Hot Rods Marvel Mystery Oil, to use or not to use

New fuel blends tend to lack lubricity and could possibly use some help there. I never tried MMO, but on that lubrication issue I find it important for my diesel engine. 2 things have worked well for that and you can literally hear and feel the difference within a mile or so. One is a Lucas product designed for that use, the other, TCW3 rated 2 stroke oil. Yes, 2 stroke oil. It burns in those engines, yes? My diesel goes nearly "gas engine" silent with about 4-5 oz added to a full tank. 4 people have been in my truck to hear and feel the difference, all as amazed as I was. Your results may vary, but how do we think this could relate to the designed uses of MMO? Same? Different? Not related at all?

 

Brilliant! I like your logical approach to tackling a problem. As my old auto shop instructor liked to remind us... "Knowledge of operation is the first step to proper diagnosis."

 

ATF will give you similar results as far as stuck valves go.

 

We used ATF many times on carbureted cars for that same purpose and to get the engine to even out. It really fogged things up too; but it worked.

 

This topic gets flogged regularly on the Model T forum. Lots of guys scoff at it and think anyone who would use it is an idiot. Other guys have personal testimonials of miraculous results. Doesn't seem to be any resolution to this dispute other than " if it works for you, go for it".

 

I stumbled on to it almost 20 years ago, had a rebuilt 292 installed. The oil was turning black right away, carbon black, in maybe 50 or 100 miles something like that. Was never certain what that indicated, nothing good probably. But a little Marvel's in the gas and oil and it's been fine ever since. Stays honey colored now like anything else.

 

At Rademacher Chevrolet, old Howard Lewis the service manager would take a coke bottle, fill it 1/2 way with ATF, the rest of the way with water, shake it like the dickens, then pour it down the carb with the engine revving 2000 or so, until it was on the edge of stalling, and repeat as needed.

Whether it worked or not is anybody's guess. If smoke was proof - well we got s bunch of that. The used car manager Charlie Coots would have me buy MMO, and "pour one in the tank, one in the crankcase, taker 'er out to I-75 and drive the piss out of it" on some of the older trade-ins.

I've always kept it around for the air impacts and rusty things. It's good for that.
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Well, you're all over the map. A few posts back you posted that this was more of a solvent. I was going to talk about that, then I see this post, and it pretty much contradicts your earlier post about it being a solvent. Now I'm not sure where to go.

First, a solvent kind of works like a detergent, kind of, but in a different way. Solvents tend to be refined from aromatic or napthenic hydrocarbons; the solvency of the oil will work to loosen and solubilize deposits, but they also tend to be highly subject to oxidation and are not very thermal stable, just by the nature of the hydrocarbon molecule. Meaning, they should be used to address a problem, and only for short term usage. Which is kind of what you describe using it for, but I see others that add a can at every oil change. Bad idea. It will lead to the oil becoming oxidized earlier. Oxidation is the main limiting factor for the life span of engine oils. As the oil oxidizes it becomes darker in color, thicker in viscosity, and more corrosive as acidic compounds develop. It also starts to develop heavier longer chain compounds that are polar and will plate out on interior surfaces. So in the long run, if you're adding this stuff to your oil on every change, you're adding to the problem you're trying to address. If you use it, plan on changing the oil soon and get it out of there, hoping it worked to loosen and disolve whatever deposits you're trying to get rid of, but hasn't contributed to the problem. OK, so that's my rant on solvents in engine oil.

But just a couple more words on engine oil turning dark. The truth is, it's supposed to, as it cleans up deposits and contaminants and holds them in suspension until you drain it out and get rid of it. This is especially true on diesel engines, which make a lot more soot than gasoline engines, but it's still true on gas engines. Carbon black in a gas engine is not good, it kind of indicates you're cooking the oil. Either that or you had run the engine in a severe overly rich condition and developed a lot of soot in the oil, I've seen a few diesel engines do this (I've got pics!), but never a gas engine. I'm not sure what you had going on in your post above. Maybe you had a really dirty engine, and the oil was cleaning it up. Or maybe you cooked the oil by severely over heating the engine. I don't know. I think the change you saw when adding MMO is probably coincidental, in whatever conditions existed to turn the engine oil black were already corrected by the time you added MMO. It really makes no sense, especially since it contradicts your earlier post.

