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Projects 1961 Impala drop top B/B found in (pole) barn

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LowKat, Jun 13, 2015.

  1. Latest addition....

    I already had an original 3x2 intake so I was telling a gearhead friend that I'll be looking for some 2G Rochester carbs at the upcoming Portland Swap Meet and I hope he'd look too. A few days later he shows up with a whole crop of them. I tried to pay him several times but he said no.

    Not correct tri-power carbs but the right era with side fuel inlets and hot air choke. I'll be able to make 'em work. Plug the idle circuits, remove choke plates, choke shafts and plug the shaft holes. Buy the correct reproduction throttle shafts for all three and the thick throttle blades for the front and rear. Now I need to find some progressive linkage.

    YeeHa.

    z tri MINE 2.JPG

    z tri MINE 3.JPG

    I have been doing a little work on the car.
    Did a rattle-can restoration on the generator.
    Pulled off the fan, pulleys, shroud and radiator for some clean-up.

    DSC08386 SMALL generator better.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016
  2. Got the manifold cleaned up and painted but it needs another coat.
    Soaked the carbs, got everything moving freely and ready for dismantle.
    Borrowed some funky little air cleaners for photo fun.

    DSC08370 SMALL tri-power better.JPG

    Now for some of my swap meet scores.

    Got enough interior handles to replace all of mine that are badly pitted.
    These are Olds, Buick or Pontiac.
    Just like Impala but chrome knobs instead of black.


    DSC08357 SMALL interior handles.JPG
    I also bought some nice exterior handles but failed to notice they were for 63-64.
    Damn it.


    A correct 1961 "553" belhousing for the 4 speed conversion.
    DSC08358 SMALL bellhousing.JPG

    A correct starter that fits the bell.
    DSC08364 SMALL starter.JPG

    A "spaghetti" shifter I thought was Chevy but found out it's Mopar.
    I think I can make it work.
    DSC08365 SMALL shifter complete.JPG

    I have a boot and ring to use from my spare parts stash.
    Not a correct boot but free is a very good price and it looks "close enough".
    DSC08368 shifter in boot.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016
    kidcampbell71 and loudbang like this.
  3. Also scored a Powerglide steering column to make look like a 4 speed column.
    Finding a 1961 four speed column is impossible unless you have very deep pockets.

    Already had it torn apart so here's a red one that looked the same as the green one I bought.
    DSC08371 a column red 1 SMALL.JPG


    You can see the shift indicator pointer and shifter handle boss have been ground off.
    DSC08371 b SMALL steering column.JPG


    I beveled the edges of the ground off shifter opening so it'll hold filler better.
    You can also see the hole in the collar that needs filled where the shift indicator light was.
    DSC08372 SMALL column fix.JPG


    For the shift light hole I cut a piece of metal to back it and JB welded it inside of the collar.
    This will give the filler something to bite.
    DSC08376 SMALL column patch ready.JPG


    Stuck some clamps on it until the JB dries.
    Put some screws in the two shift indicator holes and ground them off.
    DSC08378 SMALL patch done JB weld clamped.JPG


    Mixin' up some Bondo for the old shift handle hole after it was mostly filled with JB and a little mesh.
    I like to use a smooth cardboard box for Bondo so I don't have any clean-up except the applicator.
    DSC08379 SMALL column shift hole 1.JPG


    Roughed in Bondo.
    DSC08382 SMALL column bondo rough in better.JPG


    Almost ready for primer.
    DSC08384 SMALL column bondo sanded better.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016
  4. Great read. Any updates?

    Allan
     
  5. Not much for updates on the Impala.
    Been buffing/tinkering on my Ford pickup "The Rattle Can Rebuild" getting it ready to sell.

    DSC08522b.JPG

    Did pull everything off the front of the engine on the Impala so I could finish painting it . Also painted the power steering stuff, inner fenders and fan shroud.

    Soldered a pinhole in the radiator while it was out and discovered it's a 2 row core, not original to the car. Decided my next big purchase will be a reproduction 3 row, copper and brass unit from U.S. Radiator so I didn't bother painting. Been working on the tri-power, getting linkage sorted out to build.

    DSC08597.JPG

    Redid the heater hoses to delete the factory "H-tube" on the fender well. Less cluttered now.

    DSC08599.JPG

    Car show season now so I've been busy at work making cars ready besides working on projects.
    (https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/)

    One project, an E-code (factory dual quad) '57 Ford Fairlane convertible restoration that will be going to the Forest Grove Concours 'd Elegance next month. An original paint car shown here from a few months ago after loading up for a trip to the paint shop.

