Has anyone ever tried putting a 90's S-10 rear axle under a Model A frame ? I am wanting to use 1937 ford rear radius rods and buggy style rear leaf spring and standard shocks. I know that a 4-link or hair-pin style rods would be easier but I like the look of the 37 rods. I am wanting more of a high boy look but not sure if a vintage axle would hold up to a built 350 cu with a 5-speed manual. Plus I'm on a budget. Any info would be much appreciated
You won't find much love for late model parts here. That said, if it's the right width, I'm sure it would work. But a 9" ($$$) or early Dana ($) would be more period I'd say. With a high boy, people are going to see a lot of the rear end, so, if the S10 rear end is ugly and out of place, it will look like a zit on your car's ass end. A banjo would probably take it as long as you don't pop-dump the clutch into it and keep narrow, bias ply tires on back there. 4 link is for street rods but you will need to do more than just the transverse spring and a set of bones to keep yourself straight with a 350 fed open drive. Search "torque arm" on here.
Are you using the stock A spring above that axle? Might want to call a spring mount supplier like Pete & Jakes and ask them how much room is needed on the axle to fit the mounts. Some axles are too narrow, and an S-10 might be one of them.
I used S10 axles on most of my model A builds.. Cheap and will hold up with a moderate SBC.. I ran 1" adapters to go from 4 3/4 to 5 1/2 inch bolt pattern to run early Ford wheels both front and rear.. As you can see the width is perfect with the 1" adapters...**clic pic**
I'd worry more about using '37 rear bones than the S10 rear Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Stock Ford wishbones did hold the axle straight, but they also had the torque tube which added a ton of vertical strength... Clydesdale horsepower... without the torque tube ???
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/1049263/ Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you have access to a rear end out of a 4-wheel drive S-10, then you would be in better shape. They are a little wider than the 2-wheel drive versions and usually have a better gear. They will hold up to quite a bit in a light car. r
View attachment 3449426 View attachment 3449428 mustang rebuilders give these ford 8 inch rearends away. View attachment 3449428 View attachment 3449426
when I first joined the HAMB and it was still Dodge City here, gun fights and chest bumping included the 4WD S-10 rear was a commonly used part. The 2WD rear is only about 54" and too narrow for an A bone unless you tub it. The A wants about 58"give or take. It is a metric 10 bolt and actually will take quite a bit of abuse. It is the same center as used under late trans-ams for a comparison. We used one for a year behind about 400 ponies just to see what one would take. We had to replace the bearings and the gears were chipped but the center is currently under a later Cutlass with a 454 and has been in the same car since about 2,000.yeaI know all that sounds OT but it'll give everyone an idea of durability of the rear. I still personally prefer a 9" Ford, they are not that expensive (if you are patient and a good shopper) in the whole scheme of things and I usually have one or enough parts to build one. If I was building on a mega budget I would run an Olds, but now you are talking two things, expensium and unobtainium. OK I freakin took that one off the rails.
Have you seriously considered an 8" Ford rear? They're lighter duty than a 9", but plenty good enough for a mild SBC/5-speed combo.