Projects Dodge This - 1939 Dodge Southeast Gasser Build

The guys I know with the -5.00sec door slammers on nitrous in 28.5X10 classes use a multi layer steel gasket from Cometic (sp?). Don't know if they are available for Hemi.

 

We use hylomar sealant on our flatcad bonneville car it's way better than silicone but then again it costs way more too but with the compression you are running I would use it with anealed copper gaskets over the ones you use I don't like them things we had all kinds of trouble with those


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I used Hylomar spray last year and this year - sort of the same as coating the entire deck in silicone.

I do have a set of MLS gaskets - but the block having an O-ring already ..... might just stay the course for now with copper.

I'm planning to sneak the gasket into the oven at 400 while the wife is not here, then Hylomar spray and try again.

 

I'm planning to sneak the gasket into the oven at 400 while the wife is not here, then Hylomar spray and try again.[/QUOTE]

Tony this was what works best for us it seems that anealling the copper was the trick that kept the head gaskets on with 20 lbs of boost I'm pretty sure our final compression ratio is above yours by a good margin lol


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Ok I see where the ring height in the block is specified - need to check mine.

I never did find any info on the SCE site about the temperature to achieve annealing. The Youtube videos shows guys using a torch until the copper is RED hot.

 

Well there's this :

• SCE copper gaskets can be reused 4 to 5 times simply by cleaning in common solvent. DO NOT use a torch or household oven to “re-anneal” copper gaskets. The annealing process requires special vacuum ovens to achieve satisfactory results.

 

As I read down the page I was mentally preparing to type something about annealing copper, or for that matter, any metal that can be hardened or annealed with heat.
And the comment I was preparing dovetails in with what you posted in the last post.
Metal must be protected from oxygen, heated to a specific temperature which will vary according to alloy, maintained at that temp for a specific time, then temp lowered at a specific rate back down to ambient temp., all while protected from oxygen bearing atmosphere.
Proper heat treating, whether hardening or annealing requires far more care than possible using a propane torch or a kitchen oven.
There are heat treating services available, but they will need the precise alloy info in order to do the job right.

 

Little more study on this SCE silicone bead. Think the real issue is that the bead has crossed over into the O-ring groove area, then it broke down and there's a leak.

 

Do you think the gasket failed may be due to the screw coming into contact with the cylinder head Affectively hammering against piston head and cylinder head?
If so I would consider a surface grind to the cylinder head and replacing the gaskets with new replacment of the same type.

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This was the reason I ask about the carbon on pistons.
http://mk3ukr-supra.net/Combustion pattern - by J.McFarland.pdf

 

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A= not sure
B= boiling coolant has clean the gasket in this area.
C= blow pass (is this to a water passage? )
D= Gasket is sealing correctly no sign of water staining or exhaust gas.


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Well hell, as long as others are giving you advice and forensic opinions I will also. I had a coolant motor that needed thick head gaskets to lower compression ratio a bit. I used copper. I sprayed them with copper gasket coating before installing them. I was also advised to re-torque them after a couple heat cycles. A lot of extra work over the install and forget variety. Modern performance motors with MLS head gaskets are also being coated with copper spray especially in boosted applications. Good luck with whichever gasket you use.

 

I don't think the screw did anything except ding up the piston and the head which I will buff out

So this is funny - I never had Facebook until like February this year - so I'm FB newb for sure - I posted that same pic on FB and the SCE guy called Nick Smithberg right away I never want to stir the pot anywhere - just learning - but the SCE guy said just what you pointed out Dave -
A & B are bolt holes and water never came down the outside so - no issues here
C is a big OH SHIT - that is blow by
D is probably caused by my O ring being too tall

I'm going to measure the O ring tonight and get a thicker gasket so the copper is not getting deformed.

I prefer the HAMB - seems like a more private audience

 

with my hemi we were using a standard copper gasket. it sealed the cylinder fine. sealing the water not so much. we tried copper coat on both sides of the gasket with no luck. thicker gaskets can make it harder for the wire to sink into the gasket and the receiver groove. this holds the head slightly off the deck allowing water to leak out. we had the wire .015 off the surface of the head to start. we lowered it to .008 and never had trouble again. we also use head studs torqued to 100 ft. lbs. I use the silver silicone so I can see how much im putting on. it doesn't take much.

 

I wounder if with the rocker shaft set up that you have maybe check the head stud torque when you run the valves.

 

Anybody besides me having a problem with their subscription to this thred dropping out?

 

Probably same as racer-x

Yeah you are probably right because I can see some galling where the washers sit.

Yeah me

 

Waiting on gaskets

 

Warning Warning Danger Danger Will Robinson !!!!!!!

 

Yep, but I'm like a stalker on this thread

 

Big upgrade!!

 

What do you do for go and stop

 

If the axle is live, it's going to push in the turns

 

Happens a lot unfortunately.

 

That pic should be on a HAMB calendar.

 

He has a handle on the side that goes to the throttle and the last upgrade he did was a steel plate to push on the tire for a brake.

Oh it pushes in the turns for sure - glad to see him take it home I got my own shit to deal with



The new gaskets are from Clark Gaskets. These didn't have all the water holes so maybe they are designed for filled blocks. After correcting the curve that the UPS guys put in them ........




Sprayed a can of Hylomar on them


Just need the injection back from Gene Adams now. He flowed the setup and the pump was almost dead. Looks like the pump was disintegrating and the particles were clogging the nozzles too.

 

If you have Northern tools in your area, they had a go-cart parts section with a cheep mechanical disk brake set. might pass that along, ran them on my sons quarter midget, stopped great.

 

Tony

That's one sexy Hemi! I'll have to shoot you some pics of my de-stroked 331. The top end will be nice,, I've got a set of Roger Stankes valve training, and 4 bolt caps. Still trying to figure out how to adapt a sb mopar timing set to fit the early long nose roller cams I have.

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