 

My first-hand experience: I was on a motorcycle trip with friends. One had a fiberglass fuel tank, which began to disintegrate with ethanol, sending a goo into his carb and stcking the throttle slide. Quite bothersome as he entered the turns without the throttle shutting off. I had just done the top end on my bike and was carring MMO. Put some in his tank and cured the sticking slide for the remaining 500 miles. As for my fresh top end who knows, had no trouble.

 

I first used it about 40 years ago to free a sticking ring in a Datsun 4 cylinder. Then later for a sticky lifter. In the ensuing years, other than the air tool oil which is a separate formula, I only use it for "problem" engines. Other wise I rely on quality oils and fuels to do their jobs. JMO

 

Read what I wrote, not what you think I wrote. It doesn't contradict anything. You have no clue what you are talking about. I'm not sure what your obsession is, but please go away. LOL

Oil typically turns black after several thousand miles, not in 50. Thanks.

 

I know there are many ways of keeping your brushes like new for years but the one I have used for the past 25 years or more is I lay my brushes flat in a plastic food container and then fill it with mineral spirits and snap on the top.

I use the exact same brushes today that I used 25 years ago and they are like brand new.

The thing that kills brushes is being exposed to the air!!!

All of my cans of One Shot paint have a few drops of PaintSav added to them and simply stir it around and put the lid back on and you will never have paint that skins over again.
PaintSav is another product I started using 25 years ago and it works like a charm every time.

Jimbo

 

No obsession, just a discussion, trying to add information. I do have a little bit of a clue, it's what I do for a living, and have for several decades. But that's OK, take it easy.

 

It's wonderful stuff. I've used it for almost 40 years. Don't tell the FAA, but quite a few of us also use it in our fuel tanks now and then..while flying.........wonderful on valves.

 

May have posted already but--my Dad put a bit in all gas tractors-swore by it. I use a bit in the gas as well-was told by the guy who rebuilt my Rochester FI unit to run it in the gas to keep the toggle link etc free in the unit--always ran it-never had a problem with my FI unit--others did when they sat for a while.

 

When I got shipped out in 1970, I started my "new" car ( 1956 XK-140 Jag - $800. bucks!!) got it
up to temp, and poured Marvel Mystery Oil down the intake slowly till it died. Got home 13 months later, changed the plugs, charged the battery, and it fired right off. Smoked a little, but ran great.
Still use it ( and still like the smell- better than gear oil ).

 

Blues 4 u thank you for your very informative post. Now I know the reason why what and how Marvel works. Now if you can give me a recipe for tire softner I would be a very happy camper.. Thank again... Bobby

 

Cool story. The wisdom of our elders make me smile.

 

Another good reason to use Marvel Mystery is in this picture an Edelbrock Carb that sat for over 6 months with ethanol gas.MMO will help to prevent that.

 

If your daughter ever says "dad my car is making a ticking sound, and there is a stupid red light on" use some MMO, it takes a licking and stops the ticking, ha... how'd you like that. But seriously, I use it, mostly before an oil change, dump 1/2 a quart in the crankcase drive it for 50 or so miles and change the oil. I have also used Sea Foam, mostly in my commuter cars, jap stuff, dump some (slowly) down the brake booster to the intake, while it's running, shut it down let it sit for 5 minutes start it up watch it smoke, burns up the carbon deposits.

 

The fuel today is very dry, MMO is great for adding that lubricity. 4 oz. to 10 gallons.

 

fresh rebuild = brake in debris and moly brake in lube MMO will speed the flushing out of theys





=

 

Look at you Mike!

Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I have been using it for over 50 years for for internal and external use on 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines,
I use it in gas when storing a car for long periods, so far no sticking valves!!!

 

Like some others have posted, I use it in the fuel when storing any gas powered equipment for long periods of time.

 

Hard to know if it helps but I can say that it doesn't hurt. I use it on older engines in the fuel and the oil.

 

A little background first. I have a 1970 AMC Rebel SST with a 360 engine that has been modified for performance. It has (major components) a Summit Racing street performance camshaft, double roller timing chain, roller rockers, 3000 rpm stall converter, manual shift reverse pattern A-727 transmission, 4.10:1 axle gear ratio, solid MOSER axle shafts and a Twin Grip model 20 differential. This car makes a lot of torque, is a blast to drive and has won all but 1 "street race" that I have undertook. I bought it and never did any diagnostics to determine the mechanical shape of the engine. It hauled when I stepped on the gas and that was all I cared about. I have rode it hard for 5 years and it's apparent mechanical issue became apparent last year when I replaced the camshaft, timing chain & gears and Lifters. I have 2 weak cylinders. They read very low on a standard compression gauge cranking warm with the throttle open. Don’t get me wrong, this engine puts out some great torque for a 360 engine, I am sure much more than a stock 401 would but it is tired. Obviously it needs service or a rebuild. I am in the process of having machine work done on my other Rebel’s 390 at this time. No need to have too many projects started simultaneously.

A longtime friend of mine (Brad) was pitching Marvel in the oil and fuel. He said it increased his fuel economy and had other benefits. He wanted me to put it in the Rebel’s fuel. I pretty much “poo-pooed” him at first. I accepted that it would probably be great in the crankcase to dissolve sludge and great before an oil change but I wasn’t buying into adding it to my gasoline. It is kind of pricey. I added Marvel to the engine oil and drove it around as usual for a few weeks. I had this nagging feeling that the vehicle had somehow been performing better than before even though I did nothing to it. I checked compression in the 2 low cylinders. It had gone UP! I assume that I had stuck rings or contaminated valve seats and the Marvel cleaned it up. Brad began pitching Marvel in the fuel again. I agreed to try it in my 2000 Grand Cherokee since it has the onboard fuel mileage computation. I would also do the calculation the old fashioned way to verify the electronic computation. Well, my mileage DID INCREASE on the electronic value and I verified it figuring it manually. I was sold on putting it in the Rebel’s fuel tank now.

I added it to the Rebel’s next tank per Brad’s max ratio. I am not after fuel economy in this vehicle. It was not put together for that and I only bought it to be thrown back when I open the throttle. I immediately noticed that AGAIN the car was performing better than before the Marvel in the fuel. My hole shots needed less throttle and I could hold them longer. I did not add Marvel to the next batch of fuel and decided it would resume in the next fill up. The drop in power was noticeable. The next fill with gasoline and marvel was noticeably more “snappy.” I am sold on this. I use it now at every fill up.


I know that it is not negating the need for mechanical repairs but it is showing that it is beneficial to my engine. I am sold on it.

 

Hey Lee ya forgot to give us your buddys formula.

 

One part vodka, one part MMO, dash of bitters, shake over ice, strain, pour, garnish with lime rind. Mmmmmmmmmmarvelous!

 

My dad used it and I started using it as a kid working on bikes. Rusty chains, coil them up and put in a shallow pan of Marvel for a week. It would free up the worst chain. I've added it to oil to free up sticky lifters with success.

Best thing I ever used it was for a shop truck that had over heated badly and was stuck. It was a Ford 360. We took the plugs out, one of the plugs actually came apart due to the heat exposure, we had to use an easy-out to get the threaded ring out. Then I added some MMO to each cylinder and let it sit for 2 days. Gave it a spin with a breaker bar and socket at the crank and it was free. New plugs and it started. I added some to the oil and we ran it around the 'hood and warmed it up. Brought it back in and changed the oil and filter. The engine was never the same though, it smoked and was a little noisy on cold starts but it held up for a few more years.