    1957 Ford convertible restoration 04.JPG

    Also working on "CammerBird". It's a '57 T-Bird with C5 Corvette transaxle and front suspension. Sporting a Hilborn injected, 1966 vintage, 427 inch SOHC cammer engine. This picture is at setup for the Portland Roadster Show. We got a fresh coat of primer, dropped the engine in and slammed on some new chrome the few days before show.

    1957 Ford Thunderbird 2016 03 116 e.jpg

    Getting the engine married to the shortened Corvette torque tube was a huge challenge.
    Dual disc clutch, hydraulic throwout, hybrid pilot bearing and modified scattershield.
    Having a carbon fiber driveshaft built now by Lonnie Gilbertson.

    1957 Ford Thunderbird 2016 02 e.JPG

    Hilborn is converted to EFI.
    The owner didn't like the looks of fuel rails so we built a cover.

    1957 Ford Thunderbird 2016 02 16b.JPG

    The black looking bowtie spot on the front will be polished aluminum with a hole for the top radiator connection. Has a remote thermostat housing under the cover. Stock water pump is now gone and replaced with aluminum tubing. Remote electric pump mounts to the steering rack. Cobra oil pan sectioned for ground clearance.

    1957 Ford Thunderbird 2016 03 116 c.jpg

    Gotta go in tomorrow (my day off) and work on this '56 Lincoln. Going to be in the Portland Rose Festival parade on Saturday but been starving for fuel and died a couple times. I think the pickup tube in the tank or fuel line is clogged. This 'tuna boat' has the longest quarter panels I've ever seen.

    1956 Lincoln Premire 2.jpg
     
    i.rant, Wayne67vert, OahuEli and 2 others like this.
  6. MISTER TWISTER
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 385

    MISTER TWISTER
    Member

    Love your 61 man! Just finished up a 61 bubbletop myself. Dont care what anybody says you got a killer deal on the droptop! Enjoy it!
     
  7. FortMoe
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 40

    FortMoe
    Member

    Just found this thread. Love the '61!! I had a '61 Bel Air Bubble top in the early 80s. I wish I had it back. You got a great deal on the car, even before all the extras. The '61 is a hot car right now and going for a premium.
     
  8. I think part of "going for a premium" is that reproduction parts are scarce for the '61.
    Any other year Impala isn't a problem.
     
  9. FortMoe
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 40

    FortMoe
    Member

    I like to think it's because it was the best looking Impala made. Followed by the '67. ;-)
     
  10. Clevername
    Joined: Feb 18, 2011
    Posts: 318

    Clevername
    Member

    Sigh.
     
  11. Got the progressive linkage built for the Impala's tri-power out of my junk linkage box. Kinda stock looking compared to all the aftermarket stuff offered. Now I gotta rebuild the carbs, switch the top on the rear carb to match the front, plug the idle circuits and remove the choke assembly on the front and rears. I'll cut off the rest of the throttle bellcranks I don't need and straighten out the lower throttle rod to clean it up a little more.

    DSC08612.JPG
    Very happy how it works. Front and rear carbs engage at about 60% throttle.
    The throttle rod connection on the front carb is a slide.
    Has a nut on end of rod which acts as a stop to actuate front and rear carbs.
    DSC08616.JPG
     
  12. ^Nothing like good 'ol boneyard parts to get the job done! This is a great thread to check in on, Mark. You get a lot done.
    Nash Metropolitan drivers could view the entire reflection of their car at once in the Lincoln quarter! Land yacht, that baby needs a foghorn!
     
  13. Took it out for the maiden voyage around the neighborhood last week.
    DSC08630.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016
  14. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,265

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Wow
    Those five spokes are perfect for that car.
     
  15. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,294

    loudbang
    Member

    Sure is good looking now.
     
  16. Looks like this winter I'll be lowering the front a couple inches.
    The rear has air shocks with one or two inches of air now.

    DSC08631.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016
  17. Mrs LowKat and I took Impala on a "top down" ride today. Drove to closest gas station a few miles away. Cruised at highway speed for the first time. Got gas and the F'r wouldn't turn over to start, Open hood, loose wire on solenoid. Wiggled and start. WHEW!.. 16 miles on it today and nothing fell off. Gaining some trust.


    DSC08617 CROP BIG.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016
    loudbang, kidcampbell71 and 41 coupe like this.
  18. Couple weeks ago installed an old VDO tachometer from my parts stash.
    It has a ribbed case that mimics the dash trim.
    Used the old school hose clamp method to attach to the column.

