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Technical '52 Flathead

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by CornDog05, Jun 9, 2016.

  1. CornDog05
    Joined: Aug 9, 2009
    Posts: 16

    CornDog05
    Member

    I have a '28 Model A Special Coupe that I plan to build into an early 50s era rod. I put some feelers out there for a flathead V8 and a friend contacted me about a complete take out engine/trans from a '52 Ford car. I have only just recently started researching all the different versions of flatheads that were built throughout the years. Assuming that this is the original drivetrain for the car, would this be a good flathead to get... and if so, what price range should I be looking at? The car was purchased, driven a couple hours to where it is now... parked, and they removed the drivetrain to replace it with a SBC and later model front clip.

    If I decide to get it, I am looking at a 10hr trip each way (no fun) . I'm planning to keep the Model A's build as cheap as possible... so I'll probably just freshen up the engine a little and drop it in. Thanks for the advice!

    -Justin
     
  2. steinauge
    Joined: Feb 28, 2014
    Posts: 1,507

    steinauge
    Member
    from 1960

    Unless you can hear the engine run I wouldnt pay much over core price .For me that would be in the 300 dollar range for the whole pile.How has it been stored? If it has been in a nice dry garage it may well be worth fixing,if its been outside not so much.More info would be good.
     
  3. CornDog05
    Joined: Aug 9, 2009
    Posts: 16

    CornDog05
    Member

    He will be visiting his family in the next couple weeks, who own the car and engine, and will be able to get more information along with some pictures of the setup. He said that it in in their garage next to the car on an engine stand.

    -Justin
     
  4. Yes, if you don't hear it run, with coolant in it, think twice. Especially a 10 hr trip. Being in the area your in, you should be able to find something a lot closer. I watch the classifieds here on the Hamb, check with other Hambers. watch CL, you never know what may come along. Tim
     

  5. King Callie
    Joined: Jul 26, 2012
    Posts: 59

    King Callie
    Member
    from Virginia

    ideally this is a great engine for your build. 52 would be an 8BA and features the largest bore for the flatly as well as insert bearings. The 8ba can also be modded to use earlier cylinder heads that a lot of people feel look more "early hot rod" these are great engines but they are prone to heat cracks. Never know what you are going to find-even with a running one. I love them and say go for it. They are not cheap! If you want to mod it, have checkbook ready. even if it is running I would try to get in it cheap 500 to 1000 tops. I bought a bare block for 150 and built it out with all the best and have about 8k in it now. Read up on them, plenty of good books out there. I am biased and have "the sickness" Flatheads Forever!
     
  6. CornDog05
    Joined: Aug 9, 2009
    Posts: 16

    CornDog05
    Member

    I really love the look and the nostalgic history behind the flathead V8s in early Hot Rods, but I'm really open to anything. I also know of a mid-late 50's Chrysler Industrial Hemi that is here local. It was sold to another friend of mine as a 392 but I will not know for sure until I look it over a little better. If I go that route then I'll build the car as a late 50s era Rod. I know that I could easily go with a SBC and make it period correct... and I know that it was a very common thing to do and very popular choice in the 50s, but it just kind of seems like an easy route. I would rather have something a little more unique. Thanks for the advice!!

    -Justin
     
  7. King Callie
    Joined: Jul 26, 2012
    Posts: 59

    King Callie
    Member
    from Virginia

    I get it. When I built my flathead I had intended to put it in a 31 p/u that I had parts for. Once I invested the money in the motor I wasn't as interested in the truck idea. So I sold it and bought 32 chassis parts. Long story short, I'm still parts collecting and the guy who bought the p/u stuff is driving the hell out of it with a nice little SBC. Food for thought...one of these days I'll have a sweet little flathead powered roadster.
     
  8. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,956

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Check the numbers on the hemi; there is a lot of information on the net that will allow you to figure out what it really is. I don't think they made industrial (or truck) hemis as 392's. There were a few 354's, but most were 331's (like my '56 truck unit). I know truck hemi's have significant difference from car engines, i.e different heads and timing covers. The industrial engines probably have the same differences.
     
  9. CornDog05
    Joined: Aug 9, 2009
    Posts: 16

    CornDog05
    Member

    It is about 1.5hr away, so when I get up that way, I'll be sure to get numbers. I have been reading up on the early Hemis as well.
     

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  10. 53 ford
    Joined: Apr 8, 2012
    Posts: 144

    53 ford
    Member

    If you are planning a cheap as possible build forget about the flathead. A flathead will snowball faster than you can imagine. Just because it runs doesn't mean a thing.
     
  11. Bader2
    Joined: May 19, 2014
    Posts: 1,143

    Bader2

    I bought a running,rebuilt,8ba attached to a two ton 49 ford. 400$,ran great. Put it in my 29 coupe.Still does 15000 miles later. Dont believe what everyone says. Take a chance. You may be surprised.
     
  12. Bader2
    Joined: May 19, 2014
    Posts: 1,143

    Bader2

    [​IMG]also a special coupe.
     
    Like'em all, 32owner and clunker like this.
  13. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 3,968

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    Don't pay anything more than $500 tops for the motor and trans if it is running. Hear it run. Look for smoke color. It's probably going to smoke any way. Pull the heads on the spot to look for the cracks. It'll take about 10 minutes per head. There are good cracks and bad cracks. Take a chance on it if it smokes. A ring job is easy to do and sticky valves are an easy fix.

    If you are worried about compression then take a compression gauge with you. 10 hours is a long drive. If you do it, make it worth your while.

    These are good and easy motors to work on.
     
  14. Fred A
    Joined: May 3, 2005
    Posts: 290

    Fred A
    Member
    from Encino, CA
    1. Upholstery

    Buying a flathead engine is a tough market cause there are so many old boys trying to sell you their rejects. The pushback in the market is that buyers end up not buying good ones thinking the worst. I had a couple of 8BAs that went from event to event at $300 and not sold. Now torn down to the bare block and pressure washed where they can be visually inspected and appear quite good, the comments are that buyers are looking for complete engines. Next week is the fathers day roadster show and it is not clear if that demographic in the family mode is worth another try.

    Looks like the OP is taking a tough road with a flathead if money is tight. Other engine choices can be worlds cheaper and performance winners. Not real good at taking my own advice, mired in three projects, a Cragar B, V8-60, and a 59A/'40 coupe. Should not have sold those 327s! Good Luck: Fred A
     
  15. I think that the advice about core price on a motor that you really don't know about is good advice. I look at everything as though it needs to be rebuilt and if it doesn't then I am pleasantly surprised. Now this only comes from nearly 50 years of playing cars and bikes. Actually more if you consider the fact that I was born into a cars and bikes family.

    As for good candidate for freshening and using a '52 ford is good. I would personally prefer a '52 merc but the Ford is good. The Ford had a good 3 speed OD in the early '50s and if you get lucky and get one you are almost there then it is just a matter of finding a column with a shifter and you are golden.
     
  16. 53 ford
    Joined: Apr 8, 2012
    Posts: 144

    53 ford
    Member

    Now the snowball starts rolling. You buy the motor and transmission, now you need a shifter, a place to hang a clutch pedal, brake pedal. Redo motor mounts. Are you getting a truck bell housing for the rear mount or using a transmission mount? You need to redo the torque tube. Now you need to split the wishbone because it doesn't have a mount. I'm not trying to discourage you, I'm all for it. Just don't expect to do it on the cheap. Harley
     
  17. Uh that's hot rod 101, isn't it. ;)
     

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