I'm planning the build of my recently-acquired '35 Coupe -- and trying to use parts and pieces I've stockpiled over the years: 283 SBC with Hurst Front Motor Mount, '39 Trans, '40 Torque Tube and Banjo, '39 Steering, etc etc. My concern is the lack of clutch chatter rods in this set-up. I've read here about Hurst's "AD-75 3299 anti-chatter" kit, but haven't been able to find much about it. Is clutch chatter a non-issue in this set-up? What's you experience? Thanks.
Back on topic... I put an early Olds in a 40 with the stock 40 trans/rear, and it had front hurst mounts. I had no issues with chatter at all. I don't know what that kit is you posted, but is it a limiter at the front rubber mounts? Get good front rubber biscuits. Some don't have the steel ring girdle band around the fat part. Drake had them, maybe socal? That band is priority for sure. Don't buy at speedway, as it was said they are not banded. I don't think you will have a problem. The chatter rods prevent any front to back movement of eng/trans, and that actually causes the clutch linkage to move the TOB. It can start a chain reaction, which is the chatter. It's not a big deal to add something if it really needs it. Anything that keeps the movement limited, will work.
Mine shakes about a bit if reversing up hill apart from that no probs in many years of 283 to early Ford running gear motoring
Thanks F&J. I don't know what the AD-75 3299 kit is or what it looks like. So far I've only come across vague mentions. jcmarz -- It's a fifty footer. Seriously. Put together by monkeys, who were in a rush. Looks awesome in photos tho... huh?
You can probably just make some tabs off the bell housing bolts an do a chatter rod similar to ford design
Here is what I am using for the 181 Mercruiser (a big Chevy II banger) that I have in my Avatar. Ignore the clevis in the second picture, it is part of the clutch linkage. The rod goes back to the K member. I must admit I put the rods in when I did the conversion and never tried running without them. Charlie Stephens
I had a 35 coupe with a 265 /hurst mount/39 box with no anti chatter rods and it worked great. sounds like you have the makings for a cool car go for it B
F-head: That's kind of where I'm heading. I'm thinking if everything's square, maybe a pilot bearing instead of bushing, suspension all dialed-in ... that I'll be fine.
it does look too nice of a car to modify. I guess pictures don't always tell the real story. That spare tire mount is worth some bucks, especially out here in California with the lowrider crowd.
The Hurst anti-chatter device was an L shaped bracket that mounted on the front motor mount cushion. One leg of the L had a large hole to allow it to be placed over the motor mount bolt and held down by the nut. The other leg was tapped for a bolt which was tightened into the motor mount biscuit. This put a preload on the mount and limited the axial movement.
When ever you can use the Ford design it makes everything work better. I used the stock Anti Chatter rods on my 41. I made a plate that picked up on the 3 bolt holes that the Chevy side motor mount attaches to. I then cut the stock anti-chatter rod, and threaded it 1/2-20, and installed a Heim end on the rod. I bolted the Heim to the side mount plate made previously. It held the Chevy in position, uses a stock design, that worked well. No chatter.
It is my opinion that you will need the rods. I built a '34 Ford with a Lil' Iron Duke GM 4 banger, '39 trans and stock banjo rear. When I backed up, the thing would chatter until the clutch was fully engaged. Make your own and install in original location or as said build limiters butted against the front of the Hurst saddle.
I have experienced clutch chatter with a flathead, and wanted to ensure that I had no issues with my 327 and muncie in a 35 coupe. I shortened and drilled some old Ford shackle plates, bolted them to the muncie/327 on each side of the motor similar to Ford rod location, I then bolted some cut down original chatter rods to the original chassis mounts and put the other end through the previously drilled holes in the shackles. I then modified the rod length to suit and tack welded them to the shackles, removed them and finish welded. The shackle to rod angle is less than a right angle.It is still a project and I havent tested it yet. This might work for you using the Chev. adapter and is Ford design. MV
lot of stuffing about to put a pilot bearing in as you need a long bush that sits proud of the crank by 3/4 of a inch or so
Yes I made a bushing to suit and needed chatter rods to stop it chattering in reverse, this was 40 years ago in my 46 coupe, I don't think much has changed since then.
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