I would like to install the torque tube oil seal (shown below) in my 40 to prevent the rear end oil from running into the torque tube. I would like to install it without having to remove any of the rivets in the coupler. Is there a way to slide the seal over the heads of the rivets so as not to damage the rubber seal? All thoughts appreciated. Thanks.
Fordy, I would think the close fit won't allow it to clear the rivet heads without damaging the rubber. The last thing you want to do is install the seal and then find that it doesn't work. Believe me, if your car has any sort of rake you need the seal. My friend had a raked '39 and toasted his rear and had to have the car shipped home at great expense. When we took the rear apart, there wasn't a drop of lube and burnt blue gears. I know it's a lot of work but well worth it. Removing and replacing the rivets isn't really that hard, I have done it a couple of times. Make sure the replacement rivets are of good quality and not from China. Good luck with your project!
I would ask where you got the seal but assume it is a standard ford seal and it looks pretty easy to fab. Do You have any more pics, like a side on shot maybe. I was thinking if the sleeve section was longer, maybe the seal can be positioned forward of the coupler
If the seal rides between the rivets pull the torque tube off the driveshaft and hand file the heads of the rivet so the seal can slip over it.
The seal is a high quality part made by Bruce's Rod Shop in TX. It looks like this. The flange on the seal fits between the torque tube and banjo rear bolts.
You could also use a couple of strips of shim stock to kinda act as a "shoe horn"over the rivet heads. Used to do that all time on pump shafts so the edges of the key slot wouldn't cut the seal. Always wondered what keeps the lube oil from seeping forward along the splines?
Good point. Perhaps a HAMBER who has installed one of these seals will chime in about what he (or she) did. I was thinking about using thin paper seals like the originals.....but not sure.
I wonder about the fit of the part. The flange of the torque tube holds the double cone bearing in place. There is not much clearance between the flange and the cup bearing. Is the flange going to have to be machined out for this to fit?
No. The long part of the part fits inside the torque tube with the oil seal riding on the splined coupler. The flanged end is then sandwiched between the bajo rear and the torque tube flange. It is then bolted together using the original bolts.
Heck...I just used HEAVY Alcoa aluminum cooking foil. One wrap and you've got an oilable 'ramp' with no feeler gauge sharp edges. You can oil it, too. (for that loving 'slip' as they couple up...) In addition, the Alcoa will wrap circularly, closely; unless you've got those trick, semicircular feeler gauges! A friend of mine suggested a heavy prophlactic. (for love) I would have thought with all the 'improvements' the Hot Rod shop boys have made the early Ford would be perfect by now!
Mike, Did you actually install one of those seals from Bruce's Rod Shop? I gather from your first sentence that you did. Just want to clarify. Your "slip 'n slide" with aluminum foil is a winner. Thanks.
I am not sure what problem you are trying to solve. Is this a solution looking for a problem? What is wrong with a little rear end oil in the torque tube? Charlie Stephens
My 40 has a severe forward rake causing lots of oil in the banjo rear to run forward into the torque tube. that leaves the banjo low on gear oil as the oil does not run back. The purpose of the seal part is to cure that problem.
Just fitted one, my roadster is on a rake due to tyre size, dropped axle etc. I gave the drive shaft pins a file, a little rubber grease, a little sealer on the mating surfaces and job done.
Center bearing has a grease fitting. Only a small amount of grease is needed to lube it. Don't over due it. NOS Ford bearing is shown below.