    DSC08642 CROP TACH.jpg

    DSC08647 CROP TACH.jpg

    I gotta keep looking for a proper Sun tach that I can afford.
    Here's what a real one looks like.

    1961 Chevy Impala SS real deal 305HP 17.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016
  19. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 866

    greaser
    Member

    Love this car, Mark...., I'm so jealous!
    Personally, I like the VDO tach better than the Sun.
     
    Blue One likes this.
  20. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,015

    belair
    Member

    my first car was a 61 2 door hard top. love your car.
     
  21. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Love this car!!!
     
  22. oldwood
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,056

    oldwood
    Member
    from arkansas

    A video wouldn't hurt any of our feeling. Those Bumper Titty's always get a man's attention!!!
     
  23. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Looking better all the time.That big ole Lincoln brings to mind the term"Battle Cruiser.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  24. delux68
    Joined: Sep 6, 2012
    Posts: 1

    delux68
    Member
    from SoFla

    I read through your 48 F1 thread and this one, love both! How's the camper coming along, is there a thread on it anywhere? My brother has a 61 4 door Biscayne, do you have or know of any left side rear bumper pieces? His is pretty well bent. By the way, I'm sure you know how you want to lower yours, but he used S10 springs, they were a bit lower than the factory Biscayne ones, but he wanted lower and cut a few coils off.

    [​IMG]
     
  25. HRK-hotrods
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 922

    HRK-hotrods
    Member

    You bought that at a good price. Nice car and one of my favorite years...
     
  26. scrubby2009
    Joined: Jan 9, 2011
    Posts: 204

    scrubby2009
    Member

    Very nice. My first road-driven car was a $100 '61 Bel Air hardtop with a 235/3spd. Bought in 1986, totalled in '87!
     
  27. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

    Very interested in this build, I'm trying to sort out tripower linkage for my 348 in my 40, first time playing with this kind of stuff, no box full of old parts, its not proving that easy for me. My carbs have been rebuilt, and seem to be the right carbs for a 61 W motor. One thing I also want to do is remove the choke on the center carb, just to help with the linkage, could you do a little post on that, what bits you remove, holes you bung, and how, would be great.
     

    Attached Files:

    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  28. Neil, ask over on the 348-409 site as there are many tri power guys over there that can give you the specs and help if
    someone here does not respond. I have everything in the garage but I am in FL basking in the sun!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  29. vtwhead is correct, the 348/409 site is a good place for tri-power info: http://www.348-409.com/

    I haven't finished mine yet. The main thing to get a tri-power working correct is make sure there's no air sucking past the throttle blades on the front and rear carbs when they're not engaged. If you hold each end carb up to a light with the throttle blades closed and you see light, you're going to have problems.

    Real tri-power end carbs have much thicker throttle blades than ordinary carbs so they seal better and also have extended throttle shafts on the passenger side. That's where the factory linkage connects the front and rear carbs together. I'm using junkyard carbs and after much reading decided to use "Vintage Speed" throttle body bases for mine which are made to convert normal carbs.

    z tri power 01a.jpg

    As far as linkage, there's ready made stuff from Speedway, Jeg's, Edelbrock and others but I don't like the modern look with alloy throttle arms and heim joint ends. I think you can get some of the tri-power reproduction linkage rods at Show Cars: http://www.dr409.com/

    Here's factory linkage for a 1961. Notice the vacuum diaphragm on the front carb.

    zz 1961 Chevy 348 350hp.jpg

    zz 1961 Chevy 348 350hp a.jpg

    You may want to think twice before eliminating the choke depending on how long you want to wait for warm-up. Real tri-power has choke only on the center carb. On mine, I'm retaining the hot air choke on the center but removed the choke plates and shafts from front and rear. The holes from the choke plate need plugged. I threaded mine, installed a bolt, then cut it flush to the carb body.

    Been working on my '31 Buick getting it put back together to sell so haven't been doing much Impala stuff. Almost have everything collected for the 4 speed conversion but still need this clutch fork reasonably priced. It's for 55-57 Chevy car and 55-62 Corvette.

    zz 1961 clutch stuff 2.JPG

    Last time I drove the Impala, the heater core puked and of course it's the only year Impala that's not reproduced. Figured out a '64 Caddy core is the same size but still need to get my tanks soldered on.

    0 DSC06785.JPG
     
    loudbang likes this.
  30. I would install Kool Carb insulators under those carbs. Will save you some headaches with heat soak especially with the aluminum Speedway bases.
     
    loudbang likes this.

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