Hi all, I am building a 64' Chevelle which didn't come with a driveline. It's an automatic. I will most likely be running this engine: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3830ctc1s I have a stock 10 bolt rear end, as far as I know the gears were never changed out, and I don't plan on messing with them anytime soon. This is going to see zero track time, cruising streets and a good amount of freeway time. I am not well versed in gearing, would this transmission pair well as far as fitment, I don't know about tailshaft length? HP raiting should be no prob as far as a combo with the engine. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/60300/10002/-1#reviewTab Bonus help, any recommendations on a driveline for this combo? Do they come balanced? I've built a lot of cars but this 64' came with NOTHING. Thanks in advance...
You may get more and better responses on something like a Chevelle forum . Best of luck on your project.
The combo looks okay to me. You could go with an overdrive transmission but the TH350 is nice. You'll need a stall converter, not a big deal. I believe the length of the TH350 is the same as a Powerglide so a stock driveshaft might work. I have them made up now and they balance them too. The one in my Ford ran me $300 and is good to 550 HP. Rear gears at a guess are probably 3.08 or 3.23 and it should cruise nicely. I would go for a 3.55 myself to give it some low-end punch. You'll get nickel-and-dimed for brackets, dipstick for the automatic and so on, but it will be all new stuff and clean. Just about anything is available for the older Chevelles.
64 Chevelle's that came with P/glides were almost all geared 3.08's. Going with the 383 will allow you to run less gear as it produces much more torque than the original engine setups. As already mentioned a converter with a little higher stall speed will be beneficial and I doubt you will need an overdrive. You will more than likely used a taller than stock tire which will effectively create the effect of an even higher(numerically lower) gear in the rear. One trick that used to be done was using a converter from a Super 300 two speed in a TH350 for a little more stall for very little money.
Depending on whether car had a P/G, or a stick, or a "mountain gear ratio" or a stick with overdrive, '64 Chevelle had gear ratios of 3:08, 3:36 or 3:70.
Give some thought to a 700R4 trans, a little more $ up front but you get a lock-up for the convertor and Overdrive for better highway mileage as well as a lower 1st gear off the line. Takes about a 3" shorter drive shaft than a PG/TH350 set up and the trans crossmember has to be moved back as well (re-position and a drill is all that is required). As long as the trans has a mechanical speedo drive the Chevelle cable works. Will require a bit of a bump to the floor hump at the top of the trans bell to clear (2 minutes with a hammer, doesn't take much). Have you thought about picking up a 85 + Chevy with a 350/700 combo already in it and getting the engine/trans redone locally? That would give you all the bits and pieces you will need and sell the leftovers to re-coup some of your outlay. Look for a "DBLF = '95+ L35 S10 truck converter" to get a 2025RPM stall. My 64 Chevelle with a 406/700R4 combo, original PG diff and a shortened driveshaft. Canuck
So you need to know the rear gears. Everything will fit in its hole, but you need to pick a converter and should pick the gears to work best. It all works together so every component compliments the others.
Take the back cover off and count the teeth and that way you can check for worn spiders, bad bearings etc. That way you have fresh lube in the diff. Pull the rear drums and check the axle bearings for wear while you have the cover off. Routine maintenance now saves a wrecker and a ruined weekend later. Had a 64 Malibu wagon shop car with a junkyard 400 and TH350 with a 3.08 and drove it all over the southwest when I lived in Az. Had no issues cruising at speed limit plus. Just put 225/75-15 tires on the rear to kill the gear.
Yeah I took the axels and rear end apart when I had the frame off. I swapped out the rear drums for disc. The gears felt nice and tight, will be getting fresh fluid. I didn't put the cover back on, so I'll count the teeth. I wasn't sure if it was tooth count or physical measurement to get the ratio. Thanks for all the tips! I know some great machine shops in Sacramento and I'd have them build up a 383 short block for me if I had a 350 laying around, might save a few bucks. But since I have nothing, I think a Blueprint from Summit is my easiest option. If I didn't have so much welding and substantial other projects, car and non-car I'd build it myself. I had a 454 bored .30 over in my 71' some years ago, that I built myself and was a fun time. Always wanted a 383, should be good times.
Most gears sets have the tooth numbers on the ring ear look for a number like 37-10 equals a 3.70. It should be on the side of the ring gear if not put a mark on the pinion and a mark on the ring and count the teeth.
Counted the gears over the weekend, counted 37. So it sounds like 3.70 gears. I never mentioned tire size. I'll probably get 17's and go as large on the rubber that will fit in the rear without tubbing or major mods, already rolled in the lip on new quarters. The stall converter recommended for the above engine I'll probably be ordering is 2000-2400. I noticed there is a $150 freight charge on that TH350 trans I posted in the first post. I can probably get a little more bang for the buck and get something more expensive but with free freight thru Summit. Open to TH350 recommendations Probably will not run a kickdown. I know a TH350 is pretty dang universal, and I've found a few that look good around the $1000 mark. But doing a 64' Chevelle specific search not one comes up, not sure why.
You need to count both gears then divide one Into to the other to get the ratio. There's probably a number stamped on them too. A vehicle specific search for your '64 doesn't show a th350 because the Trans didn't show up until 1969.
^^ What Vicky said. You need to count the pinion too. My guess is you'll have 3.08s. I understand others were available, but I've yet to see a 64 Chevelle that didn't have them. On the driveshaft, I'd wait until you have the engine and trans in, then measure and have a local shop make and balance one to fit. Right length, correct yoke, etc. My preference is for small blocks in these cars. 383 would be fun. I pulled the big block out that I put in my 64 wag and replaced it with a rowdy 327. Big block was fun in a straight line but a wallowing pig otherwise. Definitely check out the team chevelle website forum for more specific chevelle info- it's barely On Topic here as they are considered "muscle cars" by many. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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