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Chevy Idler Arm Repair Kit, Pull the Engine?!?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blown240, Jun 3, 2009.

  1. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    I have heard that you have to pull the engine to rebuild the idler or third arm on a 51 Chevy. Is that true? I sure hope not, since I need to rebuild mine, but dont have what it takes to pull the motor.

    The rebuild kit os only $30, but if I have to pull the motor, then I dont know what I am going to do.
     
  2. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,850

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    I'd go look myself, but I don't know where you live.:D
     
  3. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    I live right here, at my house. Now get down here!
     
  4. John Denich
    Joined: Nov 20, 2005
    Posts: 2,718

    John Denich

    No I did mine with the engine still in! I have an SBC!!! but should be the same!
     

  5. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    how much of a pain was it? Did it help much?
     
  6. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,850

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    ok now my brain is warmed up.

    I did a idler arm no problem in my V8 powered 49. as I recall when I parted a 52 that still had the 6.. the idler arm is right there, the bolts are under the oil pan. I'm thinking you have to raise the motor, maybe not pull it out all the way.

    look it up in your manual. who's got the web address for the online manual thing?
     
  7. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,850

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    is a 51 side mounts? front mounts have to mke it worse
     
  8. No. You do not have to pull the motor. The whole job shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. You will have to have the bushings reamed though. Any decent machine shop can do it.
     
  9. cretin
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 3,066

    cretin
    Member

  10. oilslinger53
    Joined: Apr 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,500

    oilslinger53
    Member
    from covina CA

    no, just remove the tie rod and drag link, and the link that goes from the pitman arm to the steering idler arm.then take out the two small bolts on the bottom,and the large bolt on top, . I just did it the other day. it took an hour.
     
  11. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Front Mounts
     
  12. fiftyfiveford
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 668

    fiftyfiveford
    Member

    nope like above, I did my 51 with the 235 and front mounts without lifting the motor, the big bolt on top of the crossmember is tight but you should be able to get to it with a wrench.
     
  13. Thewanderers
    Joined: Aug 4, 2013
    Posts: 40

    Thewanderers
    Member
    from Australia

    So do you definitely have to get bushings reamed?

    Sent from my HTC_0P6B6 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  14. gas pumper
    Joined: Aug 13, 2007
    Posts: 2,957

    gas pumper
    Member

    Yes. Although I bored mine in a Bridgeport mill. Didn't have the proper size reamer at the time.
     
  15. Dave Downs
    Joined: Oct 25, 2005
    Posts: 935

    Dave Downs
    Member
    from S.E. Penna

    As mentioned, the big bolt on the top is a real pain - even harder to put back in; be very careful not to cross-thread it.
     

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