Am I getting this right? 1. Flux core machine... 2. Using solid wire... (without shielding gas)... While I really ain't much of a welder, I think it might be hard to get pretty welds this way, no matter the technique....
another good place to have a look at good welds is on heavy equipment, like backhoes, loaders, fork lifts, as for flux core wire along with a gas it is used where weld strength is critical, like high pressure pipe, what size wire are you useing, i would say no larger then .023, also try and plug your machine directly into an outlet, no extension cords. and not to much gas, just enough to keep from getting porosity.
he said chicago welder. i have six of them in the shop that i bought for 10 bucks at an auction.they were all new and have never worked....
Not a good example here (could be used on truck frames), but I thought I would include it, as it is a common weld on buildings and bridges. You spend most of the day getting the edge beveled. The zig-zag is very popular on jig-welded auto frames. The bead looks really nice when your done, and people will always comment on how nice it looks (as opposed to stacked dimes torch look). Dennis Taylor did his Willy's frames this way, and speed is fast, you're done in a jiffy. You really need a 220 welder with adjustable voltage and wire speed. The min/max, or hot/cold is not going to be useful over the long run.
Did they show the finished weld? A lot of times, you can't see any movement in the videos but they actually do move. I'll second that. And this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94056 , there it is if u want to see it
I'd join in with those suggesting taking a class at the local JC or wherever you can get a qualified instructor. One of the issues I see is that the MIG machines that seem affordable to a beginner are capable of putting down a cold lap that might look OK at first look but has no penetration. Knowing what to look for in the arc puddle is the key - and requires decent eyesight, clean lenses in your hood, clean material (get the mill scale off), and some knowledge of what you're looking for. And practice, practice, practice.
I think Jody over at WeldingTipsandtricks.com is quite competent, and knowledgeable. He MIGS with a variety of motions. Here's a start -
Best advice given so far. Mig welding with any kind of whipping or zig zag etc is ill advised. It introduces discontinuities caused by variation of heat input and turbulence in the weld puddle. Those techniques are typically used to cover poor technique, settings, or joint preparation. That being said, most everything we are welding in relation to our hobby typically does not require complete joint penetration confirmed by X-ray or cross section and acid etch, but whatever. Morale of the story, when using proper weld settings and technique just push the puddle straight and true. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
And I just realized this thread is 8 years old... lol oh well! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have learned a lot from Jody. His videos are instructive, and he is not consumed by his ego, rather helping out the welder (pro, diy, or anyone else that wants to learn).
I weld heavy equipment loader buckets and excavation buckets for a living. I will say this, welding is an art form and takes many of hours of learning before you even get pretty welds...uphill, downhill, overhead and flat horizontal. Much of the steel I weld is way over an inch thick and I never weave, zigzag or oscillate unless the metal is scaly or has any kind of contaminate. The little 110 welders can only do so much. Little stitch welds and spots are pretty much what they are intended for. Down hill welds are adequate as long as they have a slight crown or flat but never concave or cold rolled.
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