Projects First time model A

I just bought a 30 ford truck and have some question about my build. I have worked on c3corvettes and tri-five, but I'm new to model A. I hope I'm posting in the right place.

My question is why do people box the frame, aside from strength? I plan on using a mild 427BBC/Muncie and 12 bolt. Thanks.

 

yes, it does add strength ...plus it gives you a nice flat surface to weld motor mounts, transmission mount, steering box mount etc

 

Boxing stiffens up your frame, this allows your suspension to do its job. There is a huge amount of "flex" in a stock Model A frame.

 

I think adding an X shaped center crossmember will do much more to strengthen an A frame than the boxing will. But box it too.

 

Ok thanks. I will consider an X member. The wishbone looks like it will be in the way of the power train. I know splitting them is an option, would hair pins take its place? Would hair pins be a better option?

 

yes, hairpins up front would be an excellent idea

get yourself a pete & jakes catalog and see how they do it

 

ill do that. what about the 12 bolt, what are the popular ways of attaching it?

 

ladder bars with the front angled toward the center would be my choice to locate it. coilovers with a panhard bar or a cross spring to support it

 

awsome thats what went through my mind. my fear is fitting the BBC. i have seen pics but mostly of coupe and no trucks. i read the sreering box is an issue as is the fire wall. but i think the truck fire wall is different.

anyone know of someone who tackled a BBC with a model A truck

 

A Model A pickup cab is the same as a coupe forward of the doors, so anything that works for a coupe should work for you. I also agree that a Pete & Jake's catalog is a great way for a beginner to learn proper hot rod suspension geometry. Can't go wrong with buying their parts either. Their rear ladder bars are the best bet to keep your rearend attached to the rest of the car when you put a monster in front of it.

Fitting a steering box around/under a BBC is gonna depend a lot on your headers. If you go with a Vega box you will have lots more wiggle room than a solid-column style box like an F-1 pickup.

 

thanks a lot guys, i have been looking into that catalog and yall right, perfect guide. im liking the vega box also

 

Boxing for strength is the only reason I can think of.
A chassis are a little bit wiggly even with the stock motor, and if you throw much meat at it you'll tie it in a knot.

 

If you don't box your frame with that engine you will end up with a pretzel. HRP

 

The Model A frames are riveted together and designed to flex,back when these cars were new we didn't have much to call roads. HRP

 

Post build pics if you care to, always interesting to most of us!

 

i will post some pics. the truck has been in AZ all its life. it was in a storage barn for the last 50 years. the only rust it has is about a quarter size on the running board and below the tail gate on the bed. its all complete with motor and tranny. i have been drenching it with penetrating oil to loosen some joints and nuts. i got the hood open and window frame. its amazing how well the doors open and close. no effort at all.

 

With that motor why not buy a hot rod reproduction model A frame.. They are cheap and will handle the BBC...

 

I broke an A frame that was only boxed to the firewall....bbc tunnel ram, under the hood. I like to use a K member in front of stock rear crossmember

 

A "mild" 427? in a poor little Model A ? I love it!!
(don't forget seat belts!)

 

Before you do any boxing, make sure the frame is true. Model A's have a weak spot on the drivers side between the 18" or 20" between the rear motor mount and the crossmember. I just removed a 3/8" dip on my '29 Coupes frame.

 

Look at it this way....
The Model A was built to flex over very rough terrain and was powered by a 40 H.P. engine.
Your 450+ H.P. engine will destroy the chassis and car.

Build or buy the strongest chassis available, as well as the rear suspension so it will live under the punishment ai have a feeling that will be coming from that 427

 

now would be a good time

 

Good advice. You're off to a great start- that truck is awesome!
I use boxed Model A frames, but usually the motors are under 300 HP.
Get a nice jig welded perimeter frame for $1000 bucks and do your thing!

 

Thanks I also thought about keeping her all ford and finding a donor 80s fox body mustang. Motor,tranny,and rear end. I understand the 8.8 should fit well. A boxed frame should be ok with a stock 80s 302. They were definitely under 300hp

 

Does it say "little brown jug"?

If it were me, an aftermarket frame/427/4spd sounds great.

Ford in a Ford isn't a real thing

( watch what happens from that comment)

If you have to do the 5.0 at least keep 3 pedals- ok?


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HaHaHaHaHa ( sent via Angels from Henry Ford)

#1-Green coupe, Mustang 302, c-4 ( yeah, I know) 10 b0lt posi GM
#2-Sedan-302, 4 spd Mustang , '57 Chevy rear ( went great, FUN to drive)
#3- proof!

 

it does say "little brown jug" kool right!!
ALL my builds have 3 pedals, its a requirement.

im tossin around an aftermarket chassis for a BBC. like 3 pedals, all my chevy builds have been BBC. so small ford would be new to me let alone a actual ford vehicle.

 

did you recess your firewall for that 302?

 

8.8's work great. Get a second short axle from a wrecking yard for the long side of the rear end. Cut the difference out of the long tube and weld it back up. Slide in the short axle and viola! You have a centered diff and a "narrowed" rear. I just did this for my 31 pick up. I've got fenders and firestone drag slicks. They fit perfect under the fenders. Only draw back to the 8.8 over the 9" is the appearance from behind. They don't look as nice visually. The 8.8 does have a nice location to bolt a panhard bar too though. Also 31 spline axles, posi and disc brakes.


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