venture a guess that it was .030"-.040" thick. It went around the entire OD & yes the ends were flush to the caps when installed - however I think you're supposed to offset them (rotate then a little) not sure it that is 100% necessary, but it makes sense so that's what I do.
Damn wish I had read this when I was doing the paper shim thing on my 392. So far 1200 miles and 4 quarts have piddled out. Looks like the rear main seal. I used the paper but it was still loose I thought. Wish I had used rope but now the crank is in so I will call Junior. Maybe a real rubber one can be worked in from under the car.
Still no leaks? I'm getting ready to replace mine for the 4th time. I replace, begins little leaking immediately, finally gets so bad, have to replace again. I have checked the crank, can not detect any burrs or groves, but of course I am checking while crank still in the engine?
...the EarlyHemi blocks were not designed or machined for the modern lip seal so why expect that just because someone sells one labeled as such that it will work? This is an old subject and still has no perfect solution other than scrounging the swap meets for some of the old rope. The 'new' rope is junk. .
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