Technical Extra cooling at the pull of a cable ?

Has anyone used a choke style push pull cable to open the valve to a coolant reserve ?
I intend to run [2] 5' sections of 1/2" copper tubing along the right frame rail, under the subfloor, with rubber hose conecting the trailing ends... With one leading end running to a choke cable operated valve blocking one lane out of the water pump to heater TEE, the other copper tube runs to a TEE in the heater's return hose...
Open the valve when I need a shot [maybe a quart] of cooler coolant...
The system should cool slightly when left open, buddy says a power steering cooler or motorcycle radiator at the rear...
Any tips before i start ?

 

How about a heater core. Still with no airflow it wont help. If you are getting hot going down the road you need more radiator. If only at a stop you need more air.

 

Hmmmm......huh ? What?

A shot of coolant?

I'd get a new radiator....if that doesn't solve your cooling problems, a shroud and when all else fails an electric fan.

Don't over complicate it !


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I have......coming across Utah, Wyoming and Nebraska in mid July in a beater 65 chevy pickup with a half plugged radiator. The temp gauge pegged 'till I turned on the heater full blast. It stayed half a needle off being pegged. Vent windows turned around backwards directing cool 100 degree heat on me and my dog. Wasn't pleasant but I had someplace to be. The heater core is really just an auxiliary radiator with it's own fan.

 

^This

 

This idea sounds like mickey mouse style engineering to me.
Do as suggested and build a proper cooling system and there will be no need for such odd ideas.

 

My Dad rigged up a little pump, reservoir and a spray bar that sprayed (misted) water on the front of the radiator on his old Ford that we used for towing our boat on vacations. It worked pretty well but it might be a little messy for a hot rod.

 

A creative Idea but I'm thinking it will not do much. Its air flow passing over the cooling fins that removes heat. I would suggest a 4 row industrial core copper /Brass radiator . My buddy's and I have had great success with these along with distilled water and a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. You will be lucky to get to 180 on a hot day !!! No antifreeze unless you live where it freezes . In the summer antifreeze is the main cause of overheating in hot rods. One trick that will work if you do not want to try a new radiator. I rigged up a water misting system on my '40 Plymouth flathead I had years ago. Use a reservoir of at least a gallon to a electric high pressure pump then run a copper line to misting nozzle pointed at the outside front of the radiator. I used a small windshield washer pump and a trickle system and it lowered the temp from 220 to 180 in a few minutes. A high pressure spray is a better cleaner setup than the drip but both are guaranteed to work.


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Not to say it doesn't get warm in Maine,,but I'd say you have a radiator/water pump/flow problem,,,,

 

You trying to compensate for a poor coolant system?
A lot of work for little result.
Spend your time working on the actual problem.


..

 

......................"The things you kids get into!"

 

Hmm, like nitrous for your cooling system? A little bump.

Fix the real issue, cooling system should be large enough to handle all driving conditions.

 

poorly worded question... was asking for advice from someone who had done similar.. ?
when i crest a hill and find that there is 1/4 mile backed up at the tolls temp goes up as the engine has been running at 65 mph or better and now is at zero, block is hot and water flow slowed... 8 lanes of blacktop hundreds of car exhausts, the air temp isn't 85* any more.... that is when i want that shot of extra coolant to help the block temp cool to idle temp... don't care what the 215* is better say... i don't like 205*
i have a new alum A radiator, no hoodtop, and SBF so it should cool ok... but while the body is off is the time to prepare for those times you might need it... and yes i've used a heater and windows before...

 

Any tips before you start?

Just one. Don't start. It's a fruitless idea.

 

You really think a quart of water is going to solve your issues? About 30 seconds into the radiator the water you add will be at equal temperature. Fix the problem and forget the Mickey Mouse engineering.

 

I would think you'd be better off running a couple of large heater cores, or motorcycle radiators, somewhere under the car, for auxiliary cooling, but the valve thing and cable is no different than cable operated heater controls used forever. Do it.

 

I would go with the misting method as well if you're looking for a relatively quick and easy solution. Basically using a secondary windshield washer system with the nozzles pointed at the radiator. I was planning on doing this on an ot jeep that I had that would get hot during trail rides. When it would get got I would hop out and spray the radiator with waterand out would cool down pretty quick. Got rid of it before I could instal a system though.

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x2

 

Maybe a couple of lengths of fin tube like they use in base board home heating!
KK

 

I like the idea, just use a remote heater core.
Or, get a small oil cooler.

 

did that to get a car to the junk yard. Took the washer nozzles and pointed them at the radiator. Not a long term solution.

 

Properly fix the systemic problem.

 

Sounds like a lot of work for very little effect. If you want to increase the effect you need to increase the heat transfer efficiency, i.e. some kind of fins on those tubes to transfer the heat from the tubes to the air.

 

Why not us a oil cooler to cool the oil which in turn cools the motor.

 

I'm with dirt t on this one.

 

Proof that they walk among us, and they bred.

 

Just another engineering work around to solve a problem that wouldn't exist, if it was built right in the first place.

 

A proper cooling system will easily deal with the above scenario. It sounds like you are still in the build stage, so why do you think you'll have an issue? You even say "it should cool OK", so why the worry?

 

I use a choke cable (push pull) to a 5 gallon Jerry can of gas in my trunk. When I run out of gas I simply pull the cable and have 5 more gallons!