I can't figure out what make this is. But I want to get some dies going. -Throat depth is 12" in the frame. -Shaft diameter is 28.25 mm Questions -Anyone know the make? -Im assuming this will not fit Pexto dies, or any of the other Popular brands (shafts seem too large from I've read)? -assuming I can't really purchase other dies, thoughts on turning the shafts down to the same size as pexto? Is that 22mm?
Not sure what brand it is but I'd say that those dies are for putting the crimp in the sheet metal that is made into duct work so that end can slip into the end of the other tube.
Need to find a old heating company and ask them about it . In the old days they made all there duct work.
FWIW I just checked my Woodward Fab roller looks like a 22 mm. shaft and just under 50 mm. O.D on the rollers, they lock on to a flat with a set screw no keyway. Might be cheaper in the long run to pick one up at HF just for the rollers. as mentioned the OD would need to match fairly close. JJ
Look for vintage edge formers. This is really just designed for duct work, metal edges, like wire beads, etc. REAL limited as a bead roller. Technical term is "rotary machine".
The square head bolts and general design would date it late 19th or very early 20th century. Most likely Pexto or Niagara. At that age, anything from Pexto would be marked either PS&W or Peck, Stowe, and Wilcox if its marked at all. The fence, or backgauge, looks near identical in shape to the one on a current Model 0617 Pexto I have except for the fact that mine is steel where that one is cast iron. If you look at a 0617 at https://www.roperwhitney.com/our-pr...es-standard-spacing-collar-no-rolls-included/ the general layout is very similar. I'd guess is has 3" shaft centers. One thing you can be sure of is that nothing on that machine is built to metric dimensions. All the imported bead rollers from HF, Woodward, etc have shaft centers measuring nominally about 50mm or 2" so their rolls won't work as the OD is too small. I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work as well as any other bead roller out there as long as you can get some various roll sets for it. You can bet its not going to flop around under load like the chinese imports do prior to reinforcement. Link to roll sets for 0617 which has 3" shaft centers. https://www.roperwhitney.com/produc...g-crimping/0617-accessories-beading-crimping/ It'll be a couple days before I'm back in my shop but I can check the bore and counterbore dimensions for these rolls and post them here. The 0617 definitely uses a similar fastening such that there is no protrusion past the end of the rolls so perhaps they're the same dimensions as yours. Some things like that are never changed over the years if they work satisfactorily.
Good point. Wasn't even thinking of that. I beg to differ. Unfortunately my shaft centers are 2.5", and the Pexto 0617 apparently has 1.375" shaft diameter. Looks like I'll be making my own dies, or have Hoosier Profiles do some if the cost isn't too bad.
Ive had luck with pulley hubs. Cheap and they are the right size with a keyway cut. All you need to do is cut your profiles. The larger shaft size means larger hub sizes which might help. Ive also made them modular . The male die anyway. Eg. if you need a 1/2" x3/8" bead you can make it out of 1/2" plate x 3.25" cookie sandwiched between 2.5" round stock "cookies" rather than cutting all that material. You just shape the center . You can use the 2.5" parts for other profiles too. I've pinned these set ups to keyed pulley hubs so they dont spin on the shafts and i dont have to broach them(see pic). Also done them without the keys and pins and had good results. It's the pressure that keeps everything rolling. Another tip is to find a pulley 2.5" round and then cut one edge off for a tipping die
Ha! Found a pic. The male die on the right is 3 pieces. Ignore the arbour in the center. Better than cutting 3" down to 2". Its the bead on model t door inners. next pic is of a bead i cut from 3" round . Lots of work . Its the bead on turtle deck 1/4s
Lol, I meant do to your depth. As long as you don't have any floorboards you need beads in the center that are wider than 24". I have done MANY roadster pickup backs and beds where 12" throat would have been really useless. If you don't mind that part, it will work fine.
What you have there is a Peck Smith machine from before 1867. I have a pile of tinsmith machines I've been slowly restoring and one is a Peck Smith like yours. Turn your own rolls if you want them sooner. They just aren't out there much. Scale the rolls up so they touch when the shafts are parallel and they'll work as well as any original. I'd be happy to trade measurements if you're into making your own parts.
I was too busy to deal with this, and stashed it in storage. Recently, I had a lull in projects, and coincidentally had to move to a new secondary storage garage, so I decided I might as well finish this project. I researched all the cheap plate steel options (like from Eastwood), and then between time and materials to strengthen the frame, and options to put a motor on it (which weren't as prevalent seven years ago), I thought this was worth the effort, especially since anything comparable was thousands of dollars. I researched and got a Dayton motor Same, I got a variable speed foot pedal Found a lovejoy coupling a welded that to the handle I had to cut the handle off for motorized use, but drilled holes and a welded studs so it can be reattached. I made a motor bracket out of 1/4" plate, which worked out well. When it came to dies, I had zero idea,but I bought an Amazon set for 22mm shafts (thinking this is the least amount of material to remove from each die), and 2.5" centers. What I didn't realize (which is a major advantage) is they sells you a sleeve for the shaft, and all the dies use a set screw on that sleeve. That was huge, because I had to machine 2 sleeves to fit my machine, and then all the dies slide on said sleeve. End result-Works awesome. Fence is there if I want it for an edge, otherwise remove it. Throat depth is 14+ inches The only thing I wish I'd done different is a reverse switch (but I may add that after the fact: probably easy). My 11 yr daughter even made this, with zero experience.
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