Mocking up the Vega box in the '34 chassis, in order to clear the header and engine mount, I can locate box with the top center hole 14 1/2" back from the center of the crossmember . This is 4" rear of where I've seen the box should mount. This angles the drag link rearward on the left, rather than parallel. Will this impact handling?
Hey Flynbrian, I used a early mustang box as crossteer in my 34 roadster. the box itself tucked up in the inner fender pocket. sorry no pics this was a lot of years ago. maybe an alternative? Gordon
Hmmm. Well, that certainly sucks. If I put it forward 4", it's right under the engine mount, which is inconvenient, as that means the steering box has to be a bit lower than it probably should mount, and would have to be removed to get the engine mount bolt up and in. I'll put it there if I have to, I can gusset the box mount below the frame I suppose, and dropping the box is a three bolt proposition. Or, I could use different motor mounts than the Ford biscuit style, and raise the front of the engine a bit, which would give more header clearance, allowing the box to come up. Much easier than moving the engine and trans back, I don't want to recess the firewall any further the the relief I made for the dizzy, and the trans crossmember and tunnel in the frame won't work either, which would mean starting pretty much completely over.
Use a front saddle mount, you can probably use your present frame mounts and biscuits just move them forward.Looks like they are only tacked in.Something like this in case you don't know what I'm talking about.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbc-hurst-motor-mount.256724/ One post evan has a blueprint for you.
Note the position of the pitman arm to drag link, it's square. Yes there will be more steer one side to the other put consider this. Your set up probably has more travel then needed. Finish your mock up and see what your lock to lock is. If your tire's rub your bone's on both sides your steering is more than covered either way. By the way, I can not find it at the moment but Ford did do a drag link set up like this as well. Good luck
If it was mine, I would position the steering box so that the drag link and tie rod are parallel in both axes and modify the motor mount and headers as required. I had the same issue when I updated the steering box on my '48 Austin, the motor mount and the new steering box wanted to be in the same place. I modified the bottom of the motor mount and had to build a completely new driver's side header, but at least I know the steering geometry is right.
^^^^^ That's nearly 1 1/2 (6 to 7 inches) cylinders further ahead than OP's. Drag link and tie rod would cross over one another.
I can move the box ahead some by going to a rear dump header, which would be about like the photo Johnny Gee posted. I'll run the thing lock to lock and see how much travel I have now and go from there. It's fixable either way, although I hate to lose those lovely rusty headers... ;-)
The GM center dump cast iron ones might be tighter to the block for more room. They wont leak like tube headers either.
So millersgarage and Johnny, maybe the answer is: "While not quite geometrically 'correct', the impact on steering is minor on a street-driven hot rod." Right??? I'm very interested, because I may be looking at the same problem with my project. Thanks, Gary
So, if you'll forgive the blurry photos, kitty litter on the floor from the other days first fire up and resultant oil spill, and crusty, rusted bare metal, what we see here is the box moved forward under the motor mount, and ahead far enough to get the drag link and tie rod parallel. I dropped the box down a bit, enough to get the mount bolt and out, after I realized I have to drop the steering arms yet. Once I do that (later today) the drag link will be slightly above the tie rod, the mount clears, the header clears the box, and although I'll have to gusset the mount under the frame, it'll all work. Sometimes just sleeping on a problem gives me a fresh look, and this is one of those times. Now, I need to figure out how to mount the shocks and get the headlights where I want them... Edit: on examining the space, rear dump headers would have made steering shaft clearance tight or impossible, and a set of '65 Chevelle headers (they came with the 283 from the Chevelle it used to live in) drop down below the frame rails although they fit pretty well.
Another thing to think about. The steering wheel is super easy to center because these types of cars don't care unlike a modern car. Now see where your modern cars wheel stops at lock to lock. You maybe over thinking things.
Nice, it doesn't get any better than that. A 32 that I'm doing has it right there as well. I set it so the input shaft is true to the horizontal line of the chassis. That way the pitman arm does not swoop upward as it moves left to right and vs.
Brian, another variable is pitman arm length. Stock vega pitman arm length is 6.0", but I've seen them 5.75" and 6.25". Getting a longer or shorter pitman arm will give you some options, but will also affect steering quickness.
I didn't measure, it's whatever came with the Vega box and mount from some vendor at Nats North last fall...
The Jalopy Journal
