Hey guys in case you're not following my thread I have a 30 model A coupe with a 265 SBC, and looking to put a T-5 behind it. What pedal setup are you guys using for a mechanical setup. Not hearing good things about the hydraulic throw out so I'll go with a mechanical setup. Or I can go with a slave cylinder and a hydraulic pedal. Suggestions? Thanks.
Exhaust inside or outside the frame is HUGE! If your exhaust is outside the frame the possibilities are endless and hopefully some guys will post up photos of what they have done....If its inside the frame........I FEEL YOUR PAIN, (or you will feel mine shortly). The lack of room under these cars is crazy when trying to cram all that stuff under there. Mine is mechanical...but I am still not 100% happy with it (and thats that I havent even driven my car yet). Good luck, nice chop on that coupe btw.
Thats a pretty nice set up....I would have loved to have gone that route, but my steering box is right there.
Exhaust will be inside the rails. Hopefully F1 box but may go with a corvair. I'm wanting to stay traditional steer as well. That's where a slave cylinder may be the way to go.
On our roadster we used a set of F1 pedals. Bolted to our homemade center section between 32 rails. Car is flathead powered using the original bell housing and truck clutch with Astro van disc that splines up to the T5. Using the original clutch shaft equalizer and mounting bracket that bolts to the left frame rail that came with our 49 engine. We did have to shorten it a wee bit. Works like a charm. Vega box is well forward of this and we have no issues.... Exhaust is inside the frame....
Don't have a pic of it on my phone but, we used a Dwight Bond adapter for a T5 behind our flathead. It had a hole drilled and tapped and a shaft provided. It allowed use of stock Model A pedals and clutch linkage. Came out really slick. We were using a truck bellhousing that had the short tab for the linkage so I made up a new throw out shaft and made it extra long. Trimmed to length. Not sure on a SBC if you can use an adapter plate between the bellhousing and the trans. I'll try to post pics later.
I used a chassis engineering Pedal set up and set everything up to run with mechanical linkage, used an early GM clutch fork with a heim joint at the end where the clutch pedal connects. Plenty of room. another option to free up room is to use a 60-62 truck bell housing (V8) that utilizes a hydraulic slave cylinder and master (inexpensive), this will place the linkage and fork on the passenger side. you would have to use a set of Ansen style/oem hanging pedals. what ever clutch master you use make sure its matched/compatible to the slave cyl.
Many years ago we put a Deuce Factory pedal set up in an A coupe, added an ear to the to top side of the clutch pedal and ran a pull rod back to bell crank behind the pedal assy and another rod forward to pull the clutch fork back. Kept it all clear of the steering etc.
I tried looking for pics of my old model A but could not find any. I have used this set up twice in my two hot rod model A's with muncies (First one built by Andy and Logan) so I cannot take credit for the original set up Works great and its super simple (not to mention TOUGH) Here is a sketch I drew that can hopefully illustrate what I'm talking about.
I am going to use hanging peddles are you using the stock tank? There is a post on here of a model a with a Buick motor that the carbs leaked and he did a whole thing on his car. He eliminated the gas tank and removes the top cover (gas tank) and all the wiring battery brakes are mounted between dash and firewall. I don't know how to post a link.
I'm thinking about hanging pedals. Not using the stock tank but I'm going to cut the front(firewall) side out and out my wiring and such up on there. So I can cut out where needed to make room for pedals. But with hanging pedals it will have to be a slave cylinder I'm thinking.
Did you build the transmission bracket. That's a slick setup, looks like the chassis engineering pedals, is it?
Ansen swing pedals and a 1962 Chevy truck bell housing. The one that has the clutch fork on the passenger side for more room for the steering box
Yes, I built the transmission bracket that's pictured above as well as the smaller bracket that the pedal end of the cable goes through that's welded to the pedal bracket. I bought the pedals and bracket from Don's Hot Rod Parts a long time ago. I think he was reselling them, so it could be CE. They're very similar to these: http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/as-2030bc-brake-and-clutch-pedal-kit-for-1928-1931-ford/ One thing to note is that I had to move the tab that was on the bottom of the clutch pedal to the top so it pulled instead of pushing. The cable is a factory 1980s Ford 5.0 Mustang clutch cable that's been shortened. The white plastic piece on the end of the cable housing closest to the pedal came on the cable from Ford. The other end of the housing has been cut down to length and had a metal threaded end crimped on. Cable/clutch adjustment is done at the trans bracket by tightening or loosening the two big nuts on either side of the trans bracket. This moves the threaded end forward or back for adjustment. Threaded studs are crimped onto the cable itself at both ends and heim joints are screwed onto them with lock nuts. Any AC or hydraulic hose maker should be able to do the modifications on the cable, but I bought mine already modified from Roy Brizio. Here's a tech thread I did a long time ago on the process: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-clutch-cable-installation-w-pics.210569/
As Mr. Cheater and I have mentioned before, the Chevy truck bell housing might be the way to go. It also frees up the steering box area. I have an extra set up like that ,can take pics for you if you like.
I did something really similar to the first pic in my T bucket, only I didn't have the room for 2 lever arms. Picture explains itself I think. Not sure about your bellhousing or the 265 block, but later blocks have provision for cross shaft ball just above the oil filter, and my bellhousing also has provisions for a cross shaft ball, so I had about 3" of fore and aft room to play with for choices.
There are some good ideas here! My fav has to be the '62 truck bellhousing. Ansen style pedals make hanging pedals a breeze but on my current build I'm using 1940 pedals.
I have two bell housings but they are both drivers side clutch arm. I'll have to see what I can find. Any pics of a hydraulic slave setup? Thanks again guys. Helping a ton.
Some bell housings have a "capped" window on the casting that might allow you to "open" and run the clutch fork on the passenger side, you will need to make sure that the clutch fork pivot ball is threaded. Fabricating the brackets for the slave shouldn't be too hard but with that narrow frame you might run into issues with steering. (see pics of what some creative HAMB'rs have done) What ever you do, make sure the Master and Slave Cyl Bores match up or you will have horrible pedal feel and pressure! Fear of sounding opportunistic here; I have a hard to find 60-62 Chevy Truck bell housing, Clutch Fork, Slave and Linkage for sale on the classifieds but shipping to TX will be probably be expensive! I just thought of this; your T5 depending on year; might be a different bell housing mount pattern and might require adapter rings.. might not work with some bell housings. 56sedandelivery posted that he had a master and slave cyl. for an early Chevy truck for sale -quote "for cheap"
Man that is some awesome inforMation. Ill pm you. Thanks man Sent from my LG-V410 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
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